Lindsay Ord
Durban - From the world-renowned Madiba shirts to fashion ranges and iconic fabric prints, Nelson Mandela’s fashion legacy has been considerable, say fashion experts.
Ephraim Molingoana, the designer behind the Ephymol label, said Mandela was not just a world icon, he was a fashion icon as well.
“He was an impeccable dresser, even before he went to jail,” said Molingoana.
“He wore suits beautifully and when he started dressing in a more relaxed way, the whole world caught the trend. People in other countries adopted his style – he became a trendsetter.”
Lucilla Booyzen, director of SA Fashion Week, said Mandela changed the dress code for men in South Africa.
“It gave men the right to wear a shirt without a tie, without being seen as trendy or super-fashionable.”
His colourful Madiba shirts enjoyed a global stage as news media beamed pictures of him with world leaders, celebrities and sports stars.
Mandela was introduced to the garment when he was given a shirt by president Suharto of Indonesia in October 1990. The fabric was batik and decorative, in natural fibres. It inspired him to seek more and two designers, Desre Buirski and Sonwabile Ndamase, are among those who went on to design the famous shirts for Mandela.
Buirski, a shirt maker for more than 30 years, said she had given Mandela his first shirt in May 1994, which he wore to the dress rehearsal for the opening of the first democratic Parliament. She went on design 150 silk shirts for him, working out of Indonesia, all handmade by craftsmen.
“The shirts were batiked, handpainted and handcrafted, one of a kind. A shirt could take three weeks to a month to create and there are few places in the world that can match this kind of detail and craft. I gave them to him as gifts and I got to know him very well over the years.
“At his inauguration he received fabric as gifts from presidents of India, the Philippines and Egypt and he gave them to me to turn into shirts.
“I was invited to many presidential banquets, including those for Bill and Hillary Clinton, the king and queen of Spain, the president of Portugal and Fidel Castro of Cuba. He would introduce me as his shirt designer. I still cannot believe that this great statesman was such a big part of my life. What an honour it has been.”
Sonwabile Ndamase, who heads up Vukani Fashions, also designed for Mandela. He had been designing for Winnie Madikizela-Mandela and was close to the family before Mandela was released from prison.
“When Mandela was released, I was introduced to him by Winnie,” said Ndamase. “
He asked me to design something for him. I didn’t come up with the shirt automatically though. I set about creating an array of suits and other kinds of more ‘statesman-like’ attire for him. The second time I met him I was informed of his health. Tata’s lung illness meant I would have to design something that was not too heavy, yet still dignified, that he could wear in formal meetings at top government level. I then designed a shirt made from limited edition African-inspired prints to be worn over slacks, something stylish without being stifling. Madiba shirts are never casual – they are always buttoned to the top and well pressed.
“Today I am humbled that the shirts are imitated elsewhere on the continent and the world over and have even found their place in the local Oxford Dictionary.”
Booyzen said Mandela understood the importance of fashion. She remembered Mandela at the Frock and Roll fund-raiser for the Nelson Mandela Children’s Fund in Cape Town in 1998 which featured 21 top models including Naomi Campbell, Christie Turlington, Alek Wek and Mia Farrow.
“He met every model and spoke to them. When he spoke to you, he touched you for life – and he conversed with me in Afrikaans.”
Shaldon Kopman of Naked Ape menswear said it was good that he did not conform to Western attire.
“He was able to express his charisma and the lighter side of him through the colourful prints of the shirts. His personality shone through in those shirts.
“Naked Ape did a tribute to the great man that featured Mandela smiles printed on shirts.”
Another spin-off was the 46664 fashion brand, launched at SA Fashion Week in 2011 and renamed 466/64 to reflect Mandela’s prison card. It generates funds for the Nelson Mandela Foundation.
Wayne Bebb, chief executive of Brand ID, the global custodians of the 466/64 Fashion, said they had entered into an agreement with the Foundation to create a partnership that could generate sustainable funds towards its social projects.
“We wanted to create a brand that could compete around the world with world class products and the unique touches that could only be found in Africa,” Bebb said.
“We’ve always had a vision to create the first truly global fashion brand born in Africa and we have signed partners around the world who are working hard to bring the brands to their markets next year, including the UK, Brazil, USA, Holland, Germany and many other countries in Europe. The quality of the product, the unique subtle touches of Africa inspiration in the clothing and the brand message has identified with many consumers around the world and we have no doubt that this global growth will yield significant benefit to funding these social projects. We have already opened several libraries in underprivileged schools around the country and are now one of the important funders of the vision of Mr Mandela which is the Nelson Mandela Children’s Hospital.”
His fashion influence has been felt not only on the global stage; many people have this week paid tribute to him by wearing Mandela accessories, T-shirts, scarves and skirts with pride, wanting to keep the Madiba magic alive.
Designer had his work cut out for him
Ayanda Mhlanga
It was 1996 and Sonwabile Ndamase sat at his table at the Hyatt Hotel in Johannesburg, filled with anxiety. Before him stood two iconic men: famed violinist Lord Yehudi Menuhin and the first democratic president of South Africa, Nelson Mandela.
Menuhin had just given the president a violin as a gift and Mandela was to return the favour in kind. The president held the source of Ndamase’s anxiety. A package with a shirt Ndamase had designed.
It was much like the one the struggle hero wore as he stood in front of the dinner party, it was a Madiba shirt.
Ndamase sat amid the bonhomie with unease. He did not know if the shirt would fit the famous musician.
He had been given a job to do, a shirt for the violinist like the ones he made for the president, along with vague measurements. His apprehension grew even greater as the president decided he had to open the package in front of the audience. Ndamase wanted his chair to swallow him up when the president wanted Menuhin to wear the shirt right then.
The designer held his breath, the maestro put the shirt on. Relief flooded over Ndamase as the shirt slipped over the American’s clothed torso and all was well again.
The two smiled for the cameras. It had been some years since the young man from Pondoland had met the icon.
It was at the Orlando West Mandela home, over breakfast, a few months after he had been released from prison.
Ndamase had become somewhat of a family friend after designing clothes for Winnie and the girls and had received a breakfast on this auspicious morning.
Mandela’s outspoken daughter, Zindzi, put Ndamase on the spot by saying: “Tata i-designer uSonwabile.”
“A Pondo who designs clothes?” said Mandela, his own grandmother had been a Pondo: “Ah, what can you do for me?”
Two weeks later Ndamase showed Mandela just that.
He set out stipulations for the designer, some of them being he needed to take his health into consideration, an aspect that had deteriorated since being in prison.
The shirt had to be light and it had to have its own unique identity.
He also positively did not want a dashiki shirt, that was OR Tambo’s vibe.
Upon returning with the finished product, Mandela was more than pleased.
“This is beautiful! A Pondo doing such great work? Does your mother know you sew so well?” the icon had jibed.
A delighted Ndamase had just landed his biggest, most famous client. - Daily News