PARIS - Loose, studded trousers split
open at the sides and jodhpur-style looks took centre stage at
Chanel on Tuesday, as models walked in twos and threes down a
vast mirrored floor that served as a runway at one of Paris
Fashion Week's last big shows.
While social media stars and professional buyers from China
have largely been absent during the last 10 days of fashion
presentations due to the coronavirus epidemic, other celebrities
and bloggers have flocked in.
American rapper Janelle Monae, French singer Angele and
actress Isabelle Adjani were among guests at Chanel's
extravaganza in the Grand Palais exhibition hall.
Designer Virginie Viard, who was Karl Lagerfeld's number two
and succeeded him after his death last year, presented a largely
monochrome collection, heavily emphasising black and white looks
that have long been Chanel's hallmark.
Pale pink and pastel green tweed suits provided splashes of
colour for the wintry looks, while cowgirl-style trousers were
omnipresent and models wore mid calf, two-tone boots.
"Romanticism but without any flourishes. Emotions but
without any frills," Viard said in show notes. The set was
unusually abstract for Chanel, with onlookers perched around
white, tiered mounds that resembled icy islands.
Chanel, a privately owned brand, has in recent years
recreated everything from a Parisian street to the inside of a
library on the catwalk.
Emily Beecham poses during a photocall before the Chanel Fall/Winter 2020/21 women's ready-to-wear collection show during Paris Fashion Week. Picture: Piroschka van de Wouw/Reuters
Teenage model Kaia Gerber took to the runway in an
off-the-shoulder black gown offset by a clunky, bejewelled belt,
while Gigi Hadid closed the show in a black crop-top and shorts
under a long coat, flanked by two models in white outfits.
"This line is beautiful. I think (Viard) is picking up right
up where Karl Lagerfeld left off," said Chanel client Ingrid
Lion, who came from California with her sister to attend the
show and was decked out from head-to-toe in the brand.
Viard has been in the spotlight over whether she can elicit
the same following as Lagerfeld, who was creative chief for over
30 years, and her approach has been gradually more minimalist.
Anna Mouglalis poses during a photocall before the Chanel Fall/Winter 2020/21 women's ready-to-wear collection show during Paris Fashion Week. Picture: Piroschka van de Wouw/Reuters
"It wasn't the show (it was) during Karl's time but it's a
different one," said Masha Federova, editor-in-chief of Vogue
Russia. "And it's very wearable, it's very clean. It's not a
show-off (event), it's a show of the clothes."
Few guests wore face masks on Tuesday, although some were
spotted wearing fashionable versions of the protective gear at
other shows in recent days.
Valerie Pachner poses during a photocall before the Chanel Fall/Winter 2020/21 women's ready-to-wear collection show during Paris Fashion Week. Picture: Piroschka van de Wouw/Reuters