Homespun by Matt: A culinary adventure celebrating the theatre of food
Share this article:
“Homespun by Matt” says the unassuming sign on a busy Blouberg road where other pubs and restaurants are competing to get the most notice.
But the minute I walk inside, I am transported to another world, an enchanted fairytale of sorts. If there was one way to describe it, think of it as Maleficent hosting a dinner party.
It’s testament to chef Matthew Schreuder’s whimsical imagination that knows no bounds, and the result is a fine dining restaurant experience that is meant to be tried at least once in your life.
Schreuder is passionate about food. There’s no doubt about that. But what he has done is taken his experience of modern fusion cuisine and incorporated it with other senses like sound and smell.
Tonight I’m experiencing his Secret Supper Club - a 15-course meal that celebrates the theatrical element of food. And it’s not just about the food. It’s about taste, texture, music and memories.
Before introducing us to the tasting menu, Schreuder enthusiastically explained that each dish on the menu conjured up a specific memory for him, making it a very personal curated affair.
The musical element is quite interesting. Think of it as each dish having their own soundtrack. Previously music was seen as background noise when eating out; it’s not something you think about while feasting on a juicy steak. But in this case, a specific song elevates the taste of a dish to new heights. It might sound nonsensical and pretentious, but believe me, it really does the trick.
It’s clear that Schreuder’s creativity goes beyond the kitchen. Each dish on the menu is named with ambiguity and a playfulness that I’m sure is not lost on diners. With dishes like Pot plant, Life is a picture and Ons gaan nou braai, you’ll think you’ll know exactly what you’re in for until it’s right in front of you.
And I’m sure that’s what Schreuder had in mind when curating the menu.
My favourite dishes of the evening were Onion (course 2) and Fish & chips (course 6).
Yes, it looks like a real onion, but open it for a surprise. Inside the onion is an onion emulsion, onion marmalade, onion ash and smoked paprika with a small brioche.
Guests are given small candles on the table. But these aren’t ordinary candles - they’re boerewors and wagyu fat meant to be poured into the other half of the onion. The taste is indescribable. One would think the wagyu fat would overpower the dish, but it serves to complement the luxuriously velvety waves that engulfs you from the first bite.
Fish & chips is hake, potatoes made different ways - pomme dauphine, molecular chips - gnocchi and purée as well as a lemon parsley emulsion and vinegar gel. After eating this, you will never look at fish and chips the same way again.
I’m not a fan of fine dining restaurants. I sometimes find them pretentious, with their food lacking in flavour. Some tend to go overboard on plating, forgetting that the proof is in the taste.
But what Schreuder has done is take a concept and literally turn it upside down by thinking outside of the box. He’s also made his restaurant more accessible, being in the Blouberg area. The Secret Supper Club is a concept that has obviously been well thought out. If there’s one experience that you splurge on this year, let this be it.
- “Homespun by Matt” is running an opening special for the rest of 2020, starting at R1 150 per head. Thereafter, R1 595
- The wine pairing is R395 extra
- The Secret Supper Club operates on Mondays (7pm - 10:30pm)
- 3C Porterfield Road, 7441, Table View, Cape Town
Booking is essential: www.homespunbymatt.co.za/contact