Solange closes final Kenzo fashion show for Carol Lim and Humberto Leon
Fashion / 24 June 2019, 3:00pm / Fiachra GIBBONS and Lynne SCHOEMAN
The curtain came down on Paris men's fashion Sunday with two
high-concept shows that had walk-on roles for Solange and K-pop sensation Lisa.
Kenzo's design duo Carol Lim and Humberto Leon said goodbye to the
French label with Solange as the surprise performer in the same Paris
stadium which Elton John had packed to the rafters a few nights
The Californians' ended their eight-year reign with a bang as the
American star appeared on a platform to sing "I'm a Witness" in between the men's and womenswear lines.
The brilliantly choreographed event had started with a similar wow
moment when a huge curtain was pulled away in front of 600 or so fashionistas to reveal several thousand more people on the other side.
Having conducted her 11-piece black-clad brass band, Beyonce's younger
sister then walked arm-in-arm with the designers to acknowledge the
ovation at the end, with the feminist English rapper M.I.A in the
He closed fashion week with another no-expense-spared show that began
with an awesome theatrical device.
As for the clothes, the big news is that the "Sultan of Slim" has
jettisoned his trademark drainpipes, the trousers the late Karl
Lagerfeld once lost nearly 42 kilos (92 pounds) to fit into, for
flares worn long over heeled boots.
Skinny though lives on in the rake-thin male models, every one wearing
black aviator shades.
In fact, Slimane's "Celine 04" collection was very much like a male
version of "Celine 03" -- a walk down memory lane.
This time it was a sometimes literalist re-creation of what American
West Coast rock star types were wearing circa 1973, with a sharp
couture sheen and added sparkles.
Tight leather jackets and flares, unbuttoned shirts and three-piece
double breasted suits with white cowboy boots, red carnation buttonholes and long thin scarves.
- Fans scream for Lisa -
Some tops carried downbeat slogans from New York artist David Kramer's
paintings such as "Yesterday was better", "My own worst enemy" and "Downhill from here".
You could not help but wonder if Slimane -- whose army of loyal
free-spending fans are known as "Slimaniacs" -- was teasing his
critics, with one of Kramer's images carrying the caption, "...There
is no irony here."
Fans did scream at the end but it was more for Lisa, the Thai-born
rapper of Blackpink fame who is Slimane's new "official muse" and who was in the front row.
There was much joy to be had elsewhere with the reinvigorated British
brand Dunhill and Paul Smith, the doyen of English tailoring, showing there is plenty of creative life left in variations on the suit.
But the big breath of fresh air was the young French designer Bruno
Sialelli confirming the promise of his debut collection for Lanvin with a show held at a swimming pool.
Quirky, cool, cute and a lot of fun to look at -- and clearly to wear
Sialelli turned out a collection that played with every cliche of the French summer and seaside and somehow made them look new.
It was hard not to smile at his tricorne straw hats.
Not for him the pasty, androgynous models that often dominate the Paris catwalk.
"I wanted the boys to eat well and to look healthy and strong," he told AFP.
"Now I need a holiday, he added. "I mean, I love my work but holidays
are the best things in life, no?"