What do chefs eat for comfort food?

Guest Chef July 2015, Luke Dale-Roberts, Martin Klein trip, Cape Town, South Africa on June 17, 2015 // Nick Muzik/Red Bull Content Pool // P-20150625-00097 // Usage for editorial use only // Please go to www.redbullcontentpool.com for further information. // Picture Helge Kirchberger Photography Reporter Bianca Coleman

Guest Chef July 2015, Luke Dale-Roberts, Martin Klein trip, Cape Town, South Africa on June 17, 2015 // Nick Muzik/Red Bull Content Pool // P-20150625-00097 // Usage for editorial use only // Please go to www.redbullcontentpool.com for further information. // Picture Helge Kirchberger Photography Reporter Bianca Coleman

Published Jan 6, 2016

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Washington - What do chefs eat when they're off-duty? The Washington Post asked some famous restaurateurs about the comfort foods they love returning to - while IOL did a little local research.

 

Luke Dale-Roberts

The Test Kitchen, Cape Town

Growing up, the comfort food was my mom's shepherd's pie. She would mince up the leftover lamb and there's be lots of Worcerster sauce. Today, there's nothing like a bowl of shepherd's pie before starting work. My wife makes it for me - the most comforting food is the food that someone else make for you. And for a hangover, there's nothing like a wild mushroom risotto. -IOL

 

José Andrés,

Minibar and Jaleo, Washington

For me, it's huevos a la cubana (fried eggs over rice, with tomato sauce) and croquetas. Croquetas are end-of-the-month food for me. At the beginning of the week or the month, my mom would go to the market and buy meat and chicken. But at the end, when there wasn't money for more, you would just take what was left in the refrigerator - the scraps of leftover meat, a little milk and butter for a bechamel, some crumbs from stale bread - and make something delicious.

 

Dominque Crenn

Atelier Crenn, San Francisco

I love making a grilled cheese sandwich “my style” - I use brioche, Brittany butter, heirloom tomato compote, Comté cheese and smoked avocado. And I serve it with a beautiful tomato soup.

 

René Redzepi

Noma, Copenhagen

For me, roast chicken is one of the greatest comfort foods. I remember the anticipation I had as a kid in Macedonia, watching the chicken cook... as the skin turned crispy and golden brown. Today my mouth still waters at the thought. We don't have a wood-fired oven like my family did in Macedonia, but my wife and I still prepare it for our family, rubbed in oil and salt, and stuffed with citrus.

 

Enrique Olvera

Pujol, Mexico City, and Cosme, New York

I really like chicken soup, made with mint, cilantro, carrots, zucchini, potatoes, rice, avocado and a lot of lime. I like it with tortillas on the side.

 

Sean Brock

McCrady's, Charleston

I grew up eating chicken and dumplings from my grandmother's kitchen and now from my mother's. The dish couldn't be simpler. It has a total of five ingredients: water, a chicken, butter, flour and buttermilk. That's the great thing about comfort food - you take nothing and make something extraordinary.

 

Christina Tosi

Momofuku Milk Bar, New York, Washington and Toronto

I'm obviously big on comfort food, whether as a jumping-off point for inspiration for something new in the Milk Bar kitchen, or soothing the soul with family or friends. My favourites come from the recipes I was raised on: cornbake, my aunt's country bread, my grandma's oatmeal cookies, cocktail meatballs.... It's the only food I knew to cook, bake and eat (aside from cereal, pizza, Chinese food and McDonald's) until I set out on my own at 18.

 

Daniel Patterson

Coi, San Francisco, and LocoL, Los Angeles

My favourite comfort food is rice - it's the flavour and texture, and the fact that it's the base for a delicious sauce or broth. But I think it's also because I associate it with family meals at the restaurant, which are happy memories.

 

Ben Shewry

Attica, Melbourne, Australia

I'm the self-proclaimed fried-rice connoisseur. Fried rice was a favourite that I shared often as a child with my late Grandmother Elaine, and I've travelled to the ends of the Earth for the perfect bowl of it. (I'm still searching.) I've also spent more than a decade over a wok attempting to perfect it myself, only to come up very short. But pretty much every bowl I've eaten is comforting. The rice must be cooked fresh on the day (not leftover) so it still retains its full fragrance, and it should be very simple. Just a little egg and a little spring onion.

 

Dan Barber

Blue Hill at Stone Barns, New York

I've never understood the idea of comfort food. What does it mean? Why are magazines always bragging about a “return to comfort food”? And why is the picture of comfort food invariably soft food - stews, purees or creamy things that make you think baby food? I don't find it comforting, because it doesn't make me hungry.

 

Grant Achatz

Alinea, Chicago

When I get home late after a long day and want something easy and tasty, I usually boil some pasta and do a quick mushroom butter and Parmesan. I also love pizza, soft scrambled eggs with whole-wheat toast, and lastly and maybe most out there: instant ramen.

 

Nora Pouillon

Restaurant Nora, Washington

For me, comfort food is different depending on the season. When it starts to get cold, I like soups. It can be a light soup, like miso soup with lots of vegetables or the Tokyo hotpot with soba noodles, tofu and vegetables, like I do it at the restaurant. Or a heavier soup like a lentil soup or pureed mushroom soup. In the summer, it would be yogurt dishes, gazpacho and salads. And when I feel like I need something really quickly, I love to open a can of Portuguese sardines and eat them with rye bread spread with butter.

 

Erik Bruner-Yang

Toki Undergroundand Maketto, Washington

Taro bubble tea and pizza. For the festive season, though, it's my wife's famous roast turkey and an apple whiskey pecan streusel pie from Frenchie's.

 

David Chang

Momofuku, New York, Washington and Toronto

We're opening another restaurant... and I'm really busy, so right now, comfort food is pretty much whatever I find when I get home and open the refrigerator.

Washington Post

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