PARIS — Guests including Katie Holmes and Kate Bosworth were taken deep inside the inner workings of Christian Dior for the French brand's nostalgic couture display that celebrated the artistry of the atelier.
Hundreds of retro busts and mannequins in unfinished-looking white gowns flanked the runway walls — from floor to ceiling — inside Paris' Rodin Museum as designs showcased the pared-down finesse of age-old couture.
Here are some highlights of the fall-winter collections shown Monday.
There was an old-school vibe in the perfumed air of Dior: 1950s' berets, veils and costume jewelry filed by in its Paris show.
Thick fabrics reminiscent of post-World War II styles were used evocatively in a midnight blue cape coat and a three-piece ensemble with a fringed spiral-sleeve bolero.
The sheer restraint of the palette of powdery shades against nudes also harked back to a time, before the proliferation of bright colors in the 1960s, where designers still preferred subtle hues.
This season, the program notes said "(designer) Maria Grazia Chiuri goes back to the fundamentals."
It made for a beautifully executed couture collection of 71 looks — but one that seemed to lack energy and avoided any huge creative leaps.
Still, there was plenty of beauty.
A raspberry double-face silk scuba bustier dress was sewn from just a single piece of fabric.
Chiuri developed silhouettes based on the batwing sleeve from the Bar Jacket — the centerpiece of Dior's iconic 1947 "New Look" that revolutionized post-War fashion.