By Renata Ford
Bangkok - Hot and humid – that was my first “taste” of Bangkok – and that was at 5.30am when we disembarked. But the “Land of Smiles” was not to disappoint as Thai people are as warm and welcoming as the climate.
Bangkok is tropical as it falls in the South Asian monsoon system. Something to take into consideration when planning a holiday to South East Asia.
When I told family and friends I was going to Bangkok I heard a few “Confucius says…” jokes, repeatedly. And a couple of references to Murray Head’s One Night In Bangkok. But all jokes aside, and despite it being a whistle-stop tour, it was a part of the world I hadn’t been to before and I was excited.
Nestled in the Chao Phraya River delta in central Thailand, Bangkok is the country’s capital, and is home to over eight million people. It is also one of the world’s top tourist destination cities with over 15 million projected visitors for 2013 (according to Wikipedia).
Bangkok is a bustling metropolis providing many contrasts – the old and the new, the rich and the poor. The high-rise buildings in the distance, as we approach the city, are in stark contrast to the humble homes dotted along the highway – ironically with satellite dishes peeping out from almost every roof.
Bangkok truly satisfies all the senses – with unique attractions that will appeal to a diverse group of tourists. From historical and cultural sights like royal palaces, temples, historic homes and museums to shopping and dining experiences offering a variety of choice and price. Whether you want to eat at a top restaurant or try the local street food – there is something to suit every pocket.
There are over 40 000 Buddhist temples spread around Thailand known as “wat” in Thai. Among Bangkok’s well-known sights are the Grand Palace and major Buddhist temples, including Wat Phra Kaew, Wat Pho, and Wat Arun.
One of these, the Wat Arun, is named after Aruna, the Indian God of Dawn. Our visit to Wat Arun (the Temple of Dawn), was a highlight for me. Over 200 years old and glittering in the sun, Wat Arun is the most striking attraction on the west bank of the river. This Buddhist temple is an architectural representation of Mount Meru, the centre of the world in Buddhist cosmology. Construction of the “phra prang” (towers), which are covered in tiny pieces of colourful Chinese porcelain, resembling mosaic, was started by King Rama II and completed by King Rama III. Visiting this site gave me a real sense of ancient Buddhist traditions and customs, which are still practised today. We were also given a unique opportunity to make an offering to the Buddhist monks. The monks, in turn, blessed us with luck and our loved ones who had passed on. Wat Arun is magnificent and can be accessed from the river – definitely worth the stop.
Bangkok is one of the most traffic congested cities in the world. But there are a variety of transport options – buses, tuk tuks, water taxis, ferries and metered taxis. Do take a ride on a tuk tuk at least once. I won’t lie, it is scary – those drivers weave in and out of traffic narrowly missing pretty much everything. And be sure to negotiate the costs with tuk tuk drivers. And wear a mask to help filter out the carbon monoxide.
An amusing sight are the many buses with their own form of air-conditioning – missing windows. The Skytrain is easy to get to grips with, and is airconditioned. With trains running every three minutes you’ll navigate the city with ease. Use the express train from the airport and avoid taking luggage on the regular commuter trains in peak hours.
Taking a cruise along the river in a longtail speed boat is for the adventurous. It’s certainly not smooth sailing but is highly recommended – and traffic on the river appears to be as busy as on the city streets. But it offers an alternative view of life along the river. The boatsmen navigating the canals are adept at manoeuvring into the tightest spots for tourists to embark and disembark. Old and derelict warehouses appear alongside simple family homes perched on stilts and in between modern housing and Buddhist temples and shrines – offering a kaleidoscope of visual contrasts.
Stopping along the river, opposite a temple, a local woman sells bread for 20 Thai bhat (about R6) for tourists to feed the fish. The fish near this temple are considered sacred and are not for eating purposes. Fishermen avoid the fish, they grow fat and the locals make a living. It’s a win-win situation.
And there is much shopping to do in Bangkok. From upmarket markets like the Asiatique, a riverside entertainment and shopping area, to regular street markets and large malls like MBK, there is something for everyone – from souvenir and clothing stalls, sarongs bearing Asian elephant prints and handicrafts to carvings and plenty of miniature beaming Buddhas. MBK also has an entire floor dedicated to electronic goods only. A tech junkie’s dream. And there is plenty available if brand name knock-offs are your thing. Top tip though: always negotiate. The more you buy the less you pay per item.
