When you leave Anysberg Nature Reserve you take nothing with you - except the overwhelming impression of abundance and open plains, never-ending mountains and night skies heavy with stars.
It's a three-hour drive on the N1 to Laingsburg before the dirt road to the reserve starts. But soon the sight of the beautiful Paarl valley gets us into an appropriately rustic mood, and we put the hustle and bustle of the city firmly behind us.
On arrival at Anysberg we tumble out of the car and into our beds, looking forward to breakfast under the acacia tree in front of our white-washed self-catering cottage. After breakfast, time for action - we're going on a two-day pony trek.
Colette van Deventer, the reserve manager, and Willem Fullard, her field ranger, shows us the basics of preparing our trusted steeds for the ride. We set out, holding our reins firmly, getting our first impression of the vastness that is Anysberg.
Our guides point out various fynbos wonders, and darting klipspringers. We also pass a troop of elegant gemsbok who gaze at us quietly. The reserve's 60 000 ha spreads out around us. We're alone. We see no other signs of human habitation or activity, just seemingly endless mountains and fynbos.
Night time. Around a crackling fire at our bush camp we wait expectantly for Willem's wife's roosterkoek to bake (you can order it beforehand), the smell of the potjie promising wonderful gastronomic pleasures.
We sip port - it's not that cold, but it feels like just the thing to be doing on this night out in the open. Then it's time to go to bed, under the stars. The Milky Way is double-thick cream tonight, and we're amazed it's the same sky we see from our window in the city.
The next morning the smell of coffee gets us out of our sleeping bags. Later, out walking, we stop by a rock art site. The drawings make compelling viewing. For a second we're transported 20 000 years back and the finely painted images bring back the artists and their world. It's like coming upon treasure. It is treasure, that's why the reserve allows guided viewings only.
Back at the cottages there's a cement dam for washing off the Karoo dust. Then it's time to say our good-byes, knowing that we have left behind something special that's being taken good care of.