Whether by chance or design, the name Mozambique
conjures up images of mosquitoes, among others. For us, living in the Western Cape enclave, it's not easy to gather reliable information, advice or tips about our northerly neighbour. Thank heavens for the 'net. My sister and I undertook our trek by flying to Durban, renting a car and setting off due north.
We travelled via the N2 past Mkhuze and turned onto
the Jozini road at Pongola dam. We again travelled north,
feeling more and more disconnected from the surroundings, our progress becoming slower as the disintegrating "tar" road's potholes became larger. A 1m-wide, 0.5m deep pothole in the middle of your lane is not unusual.
To add to our disquiet, goats appeared from nowhere
and decided to cross as we were about to pass by, cows
just defiantly stood in the road, people, children, snakes,
liguaan and anything alive preferred the dismal road to
the ever-present bush.
We arrived at the Kosi Bay border post and proceeded
through officialdom, although it would have been perfectly easy to get through without the help of the two
border posts. The only travellers queueing up were South
African holidaymakers going in and Mozambican traders
coming out.
We were collected by Oscar, from our accommodation,
with an old jeep and a big smile. After driving along
any one of the three or four sandy paths that all seem to
lead to nowhere, we arrived at Ponto do Ouro. We found
an interesting, hotch-potch collection of buildings,
canopies, reed huts, tents, make-do shelters and a motel, built in 1975 in the hey-day of Portuguese holiday resort spots.
To suit some from the Sandton club, there was a
super-modern, all-facilities-included holiday resort
situated footsteps from the beach. Ponto is a small
Mozambican village that has been somewhat taken over
by eager and loyal holidaymakers, 95 percent of whom are "Vaalies".
This is a serious holiday spot and it seems that it is only
us, here in the Cape, that are not aware of this. Why
should we be? We have some of the best beaches here
anyway. However, for outdoor activities, scubadiving, snorkeling, diving, fishing, swimming with dolphins and tanning on the beach, it is ideal. Many also go there to display, use and abuse their latest toys, including boats, jetskis, four-wheelers, huge trailers and, of course, the 4x4s they need to get to Ponto.
Ponto is situated in a wide bay with a small reef area
that breaks the incoming tide. The water is warm, with
near transparent crabs hiding in tiny holes along the
water line of the cream-coloured shell-less sandy beach.
The locals are ultra relaxed, they trade their wares at a
few spots along the road and on the beach, while
others sell their fruit and vegetables in the ramshackle
market area. There is a butcher, a baker and a
uhm, liquor store that seems very popular, a church
that was permanently locked, a few shops, a café and 10
restaurants.
Most of the businesses seem to be run by South
Africans and certainly the rand rules. The Whaler, Dolphin
Encounters, Devocean and others are all well established
and supported. Some of these offer great accommodation as well, in tents, or reed huts and most can be contacted via email or Internet.
One of the reasons we chose Ponta was the chance to swim with dolphins. Upon arrival, we immediately booked a place and, when we were offered a trip before the date, we cast an eye to the ocean, noted it was as quiet as the ocean ever would be and accepted.
Without an extra breath to calm my nerves, I found myself clinging to a rope attached to the outside of a rubber-duck, as were seven other people, all wearing life jackets. The life jacket is significant. It was really evident that we were entering an environment we did not actually belong in, on or under.
After five minutes, we passed the breakers, the boat slowed, I started breathing again and the life jackets were removed. We were given instructions on dolphin behaviour, swimming with them and general safety precautions.
Sharks were not mentioned. Everyone got their turn to tumble overboard, with snorkel, goggles and flippers secured. My sister had no qualms about abandoning me and disappearing beneath the swells where she, in fact, did swim with the dolphins - an extraordinary, unforgettable experience.
I tumbled overboard and immediately my hand latched onto the rope. With the other free hand I desperately tried to secure the goggles and snorkel. The long flippers seemed to pull me into the depths of the ocean. From this vantage point, the swells seemed larger, the ocean wider, the coastline further and my breathing became gasps for air.
The skipper implored me to let go and, after the second request, with me still clinging to the boat, now with both hands, he decided I was less trouble inside the boat than outside and I was unceremoniously hauled back in.
Partial relief (we were still in a boat after all) flooded my system and after I started breathing again I took many photos of the dolphins frolicking around, under and beside the boat.
It was a large pod and they were having fun, some even ignoring us and surfing the waves. Dolphin Encounters is also involved with research on the wild dolphins with the University of Maputo. It is certainly an experience I would recommend but do practise some snorkelling beforehand, to gain the full benefit from the experience.
Some general tips and advice: take note of distances. Your travelling time will be longer due to the state of the roads in SA and the lack thereof in Mozambique. The border post closes and opens at certain times. If you are late, you will need to overnight at Kosi Bay. South Africans do need a passport but no visa. Kosi Bay can provide you with all the necessary provisions you may need while in Ponta.
The best road to take is directly north through Hluhluwe, past St Lucia, Sodwana and on to Kosi Bay. There is a safe parking area at the border if you are collected at the border by one of the accommodation facilities.
Although Mozambique is within the "Malaria belt", we found only the odd mosquito and most locals and visitors agreed that they use insect repellent only for protection.
Further north, from Maputo onwards, you would need malaria medication. Ponta is not really accessible from Maputo unless you have a 4x4 or opt to travel with the local, irregular "bus" on a very long, bumpy and arduous path through the elephant reserve.
December is the start of the rainy season but with a little luck and good timing you could have a sunny, hot beach holiday. Ponta seems to be crime-free (an unexpected surprise to all South Africans), probably due to the odd soldier with an automatic rifle sauntering around and its isolation from the rest of Mozambique and South Africa.