Kimberley - The long grass is waving yellow in the breeze, while a lone acacia tree stands sentinel over the plains, which stretch as far as the eye can see. In the distance, darkening African clouds portend rain… or not, you can never quite tell.
In the distance, we spot teeming herds of game – easier to see in this open grassland than in South Africa’s more common bushveld: wildebeest, giraffe, zebra.
One can almost taste the forgotten Africa of Karen Blixen, feel the thunder of hooves across the Serengeti. But this, this hidden gem of South African beauty, our own version of the East African plains, is barely four hours from Joburg, just outside the diamond mining town of Kimberley.
The farms Dronfield and Rooipoort, in the big space of the near-Kalahari, are part of the “Diamond Route”, an initiative to merge the research and ecological assets on nine conservation properties in South Africa and Orapa, Botswana, owned by Ernest Oppenheimer & Son and De Beers.
Visitors interested in our country’s history can also savour some of the rich cultural and historical heritage dating back to the era of San rock art, the Diamond Rush and the siege of Kimberley.
The Diamond Route criss-crosses the country, including the Venetia Limpopo Nature Reserve, Ezemvelo near Bronkhorstspruit, the naturalised Brenthurst Gardens in Johannesburg, historical Kimberley (the Big Hole Diamond Experience, Benfontein, Rooipoort and Dronfield), the premier wildlife destination of Tswalu Kalahari, the unspoilt Namaqualand Coast of Diamonds at Kleinzee, and Orapa.
The De Beers ecology division does a sterling job managing five of the nine Diamond Route properties – Dronfield, Rooipoort, Benfontein, The Big Hole (all in the Kimberley area) and Venetia Limpopo Nature Reserve.
Explains Piet Oosthuizen, head of De Beers Ecology Division: “For every hectare that is mined, we rehabilitate and conserve six hectares in order to ensure a balance between a healthy and sustainable ecosystem and the utilisation of natural resources.”
Having recently had the opportunity to feast my eyes and senses on a wide variety of game species at Dronfield and Rooipoort, followed by a tour of the Big Hole and other prominent historical locations in the Diamond City, I realised anew just how much South Africa has to offer in terms of top travel destinations and experiences.
Opting for some of these prime local alternatives instead of trips further afield will not only safeguard you from the negative effects of the exchange rate but will enable you to experience a unique combination of biodiversity, cultural and heritage conservation first-hand.
On our arrival in Kimberley, Oosthuizen personally escorted us to Dronfield, where reserve manager Charles Hall joined us on a game drive to view some high-value species, both men a valuable source of information.
Where game drives at bushveld lodges and game parks in the northern parts of the country are often hampered by the dense vegetation, this drive, despite the heat and exceptionally arid environment, was a feast for the senses, thanks to the wide-open plains and dry water pans where herd upon herd of giraffe, springbok, blue wildebeest, gemsbok and red hartebeest… you name it, either leisurely roamed, or feverishly darted around.
About 10km outside Kimberley on the N12, the 12 000ha Dronfield reserve has belonged to De Beers since 1888, where it initially was used for agricultural purposes.
It was converted into a game farm in 2004.
Besides a small conference facility and swimming pool – much needed in the extremely hot and often dry summer months – the reserve has six serviced, self-catering and fully equipped, air-conditioned thatched chalets, all in mint condition.
Game drives can also be arranged.
Classified as an important birding area, where about 220 bird species have been identified, Dronfield is also home to a breeding colony of white-backed vultures, which has been extensively researched for over 20 years, as well as a vulture restaurant that allows visitors to watch these large birds feasting at close range.
Spotting a lone vulture at the top of a camel-thorn tree, Hall pointed out that vultures hatch only one baby at a time.
The sight of about 20 stately giraffe and their gradual retreat against the backdrop of the Kimberley thornveld, interspersed with the odd koppie, will be etched in my memory for years to come.
