Johannesburg - September is the month of spring, of new beginnings… and new adventures. It’s also Tourism Month – a reminder that we South Africans are some of the luckiest people in the world when it comes to beautiful, historic and exciting places to visit in our own country.
This week, we focus on the riches of our coastline – that 2 500km which stretches from the border with Namibia around the Fairest Cape all the way up to the tropical border with Mozambique. From the icy Benguela Current, which washes up along the arid shores of our West Coast; to the Agulhas Current, which churns down from the Eastern Cape towards the southern tip of our country; and on to the warm, sultry Mozambique Current washing down from tropical climes to the north; our coastline is ever-alive, from quietly serene to energetically forceful. From whales to dolphins to vast schools of sardines, our waters teem with life. And they teem with opportunities for adventure, for fun and relaxation, whether on the water or from the beach or even the exciting towns and cities. So, come with us now on a brief, scintillating journey along our coast. We hope it inspires you to get out and explore your own backyard…
DURBAN
Forget Rio De Janeiro! We’ve got our own subtropical paradise. They speak our language, they’re friendly and they don’t charge a fortune in the KZN capital, Durban, also the capital of nightlife, beachlife and funlife in the coastal province. Durban’s Golden Mile, recently revamped at a cost of more than R250 million, is pumping: ask anyone jogging along the Promenade, swimming in the beach pools or sea… or those staying in the prime beachfront hotels. You can take in uShaka Marine World, a globally competitive facility which can occupy the whole family for a day with its sea creatures, adventures, shops and food. Durban also has the World Cup stadium with a cable car ride right to the top for stunning views. (Tip: Go early when the air is clear.) Good restaurants, shopping centres and markets bring the buzz to Durbs.
THE AMAZING SARDINE RUN
Every year, between the months of May and July, millions of silvery sardines swim north from the cold oceans off South Africa’s Cape Point, hugging the shore as they make their way up along the coastlines of the Eastern Cape and KwaZulu-Natal. Visible even by satellite, these sardine shoals travel in masses stretching up to 15 km in length, 3.5km wide and nearly 40m deep. Add to this hundreds of predators arriving to partake in a feeding frenzy and you have an extraordinary wildlife spectacle.
BUNNY CHOW
A Durban classic, a bunny chow is a half-loaf of white bread filled with curry. The bunny chow goes to the migrant Indian labourers after they first arrived in South Africa between 1860 and 1911 to work on the sugar cane plantations of KwaZulu-Natal. One account suggests that the workers required a way of carrying their lunches to the fields and a hollowed-out loaf of bread was a convenient way to carry curry. The bunny chow today is a favourite among many South Africans, filling and delicious.
UP THE EAST COAST
Venture off the beaten track to the untamed Eastern Cape; the 250km stretch of the Wild Coast is an unspoiled coastline of sweeping bays, beaches, lazy lagoons and rocky headlands. Stay in the seaside resorts of Coffee Bay and Port St Johns or hike the forests or beaches.
Heading up, you hit the South Coast of KwaZulu-Natal, from Port Edward north to Amanzimtoti (just south of Durban) with some of the best beaches in South Africa, from Margate, Ramsgate, Port Shepstone and Southbroom to quaint Munster near the world-famous Aliwal Shoal, one of the finest scuba diving spots in the world. Near Port Shepstone is the scenic Oribi Gorge Nature Reserve. The South Coast is sometimes referred to as the “Golf Coast” for its golf courses. It also offers museums and galleries, Zulu and Indian culture, cafés and casinos with a wide range of accommodation.
Past Durban and heading north from uMhlanga, you’re into the heart of the Zulu Kingdom, where the names of the places are redolent with history.
The seaside towns of Ballito, uMdloti, Salt Rock, uMhlali, Tinley Manor and Shaka’s Rock are, like their counterparts on the South Coast, relaxed and friendly and their charges won’t break the bank. Plus, you’ll be close to a host of nature reserves and game parks – all within a quick drive’s distance .
If you are into Nature, then St Lucia is a must…and don’t go home until you’ve seen the leatherback and loggerhead turtles coming ashore to lay their eggs. And then return to see their baby turtles forcing their way out of their eggs and heading to the sea. If you’re into fishing, then the North Coast of KwaZulu-Natal has some of the best angling spots in the country… whether from the beach or from a boat out at sea.
Sodwana is a mecca for fishermen and scuba divers. It sits in the middle of the Elephant Coast, a near-pristine 220km stretch of beach and dune forest and game reserves like Ndumo and the Tembe Elephant Park.
PORT ELIZABETH TO EAST LONDON
The scenic coastal route between Port Elizabeth and East London is 283km long and takes in the seaside holiday villages of Kenton-on-Sea and Port Alfred. Port Elizabeth offers visitors stunning beaches, museums and memorials, wildlife destinations, cultural and historical nuggets and some of the friendliest folk in the country. There are protected areas for swimming and less populated spots for fishing, surfing, scuba diving, snorkelling and sailing. Then, a 129km drive east along the coast is the picturesque family resort of Kenton-on-Sea, set between the Kariega and Bushman’s tidal rivers. Another great stopover is Port Alfred, which offers not only beaches but top-class shopping malls, the Royal Port Alfred Golf Club links course and a small-boat harbour. East London is the gateway to the Wild Coast and the only river port in South Africa. Its strong links with England and traces of German lineage can be found in well-preserved examples of 19th-century architecture.East London has a natural history museum housing the only dodo egg in existence and an exhibit of the coelacanth, an aquarium, the Queen’s Park Zoo and botanical gardens.
PINOTAGE
Pinotage is South Africa’s very own signature red wine, as much a part of our cultural DNA as the Soweto Derby, long evenings spent outdoors with friends and the sun rising over the Indian Ocean. It’s compulsory sipping on chilly winter evenings in front of a crackling log fire. And it’s always at the party when there’s something to celebrate and conversations that continue long into the night. There are many reasons that this is the nation’s favourite drink: it’s unique to South Africa and it’s delicious too. Smoky, earthy and a deep, gorgeous plummy red. Pick up a bottle, head to the beach with friends, throw a blanket down and enjoy the perfect tipple on your perfect holiday. Cheers!
SNOEK
Ah, snoek. The long, slender, muscular silver fish with the razor- sharp teeth that’s the stuff of South African legend, snoek is an integral part of South Africa’s heritage. It’s sustained fishing communities for centuries along the West Coast of the country drawing them on their boats at the crack of dawn to return to shore hours later, their craft bearing their precious catch. Snoek is typically (and traditionally) served smoked and cold on fresh bread with apricot relish. Or it’s made into a pâté that’s a mouth-watering delicacy at the suavest and most elegant cocktail and dinner parties the world over. Pick some up as you travel the West Coast. It’s the very essence of local delectable.
Saturday Star