By Beth Janes, Jolene Edgar, Hannah Morrill & Mishkah Cooper
We all want to look more natural and be more earth-friendly. But as with everything else, when it comes to beauty, it's a matter of degrees. Whether you're the Al Gore of the cosmetics aisle or you'd be willing to slather on toxic waste if it made a headlight-sized zit disappear, we've found your best natural options.
Can makeup be natural?
"Makeup can come from a natural source," says organic cosmetic founder, Jane Iredale. She recommends makeup made from mineral elements, like gloMinerals, available at selected salons. They don't contain artificial or harmful ingredients, so they're great on sensitive skin. Plus, they protect skin from the sun with a more natural approach, and are inorganic and preservative-free, so bacteria can't live and breed in the makeup.
You'll find mineral makeup in brands you already know - look for mineral foundations, blushers or powders from L'Oreal Paris, Almay and Neutrogena. Bonus: "The pigments are softer and easier to blend," says Collier Strong, L'Oreal Paris consulting makeup artist in New York. Test these benefits with gloMinerals gloBronze Duo in Sunkiss (R319).
I'll try natural stuff, but do I have to go totally organic?
You don't have to limit yourself to the health store. Retailers like Pick 'n Pay and Woolworths stock products packed with organic ingredients that even hard core nature girls would approve of. And with many costing less than R150, you can test-drive natural without making a big commitment. Check labels for ingredients (turn this page for a list).
Pick 'n Pay carries the Enchantrix Range (face and body products ranging from R42 to R150), organic baby food and clothing.
Are any synthetic products good for you?
In beauty, there are still some areas where manmade is better than natural.
Science
Synthetic substances are usually studied and tested by scientists for efficiency and safety. For example, tretinoin, the active ingredient in Retin-A and Renova, is a chemically-modified form of vitamin A that's well researched. "It's also the only topical drug known to treat and prevent skin cancer - and there are no natural alternatives," says Leslie Baumann, professor of dermatology.
"Natural products are generally safe to use cosmetically, but smaller companies often have smaller budgets and therefore lack the high-priced scientific testing done by major cosmetics houses," explains Wilma Bergfield, head of clinical research and dermatopathology.
Irritants
"The majority of natural cosmetic products are loaded with essential oils, which can be allergenic," says Leslie. Some examples: chamomile, rosemary and mint are all common skin irritants, while lemon oil and oil of bergamot can cause sun sensitivity. Test on a small patch of skin first.
Freshness
Without preservatives - or less powerful, non-synthetic ones - natural and organic products may degrade more quickly.
What ingredients should I avoid?
The bad boys below are as welcome in natural items as steak at a vegan dinner. Learn what to serve your skin instead.
- Sulfates
Sodium lauryl and laureth sulfates can be irritating cleansers. These chemical cocktails are used in the cleaning industry as engine degreasers and garage floor cleansers.
Alternatives: Saponified plant oils and decyl glucoside (made from fatty natural oils). Thanks to the oils and no chemical processing, these cleansers wash without stripping and leave skin more moisturised, says Celeste Lutrario, director of research and development for Burt's Bees. TRY Trevarno Organic Rose & Jojoba Cleansing Gel (R269,99).
- Petroleum derivatives
Mineral oils and petrolatum are made by combining hydrocarbons (ie paraffin) to create greasing and water-repellent substances used as moisturisers and product thickeners.
Alternatives: Jojoba or other plant oils, vegetable glycerin and beeswax. Plant oils contain fatty acids, which help nourish your skin's barrier better, says holistic dermatologist Dr Alan Dattnerm. They also contain skin-loving vitamins and minerals. We love Dr Hauschka Rose Day Cream Light (R296), available from Woolworths.
- Parabens
Any ingredient that ends in -paraben is a chemical preservative. Although further testing is still being done, these have a tendency to disrupt hormone signalling, which can affect your body's ability to function efficiently.
Alternatives: There are several options for thwarting mould, yeast and bacteria, so look out for these: lactoperoxidase, which is found in raw cow's milk, or glucose oxidase, which is derived from a naturally occurring fungi that soak up the oxygen that bacteria use to live and grow.
Antioxidants such as grapefruit, grapeseed and rosemary extracts help by slowing down oxidation, which can spoil a product. We love Miessence Clarifying Hair Rinse (R106,02).