Don't touch my hair.
Solange Knowles sings the words of her track of that name with vigour. In the music video, she sways her hair from side to side, closing her eyes as it sweeps across her face. She carries on the lyrics of the popular verse: "When it’s the feelings I wear Don’t touch my soul, When it’s the rhythm I know."
Her colourfully beaded braids are layered and thick, fittingly called a crown. This is how many women refer to their hair. They style it, change it, dye it and take care of it for all to see. Black haircare is a billion-rand industry across the continent.
Jumbo, the wholesale business, recently hosted their first African Hair and Beauty Show in Joburg after two successful events in Durban. Event organiser Morgan Naidu, group health and beauty executive at Masscash Holdings, said the move was inevitable.
HAIR, HAIR: Organiser Morgan Naidu said the key to healthy hair was education.
“The concentration of people in Joburg and the market is huge here. We got a lot of support from the manufacturers because they were looking at educating customers to use their products better. As Jumbo, we decided to do this event that would pull all the suppliers together.”
The key element for the show was to train salon owners and hairstylists in skills and development as well as to encourage entrepreneurs looking into the haircare industry.
“We started this because a lot of salons were using products they did not understand. It was damaging people’s hair and increasing receding hairlines.”
The first show was held in Durban in 2014 and repeated last year. For the inaugural show there were 14 suppliers, and this first Joburg show drew 50 suppliers, with more than 2000 salon owners in attendance and many people coming in from neighbouring countries.
Of the 50 suppliers, 12 were new products from the US. The entire production took five months to prepare for that one day.
The event, held at the Turbine Hall in Newtown, was split into two main parts: a day expo and an evening gala dinner that showcased avant garde and trendy everyday hairstyles.
At the day expo, suppliers showcased their hair products with stylists to teach tips, tricks and secrets of the pros, including technical flairs in the breakaway rooms, specialised relaxing techniques, natural hair and styling techniques, the art of colouration and cutting, barbering and adding customer value through beauty services.
MAKING HEADLINES: Tumelo Mpholo works on a model’s hair. She says people are only now starting to really understand their hair and how to use the right products. Picture: Mpiletso Motumi
“Salons are hungry to learn new ideas and new styles. Hair is fashion, and every woman wants to look stunning. We are working and collaborating with our suppliers to be able to do this more often in other cities,” said Naidu.
Suppliers at the show included popular brands ORS and Cantu.
Natural-hair aficionado Tumelo Mpholo and a hairstylist for Cantu said the brand’s popularity was because of how the products handled hair. “It’s not just moisture that sits on top of your head. It retains moisture, and the quality of the product goes a long way.
"It tames frizz, seals the cuticle and allows hair to absorb more moisture.”
Mpholo added that there weren’t any other products that gave that amount of moisture to afro hair, specifically.
“Especially in the sub-Saharan area, because our hair is extremely dry. The Cantu range is wide, something for everyone and all different hair types within afros Other brands cater or focus on one type, while Cantu is multi-
textured.”
Mpholo has been in the hair industry for 18 years. In 2005 she decided to leave relaxers and grow her hair naturally.
“I got bored and realised that relaxed hair didn’t suit me. I started to wear it natural and I felt more beautiful.
"I can see my skin, my eyes, my nose. I can see myself, and that excited me and made me fall in love with myself. I think this is the reason more and more women are going natural. Relaxers have been hiding us from who we are.”
Mpholo added that not knowing your hair was also a determining factor to using the wrong products.
Picture: Nokuthula Mbatha/ANA
“From a stylist point of view, I am always telling my clients this when they get frustrated with their hair. I have been natural for 12 to 15 years, long before it started trending. I tell them to be patient with their hair because they have just ‘met’ it.
"There’s an excitement because we have just met ourselves, and product brands have not been catering to how we actually look. We didn’t have products or anyone who focused on researching our hair - how it feels, how to style it, how to 'slay' in it without having to look like someone else.”
Janell Stephens, founder of American brand Camille Rose Naturals, said the key to hair growth was moisture.
“If your hair is healthy, it will grow. If you keep it moisturised, then it will grow. My products soften and strengthen.
"It’s important for people to look at the ingredients of the products they use, avoid alcohols and sulfates. Use products that clean the hair but don’t strip or dry the hair. Wash your hair at least once a month and use a conditioner on a weekly basis.”
WALKING TALL: The gala evening showcased the ability of haircare products from different brands to transform hair. Picture: Nokuthula Mbatha/ANA
Her products and 11 other American products will be landing soon on South African shelves in Jumbo stores.
Michael Hollifield of MV Roberts and Company said bringing manufacturers from the US to South Africa was important for them to better understand the market.
“We got manufacturers to come over here and look at the market, go out and travel all over the country. We’ve seen the wholesale markets and townships, so that gives them an idea of what they need to do. Then we are looking at products and formulations that they have to do - sizing and pricing, to come back and see what we need to do to address the market. From there we will sample to consumers and see what’s next. We’ll get feedback and start selling quality products. The show allows for us to find long-term opportunities to invest,” he said.
While the intricacies of black hair remain a talking point among men and women alike, the haircare market is opening up the conversation even more.
The biggest challenge people now face, with the increased access to a variety of products, is educating themselves and deciding which products suit their curl, coil or kink best.
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