Waterval Boven is, you could say, the Van Reenen of Mpumalanga.
It has seen the drama of the Anglo-Boer War, revolutions in different modes of transport ranging from ox-wagons to trains to mechanised horse-and trailers lugging imports and exports from the Witwatersrand to the harbours.
In Boven's case, the port is of course Maputo, formerly Lourenco Marques rather than Durban, formerly Port Natal.
But both places celebrate the theme of early transport in their new tourism mode: Wyford guest farm on Van Reenen offers ox-wagon rides, steam train enthusiasts at Boven take visitors on a good old chook-chook ride.
Nothing, though, stops Boven seeming like a sleepy hollow. But things happen here after 11pm on a Saturday night.
Patrons of the cheerful Whistle and Trout pub-cum-museum-cum-restaurant will be toasting the sports heroes of the day with Charles Glass's best brew.
It's a stone's throw from the station platform where the nightly "Mozambique train" rattles through around 11 and on another track steam enthusiast Chris Broderyk "fires up" 2090.
Named after its registration number, the trusty old steam loco is a highlight of the "Boven" experience for people of all ages every Sunday morning when it chugs through scenic bushveld terrain along an escarpment and down into the lowveld to picturesque Waterval Onder and back.
The line has been in operation since 1895, back in the days when it connected Paul Kruger's Boer republic with Lourenco Marques.
Adding nostalgic ambience to the 11am send-off, Boven pensioner, John Bessinger sets up his keyboard on the train platform and his fingers deftly flutter across the keys with old time songs from crooners like Nat King Cole and Shirley Bassey.
He's a cousin of the famous playwright Athol Fugard, Bessinger grew up in Port Elizabeth with him and used to make up compositions to fit the dramatic plays scripted by Fugard.
Bessinger's love of music, piano and violin couldn't pay the bills and that's how he joined the railways as a fitter and turner.
He worked in Waterval Boven and stayed on after retirement, playing the piano at the Whistle and Trout for patrons.
Chug past backyards
On a Sunday he ducks out of church early, so he can add pomp and ceremony to the train's departure.
Meanwhile families, couples and tourists clamber on board the train laden with picnic baskets and camera equipment.
The coach rocks and the slow clickety-clack noise marks the passage of time as we chug past the backyards of Boven - washing lines, caravans, patches of mealies adorned with bright orange flowers of some or other weed.
Volunteers from the Oosterlijn Steam Company play the roles of safety officers and fireman. Running a steam train always has been a highly organised venture.
This dorp is gearing itself up to attract tourists en route to the attractions of Mpumalanga. And the big buzz word around here is "ISO" standardisation (an international measure of quality).
Captivated by scenic charm
This also applies to environmental quality control. A standard that tourism developer Dr Mike Albers is striving to meet in everything he is involved with in Boven.
Albers, who has made his money in the business of exporting precious metal chemicals, visited a friend who owned a farm in the area some years ago.
He was captivated by the scenic charm and beauty and decided to invest in Waterval Boven as well as Waterval Onder to make it one of the regional attractions.
Now he own two restaurants and has scooped a lease agreement with the municipality's Elandskrans Vakansie Oord.
He is busy upgrading the accommodation and has big plans to develop a third restaurant at the resort, and a spectacular terrace offering views of the cliff faces upon which rock climbers haul themselves up, fitting their fingertips into the cracks, then abseiling down.
Hiking trails
His ultimate aim is to develop trout dams and lodges at the high altitudes and lowveld game trails down below in a crescent-shaped 2 500ha of land between the two dorps, - with the tips joined by the railway line.
Waterval Boven has many attractions besides the steam train.
It has a hiking trail that follows the edge of a gorge before dipping into the valley where overnight huts accommodate guests.
In the morning the hikers can join up with the train at Waterval Onder and get a lift back to the top in old-world comfort and style.
The town has three trout dams and a number of charming guest houses, like the Shamrock Arms, opened by "semigrants" Kevin Mullen and Lyn Laubscher from Kensington, Johannesburg, who brought with them Thomas Shingange from their local bowls club to man the bar in Boven.
Passionate people
"We were drawn here by the peace and quiet," says Lyn. "But at the same time we wanted to be part of somewhere that was going to develop."
Steam trains, rock climbing, trout fishing and paragliding are the main activities that attract people to Boven.
And, Dr Albers, says, "people who indulge in them are those special kinds of people who are absolutely passionate about their interests".
The majestic Elands Falls, which obviously, gives reason for the two dorps' names, couldn't be more slap-bang on today's Maputo Corridor.
Wedged between the N4 and the railway line, the spectacularly beautiful sight remains to most travellers a secret, because it is completely hidden from the highway.
Access to the lip of the waterfall is through Boven's Mngwenya (meaning Crocodile) township. "Township tourism potential," beams Albers.
