Cape Town - “Bring me a magnum of Belle Rose. And a sabre.” These are not words you hear every day, although I would be happy to.
Haute Cabrière is a wonderful wine farm. Well, two actually, at opposite ends of the Franschhoek Valley. They grow chardonnay and pinot noir there, and make the most delicious array of still and sparkling wines from the two varietals. In the tradition of Champagne, the stills are named after the property, and the méthode cap classiques are named after the original founder, Pierre Jourdan.
The chardonnay pinot noir (now in its 20th vintage) has been a long-time friend, as has the Tranquille. The newer unwooded pinot noir is lovely when it’s slightly chilled, and the Belle Rose… well, imagine an Absolutely Fabulous-style fridge full of that. It would make me very cheerful, in more ways than one.
Haute Cabrière is owned and managed by the colourful Von Arnim family. Patriarch Achim is legendary (many, many stories, most of which are not suitable to repeat in a family newspaper), and his Saturday cellar tours are highly entertaining. If you don’t get him, you’ll get his son Takuan, who is the most charming, generous and gracious of hosts..
My friend Tamar and I had lunch with him at the Haute Cabrière Cellar Restaurant. It was a glorious sunny Sunday, and we sat on the terrace, which has heartbreakingly beautiful views of the valley. Naturally, the wine flowed freely.
As difficult as it is to keep me away from a bottle of bubbly and a sabre, I insisted Tamar go first. At Haute Cabrière, they fish the cork out of the rose bushes and mount it on a little stand as a memento.
I could go on about the wines, but there is the food to discuss. The chef is Ryan Shell, a bundle of energy whose confidence is not shaken by the diner (me), who says “bring me whatever you want”.
There is art in the menu, which tells you the restaurant pursues the “true marriage of food and wine”. All main dishes are available in full and half portions, and Haute Cabrière wines and Pierre Jourdan cap classiques are available by the glass, allowing you to taste a variety of pairings.
But we were in Ryan’s capable hands, and he started us with a delectable little plate of quail eggs covered in creamy sauces, and asparagus. Being ever-conscious of seasonal produce, I demanded to know where he got asparagus at this time of the year. “Across the road, I picked them this morning,” he said.
Ryan is even more serious about these things than I am, and sources herbs and vegetables from the farm garden for almost every dish.
This was followed by a delicate tomato consommé, with Bloody Mary sorbet – heaven in a bowl.
The main dish was what they call assiette of organic beef, which comprises sugar-cured fillet, crispy sweetbreads, soy and cheek ragout, smoked tongue salad, roasted porcini, and basil and yuzu emulsion. “So it’s basically a deconstructed cow,” said my other friend, Karin, who dropped in with her wit and her boyfriend.
Somehow we managed to squeeze in a dessert of excessive chocolate (if there can be such a thing) – brownie, bitter cocoa jelly, white chocolate and vodka ice cream, smoked cocoa sorbet, coffee and chocolate soil, garnished with raspberries.
Spectacular doesn’t begin to cover it.
l Haute Cabrière is on the pass road on the outskirts of Franschhoek. It is open Tuesdays to Sundays for lunch, and dinner on Fridays and Saturdays. Tapas are served at 3-5pm Tuesdays to Thursdays, and 3-7pm on Fridays and Saturdays. To book, call 021 876 3688; e-mail [email protected].
For more information on tastings and tours call 021 876 8500or go to www.cabriere.co.za - Weekend Argus