Driving through kilometres of sugar cane in the Mid-Illovo area of KwaZulu-Natal doesn't prepare those who have made the journey for what lies at the end of the road.
As we drove through Gwahumbe Game Reserve's entrance gate, the land to one side fell away dramatically. This impression of abrupt change was enhanced by a little troop of zebras prancing off skittishly, to stand silhouetted against the skyline for a moment, before disappearing from sight as the land plunged down into the deep Gwahumbe Valley.
This kind of topography also meant our chalet, perched on the lip of a steep cliff, had spectacular views: down below the river wound its course; a herd of wildebeest munched contentedly on the sweet grass; while at eye level, across the valley, the ubiquitous sugar cane fields flourished in the distance.
So splendid was the scene, I felt reluctant to budge and simply sat there on our chalet's deck.
I fancied an early morning game drive down into the depths to see what was lurking there. Those with their own 4x4s can do this on their own, but I would have had to sign up for an organised tour and, it being mid-week, there were no takers.
Having been on a multitude of game drives, I was certainly not prepared to fork out the cost for a vehicle on my own... and anyway, it meant I didn't have to rise with the energetic sparrows.
Instead, at a more civilised time, I checked in for a detox and massage at Gwahumbe's spa. Friends of mine had on a previous visit signed up for the Pamper Package for couples. They had shown me photographs of them among the bubbles in the hydro bath, and of them dining by candlelight in solitary splendour - because those who participate in this experience have the room set aside just for them.
The Pamper Package was not on my agenda, but my seaweed wrap was rejuvenating and a stint in the zen-like garden soothing.
The reserve consists of riverine forest, valley bushveld and grasslands and is home to hippo, rhino, giraffe, several antelope species as well as caracal, warthog, Cape clawless otter and jackal, to name a few, plus about 180 bird species.
There being no predators, guests can walk within the reserve and there is a restaurant for those who don't want to self-cater.
I didn't have to go far to spot a hippo - a lifelike stone one wallows in a water feature near reception. He became a favourite of mine during our short stay.
- Telephone 031 781 1082 or email [email protected]