Pierneef painted here
When steam train 2090 reaches the viewpoint of the falls, Broderyk puts on the loco's brakes to allow passengers to capture their "Kodak moment".
The vantage point is probably the one used by local artist Pierneef to paint the falls when he was commissioned to do pictures to promote tourism to the Union of South Africa, according to a caption beside one of the prints in the Whistle and Trout.
The orange sandstone cliffs that lure so many rock climbers line the edge of the escarpment.
The routes are known to climbers all over the world, says climbing guide Gustav Janse van Rensburg who runs Roc&Rope Adventures with his French wife, Alex, who adds her national heritage in her culinary flair at their backpackers' lodge.
Pioneers still
Janse Van Rensburg has climbed all over the world, including Mt Blanc in Switzerland and Yosemite in California and came home to follow the example of many climbers abroad who "move to a climbing areas and find something to do to sustain themselves.
"I am a pioneer in Mpumalanga, but not in South Africa," he says.
"Cape Town is so ideally suited to this and many people have set themselves up as guides, what with TM (Table Mountain) just behind."
He offers training for novices, saves visiting experienced climbers the time they would otherwise spend searching for routes and charges R95 a head for "commercial abseiling", a quick drop for the fun of it, down the rocks parallel with the Elands Falls.
He says his "rough and ready" types often bring canoes and mountain bikes with them to diversify their outdoor activities.
Back on the train, just past the waterfall is the view of the NZASM (Nederlandsche Zuid Afrikaanche Spoorweg Maatchappij) tunnel through which the train passed in the days when its climbed up the pass were supported by rack rail system.
Typical South African homestead
There is also a grand view of the national monument five-arch bridge, dating back to 1893, that also once carried the railway line.
The train whistles and chugs on past hillsides of aloes and euphorbias, down in the valley one has a birds eye view of a typical South African farmyard with a rusted, corrugated iron roof shed.
Then it rolls to a gentle halt at Waterval Onder. As people clamber out on to the tracks, they are told to stand aside.
Filled with anticipation they get a chance to glimpse the might and fury of steam power as the engine roars past at great speed - all for show, of course.
Over the train tracks is the last parliament of the Transvaal Republic where Boer generals gathered at the end of the Second South African Anglo-Boer War.
Museum
This was Paul Kruger's last residence before he fled to Europe and exile via Lourenco Marques.
The Krugerhof Museum, three minutes walk from the station is filled mainly with photographic exhibits and a written narrative.
At Waterval Onder guests can eat the contents of their picnic baskets or order tasty treats from The Tickled Trout, another restaurant offering light continental food.
Waterval Boven is already attracting interest from Johannesburgers who are migrating here for weekends and the modest railway houses are fast taking on the yuppie hue of bright colours and modern trappings.
But one hopes that the local population with its high incidence of one-legged men (victims of train shunting accidents) get to benefit from the town's metamorphosis from railway dorp to tourism Mecca.
Dr Albers plans to use as many local people as possible in his developments and also help local people generate their own small businesses.
He is presently negotiating with Boven's tannies to supply arts and crafts for a flea market. Here the wheels of progress are turning swiftly, but the lure of the town lies in its gentle simplicity and scenic bounty.
Fast Facts
Waterval Boven is two-and-a-half hours from Johannesburg/Pretoria on the N4.
Every night the Komati Express train leaves Johannesburg at 6.10pm, Pretoria at 7.40pm and arrives at Waterval Boven at 1.50am. Coming back it departs from Waterval Boven at 11.01pm arrives in Pretoria at 4.50am, Johannesburg 6.16am.
Tel: (011)773-2992
Accommodation:
Elandskrans: Self-catering four- and six-bed chalets. School holidays and long weekends: prices range from R190 per couple to R290.
Out of season: From R125 per couple to R240. Camping also available; Farm chalets also available at Tranquilitors: R171 per couple; R228 for three people, R285 for four - all seasons. Tel (013) 257-0252.
Roc&Rope Adventures Backpackers: R35 a bed, R60 with dinner. Two-and-a-half day sports climbing courses, guided climbs and abseiling. Tel: (013)257-0363. Fax 275-0299; email.
Shamrock Arms, Third Avenue (two blocks from the station): Bed and Breakfast: R130 per person per night, sharing.
Restaurants:
The Trout and Whistle, First Avenue (Opposite the station). South African cuisine. Tel: (013)257-0698.
Shamrock Arms: Country cuisine. Tel: (013)257-0888.
Waterval Onder:
The Tickled Trout. Continental cuisine, breakfasts, lunches and teas. Tel (013) 257-7078.
The Oosterlijn Steam Company: Rides every Sunday from Waterval Boven to Waterval Onder and back, every Sunday at 11am, back at 1pm. R30 adults, R10 children.
And at Van Reenen: Wyford Guest Farm. Tel: (058)671-0025. Cell phone: 082 493 4641.