The Michelin guide has allowed a top restaurant to bow out of its listings because the head chef no longer wants a three-star rating.
Le Suquet restaurant in the Aveyron region of France has held the maximum score from the gastro bible for 18 years.But Sebastien Bras wants to start a new chapter' in its history without the pressure of being judged in secret.
It is the first time the guide has allowed a restaurant to withdraw, and Le Suquet will not feature in the 2018 edition, to be published on Monday.
Bras, 46, said: You're inspected two or three times a year, you never know when. Every meal that goes out could be inspected. That means that every day one of the 500 meals that leaves the kitchen could be judged. Maybe I will be less famous but I accept that.'
Describing his cuisine as intuitive and precise' it is also seriously expensive with menus from £127 to £201 a head.