Barely a minute later, we were treated to a majestic herd of sable antelope, as usual with only one breeding bull in their midst. (The breeding camps are only open to arranged game drives and are not part of the general, self-drive tourist area.) Unlike humans, the high-value, top-gene sable, which these days can fetch up to R3,5m for males and R2m for females, can tolerate relatively high levels of in-breeding, said Hall.
The surrounding veld, with its wide variety of trees and grasses, provides ideal grazing for the animals. Likewise, the camel-thorn trees that dominate the landscape, also play an important role as their pods have high nutritional value, particularly in times of drought. And over the centuries, the pockets of red sand on the farm were blown all the way from the Kalahari and the Okavango.
Spotting the reserve’s ten odd buffalo bulls in a separate camp, brought on another adrenalin rush. Prize bulls, judged, among other things, on the length of their horns and their bloodlines, are highly sought after and not so long ago, a record price of R40m was paid for a bull, said Hall.
“Game farming is actually an excellent investment. These days buffalo, sable and roan, which on average fetch R300 000 to R400 000 each, are the money spinners, with exceptional horn spans and colour variants the determining factors. And as breeders are searching for the best genes, prices continue to rise.”
During the drive, we came across several hollowed pathways with clear remnants of ox wagon tracks, which were left by yesteryear’s ‘transportryers’ who plied these plains in search of firewood from camel-thorn trees, as well as to support the mine shafts. Likewise, trekkers’ ox wagons on their way to the north also left their ruts.
And from a distant koppie on the farm, the Boers successfully fired cannon during the Siege of Kimberley during the Anglo Boer War, Hall pointed out.
The 44 000ha Rooipoort reserve is, like Dronfield, steeped in history and home to an impressive list of antelope, zebra and giraffe. Situated 63km west of Kimberley in the transition zone between the Karoo, the Kalahari and grassland zone, Rooipoort is one of the oldest conservation areas in southern Africa, dating back to 1893. It was declared South Africa’s fourth natural heritage site in 1985.
According to Oosthuizen, Rooipoort was at some stage the largest single private supplier of animals to reserves and game ranches in southern Africa and has played a vital role in ensuring the survival of some game species, including the red hartebeest and white-tailed gnu or black wildebeest. Thanks to the conservation efforts by Rooipoort management and other local landowners, black wildebeest have been taken off the endangered species list.
During our drive at the farm, we paused at Bushman’s Fountain to view some of the 4 600 Bushman rock engravings, one of the richest rock art sites in southern Africa. Rooipoort’s logo incorporates an example of their art, Oosthuizen and reserve manager Dayne Knight told us.
Sundowners, with a splendid sunset, were taken on the banks of the Vaal River. High above, some fish eagles soared, dipping down occasionally for a bite; while a group of young kudu on an island in the river decided to brave the water to “come home”.
Shortly before nightfall, we arrived at the Shooting Box, Rooipoort’s historical gem and unique landmark. This very special venue, as well as the adjacent two-bedroom cottage, can also be booked for meetings and accommodation.
Built in 1899 and used to house hunters and personal friends of Cecil John Rhodes during hunting expeditions, the entire building with its six rooms, large dining room, lounge and kitchen, until recently ably serviced by a century-old boiler, was built from a “kit” shipped over from England and transported to the farm by ox wagon at a cost of £590, a hefty amount of money at the time!
After a tour of the historical house, we retired to chairs on the lawn for drinks and snacks before heading to the stately dining room for a sumptuous meal of barbecued sosaties, salads and toasted rolls.
Back in Kimberley, a quick tour of the historical De Beers headquarters and boardroom was followed by a most informative tour of the truly world-class Big Hole visitors’ centre. With manager and curator Dirk Coetzee at hand to share information, the fascinating era of the 1871 Diamond Rush with its infamous characters such as Barney Barnato came vividly to life.
Just imagine: more than 2 722kg of diamonds were mined at the Big Hole before it was closed in 1914.
After my taste of part of the Diamond Route, I know two things: I will try the other offerings on the Route; and I will be back to the peace and space of our own little Serengeti.
IF YOU GO
www.diamondroute.com has all the details you’ll need. - Saturday Star