Pastoral pleasures

Published Apr 10, 2008

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Most visitors to Knysna, strolling the vibey marina or cruising around the lagoon on a paddle steamer, would see little reason to turn inland.

But just beyond the town, on the road to George, is a turnoff to Rheenendal and a ramble through picture-perfect, lush green farmland, past galleries and craft shops, into the Outeniqua foothills and the country's oldest gold mine.

You can, in fact, take the first right after White Bridge over the end of the lagoon and drive up Phantom Pass, but it's a dusty route and offers little in the way of views through the dense foliage.

Rather opt for the tarred Seven Passes Road to George, and you'll soon come across the Art Barn, a stylish modern gallery with rotating exhibitions, then Bushpig, which produces screenprinted fabrics.

Wall hangings, tablecloths, cushion covers, framable prints, placemats, serviettes and table runners are made on the premises - and sold at local farmers' markets as well as upmarket shops.

Further on, past a herb farm, there's a right turn on to a long dirt road leading through citrus orchards and over a big dam wall to Portland Manor, built in the mid-1800s by Henry Barrington and now lovingly restored by Denis and Debbie Corne.

Peacocks roam gardens which sweep down to a lake, and it's easy to imagine ghosts pacing the wooden floors of the bedrooms in the old manor house, which has become a country hotel. A cramped little staircase leading to the attic - once servants' rooms - is particularly spooky.

But you'll want to linger in the warm-hued library - and by the fire in the English-style Portland Arms pub, the interleading rooms of which are packed with quirky pieces of memorabilia from old skis to a petrol bowser. I'm not sure about the drinks dispenser made from the rear ends of two warthogs, but I've seen few more inviting pubs outside the UK.

If you can tear yourself away, pass Armitage Bowls (bowls and pepper grinders from indigenous wood) and Starlight Threads (weaving and painted shirts), and whisk past Rheenendal itself, where just about every business is called Tottie's. Florence van Reenen, affectionately called Tottie by her grandchildren, started the general dealer store in the tiny town in 1922 to service the needs of the staff of her husband's sawmill, as well as the woodcutters of Millwood. Today a family restaurant bearing her name is renowned for its real boerekos.

Just after Rheenendal - don't blink or you'll miss it - is a long, winding road through dense, beautiful forests to the gold mine at Millwood.

Gold was discovered in the area in 1876 and hundreds of fortune hunters descended on Millwood, establishing in weeks a mini town with six hotels and shops. By 1888, 1 400 claims were being worked.

But in the end they yielded little and were abandoned. Millwood became a ghost town and today only two buildings remain - a museum and coffee shop, and a quaint cottage for rent.

There are other self-catering cottages near Bibby's Hoek and an array of activities for those wanting to get away from it all. You can tour the Bendigo mine, picnic, attack one of the walking routes, which range from the Jubilee Creek 3,6km to the 9km Woodcutter Walk, horse ride through the forest, or just have coffee and cake.

The only choice then is either to drive straight back to Knysna, or take the scenic route through Homtini Pass, Barrington and Karatara, past Ruigtevlei to Groenvlei, and down to the N2.

If it's a Saturday morning, reverse the route and start with breakfast at the bustling farmers' market at Sedgefield before heading for Karatara, then Millwood.

Me? I'm going to take my chance with the ghosts of Portland and head for the pub.

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