London - Cleanse, tone and moisturise is a mantra for millions of women, sold by the beauty industry as a sure-fire way to fresh, glowing skin.
But while the benefits of cleansing and moisturising are obvious, part of the routine is simply habit for many women - and few question its benefits: toning.
Toning is meant to remove the last traces of dirt and grime, leaving skin dewy and pores closed. According to market intelligence firm Mintel, one in five of us uses toners daily - which range in price from £1.32 for Simple’s to £110 for Kanebo Cosmetics’ Sensai Hydrachange Essence.
Astoundingly, this means toners are more popular than anti-ageing serums (used by 13 percent) and acne products (three percent).
But many women who religiously apply this classic skin care product don’t realise toners can include harsh ingredients such as alcohol, which can dry out even the most oily skin, and parabens, which have been shown to induce allergic reactions.
“The alcohol found in toners can be a trigger for rosacea, increase the risk of breakouts in acne-prone skin or exacerbate sensitivity,” reveals cosmetic dermatologist Dr Sam Bunting. This means that regular use of toners could leave the skin irritated, inflamed and vulnerable to environmental damage.
Dr Bunting believes that even if your toner doesn’t harm your skin, its place in your beauty regime may be redundant.
“Soap used to leave behind residues, but today’s cleansers are designed to rinse clean and don’t disturb the skin’s natural equilibrium in the same way, so there’s no need to use a toner.”
In fact, in the Forties the US Food And Drug Administration disallowed many of the claims made for skin toners in America and said no astringent could improve skin elasticity or close pores. But elsewhere, the idea that they “tightened pores” and “stimulated circulation” persisted.
London-based consultant nurse practitioner of Plastic Surgery Associates UK, Constance Campion, agrees: “Although toners momentarily appear to make the skin seem cleaner and tighter, for the most part they are an expensive soup of water, colours, preservatives, alcohol and acids.
“Most toners actually do more harm than good because they disrupt the delicate balance of the skin, which can lead to symptoms such as dry, oily and cracked skin. This can increase the growth of bacteria, risking further breakouts in all skin types.”
So is every toner a waste of money? Not necessarily. “Some modern toners contain skin-calming ingredients like plant oils and aloe vera, and can even be made with salicylic acid, which has a positive impact in skin rejuvenation,” says cosmetic doctor Dr Dan Dhunna.
He recommends SkinMedica Purifying Toner (£19.50, effortlessskin.com), Obagi Nu-Derm Toner (£32, facethefuture.co.uk) and SkinCeuticals Equalizing Toner (£25.18, effortlessskin.com).
“These can also break up the glue between epidermal skin cells, allowing the dead skin cells to be exfoliated off, which brings fresh skin cells to the surface, leading to a brighter complexion.”
Campion also advocates the use of new skin care products with toning properties.
“Advanced alternative solutions known as balancers and skin conditioners contain far more effective, friendly ingredients such as antioxidants that promote skin health,” she reveals.
Her favourites include Société Conditioning Prep Solution (£35, shopfacialgarden.com) and Osmosis Clear Skin Conditioner.
So if want to rejuvenate your skin with a toner, skip solutions with high alcohol content and choose calming, balancing lotions with effective ingredients.
Or you could be splashing your cash on a product that’s no more effective than cold water. - Daily Mail