I am also now a firm fan of Thai cuisine. I love the passion that is evident in Thai cooking, the colours and combination of fresh produce and seafood, the blending and balancing of sweet, sour, salty and bitter, the aromatic spices, the subtle flavours of nutmeg, saffron, ginger, cardamom, Thai lemon basil, coconut and lemongrass. And be sure to try a herbal cool drink – coloured purple from the Butterfly Pea flower that I found refreshing after a hot day out in the city. My senses were truly heightened as I watched the moon rise while dining on the deck at the 5-star Zense Restaurant – offering a fantastic panoramic view of the city. And I would return to Bangkok purely to partake in what I consider one of the most delicious desserts I have yet tasted – made from tapioca, watermelon and cucumber. Compliments to Zense Restaurant’s chef.
Don’t miss an evening cruise on the river where you can take in the city lights and dine at the luxurious Shangri-la hotel – where a range of traditional Thai food, among other cuisine, is on offer.
And it’s not only Bangkok that has so much to offer – beach resorts on the islands of Phuket and Samui prove to be popular for South African tourists. And another bonus for South Africans is that visas are not required.
If you like New York, you will like Bangkok. It has the same frenetic energy and vibe. It is a city that never sleeps. You can spend a year eating out in the city and not dine at the same venue twice.
And while it wasn’t exactly one night in Bangkok, my experience of the city was brief. A city as diverse and vibrant as Bangkok deserves more of my time. So with that said, I will have to wing my way back. If only for another helping of that tapioca dessert. Or perhaps a visit to the Grand Palace, or one of the floating markets, to try out a proper traditional Thai massage and fish-pedicure, and perhaps a bit of snorkelling at one of the many pristine beach resorts Thailand has to offer. Thailand is famous for its legendary hospitality and that was my experience in Bangkok as a whole – I was well-served wherever I went. No surprise Thailand is a top tourist destination.
If You Go...
My travel companions and I were hosted by Thai Airways and Destination Asia. We were treated like gold at the InterContinental Hotel which also offers a late check-out service which is very handy for the 1am return flights to SA.
But there is accommodation to suit every budget in Bangkok – my only recommendation is that you ensure you have air conditioning.
l Destination Asia provides destination management services from local offices in 11 countries around east and southeast Asia, including meeting and conference organisation, team building, corporate incentive travel products, airport transfers, hotel bookings and tour packages. Ask them for the fast track service that will get you through customs in no time at all. – www.destination-asia.com/
I rate the the service on Thai Airways highly. The flight was comfortable, the crew warm and friendly, the service impeccable. After a behind-the-scenes tour of Thai Airways catering division I have a new-found respect for in-flight food. Over 4 000 people are employed in this division, preparing approximately 60 000 quality meals a day. The Yellow Orchid Restaurant, run by Thai Airways, is in Bangkok and is open to the public, and offers a range of delicious traditional Thai meals.
Bangkok is served by two airports, Don Mueang International Airport and the newer Suvarnabhumi Airport. Thai Airways fly direct to Bangkok and work primarily out of Suvarnabhumi. The airline flies to 75 destinations in 35 countries. We went for a “flight” in an A340-600 flight simulator. The instructor created two emergency situations. Rest assured the crew are certainly put through their paces and having now seen what happens behind the scenes I wasn’t bothered as much by the turbulence on the flight back. - Saturday Star
Fact Box
The Thai Elephant:
Elephants have played an important part in Thailand’s history and today the Thai elephant (chang thai) remains an enduring symbol of Thailand.
In bygone eras they were used in warfare, but more recently elephants were used as beasts of burden, particularly in the logging industry.
The elephant also has special significance with its association with Buddhist and Hindu beliefs. And its image features on many Thai crafts and clothing. – www.kingpower.com
Thai boxing:
Thai boxing (Muay Thai) is a native form of kickboxing and Thailand’s national sport. It incorporates kicks, punches, knees and elbow strikes in a ring with gloves similar to those used in Western boxing.
This physical and mental discipline which includes combat on foot is known as “the art of eight limbs” because it is characterised by the combined use of fists, elbows, knees, shins and feet, being associated with a good physical preparation that makes a full-contact fight very efficient. – Wikipedia