Enter fashion in the fast lane

Published Oct 29, 2014

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Cape Town - Fresh out of college and fresh on the runway is the aim of Fastrack, a project that has helped a young Cape Town fashion designer and others to showcase their collections alongside established industry names.

At the inner-city studio of established – and sometimes controversial – designer Gavin Rajah, recent graduate Jessica Ross from Bergvliet reflected on the past few months that she has participated in Fastrack.

The programme is run by African Fashion International, the fashion events company owned by Precious Moloi-Motsepe, who is married to one of South Africa’s wealthiest men, mining billionaire Patrice Motsepe.

Fastrack calls each year on final-year fashion design students to enter their graduate collections for inclusion in one of its fashion weeks the following year.

Ross was studying at the Cape Town College of Fashion Design when she entered last year. She was shortlisted to earlier this year to participate with 10 other student finalists in Johannesburg fashion week.

Ross was then among four young designers selected for the next round of the annual contest that aims to nurture new talent.

The four young designers – including Naazneen Kagee, Rich Mnisi and Tuelo Nguyuza – were placed with established designers to do a three-month internship.

On the closing day of next week’s Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Africa, in Joburg, one designer will be selected as the young designer of the year.

Ross said the run-up to the November 1 show had been demanding as she had spent the past few months assisting Rajah in his studio, working on the collection for next week and learning the business of fashion.

“I helped Gavin with his Cape Town fashion week show. And I’ve had to do an eight-piece collection in a month-and-a-half,” says Ross.

The four young designers were briefed to design a futuristic collection and had theme options to choose from. Ross chose From Russia With Love, as “my mother’s family is from Russia”.

“I had to find a subtle way to follow this futuristic brief. I’m not a very quirky designer and don’t make out-there garments.

“I followed the architecture of Russian Orthodox churches. They have cream and gold churches. I’m using those colours and it makes everything look expensive. It’s very luxurious.

“I’ve added volume – there’s a lot of dramatic volume and layering. I’ve got dresses with skirts underneath.”

Working at Rajah’s studio while putting together her collection had been a “big jump from college to being in the industry”.

“I still have a lot to learn and it’s a lot of hard work. At college, I was used to doing everything myself. I was cutting out the patterns and sewing the fabric. In the real world, you work in teams.

“Now I only do my patterns and then a seamstress sews it up for me. I had to learn how to communicate with a seamstress so that she understands what I need.

“I enjoy sewing and wish I could sew my own stuff. But there was no time. I’m also a perfectionist and get stressed and OCD (obsessive compulsive disorder) about it and will unpick everything and sew it again.”

Working with Rajah taught her “a lot about fabric textures and what works with what”.

“But I still want to learn more about running a successful fashion business. I don’t know enough yet. I am budgeting by myself and can see how things work.

“I need to go out into the work world and learn more so that I have the tools and knowledge to start my own business.”

So far the exposure to real world opportunities has been beneficial.

 

“I graduated and three months later had a show at fashion week. The industry and media gets to know you that way. Everything has also been funded. This definitely fast tracks your career.”

 

Heavyweights add some guru gravitas

While up-and-coming talents feature at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Africa, established industry favourites will probably claim headlines with their latest creations.

The four-day event runs at Melrose Arch, Joburg, from October 29 to November 1.

Designers from Cameroon, Kenya, Mozambique Rwanda, South Africa and Zimbabwe start the event on Wednesday night. For the rest of the week the focus falls on designers from Ghana, Nigeria, South Africa and Tanzania.

South African mainstays Marianne Fassler and David Tlale add gravitas to the event with their record of local and international experience.

Tlale’s 40-piece collection is a “celebration of a woman who is not afraid to show her soft, feminine side and yet still dares to be bold and command attention”.

The designer said the mood for his collection was “happy women”.

“When you think of the colour peach and its hues, an image of spring and summer pops up and it is often associated with happiness and love, which is what summer is about.”

Tlale was named designer of the year at the Arise Africa Fashion Week Awards 2009.

That same year, Mozambican designer Taibo Bacar showed locals his women’s wear brand for the first time. Just last month, the Italian edition of fashion magazine Vogue listed him as an international emerging designer.

Bacar will next week present A Luta Continua (The Fight Goes On), a “collection inspired by the present situation of Mozambique”.

“It represents continuity, evolution, development, and the future. This innovative line merges haute couture and ready-to-wear. Handmade details and embroidery feature prominently, lending luxury and attention to detail to garments,” said the designer.

 

 

 

Menswear will dominate the ramp at fashion week

Seven of Africa’s leading gentlemen’s fashion labels are set to give the continent a preview of the coming season’s menswear trends when they showcase their latest collections at this year’s Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Africa at Melrose Arch, Joburg, from October 29 to November 1.

Organiser African Fashion International has announced that this line-up will include Mai Atafo Inspired (Nigeria); MaXhosa by Laduma & Carducci Man (South Africa), Sheria Ngowi (Tanzania), LaurenceAirline (Côte d’Ivoire), Mille Collines (Rwanda), and KikoRomeo (Kenya).

The global menswear market is expected to exceed $402 billion (R4.4 trillion) this year, signifying the need for a strong menswear presence at Fashion Week Africa .

Bringing West Africa to the ramp will be bespoke men’s clothing brand, Mai Atafo Inspired (MAI), and Ivorian label known for its creative contemporary men’s garments, LaurenceAirline. The former, multi-award-winning label will showcase a menswear collection entitled Jungle Gentleman, MAI’s representation of an African gentleman with a global perspective. LaurenceAirline’s collection will pay homage to the African continent’s heritage with a fresh, modern feel.

Representing South Africa are current international knitwear sensation, MaXhosa by Laduma, and top established men’s designer brand, Carducci Man. As part of its MaXhosa range, Laduma will present a collection named “Camagu: Siyavuma”, which celebrates gratitude. This ladies’ and menswear line will combine signature patterns and colours from past collections and introduce new elements. Carducci Man’s Fashion Week Africa collection will bring a fresh feel into its classical aesthetic this year.

The designers representing East Africa will include specialist in bespoke suits, Sheria Ngowi, popular purveyor of on-trend menswear designs, Mille Collines, and Africa-inspired, ready-to-wear men’s and ladies’ label, KikoRomeo. – Staff Reporter

Weekend Argus, Pretoria News

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