Cape Town –The great white shark has received terrible press over the years, and is one of the most misunderstood creatures on the planet. Blame the movie Jaws if you want to, but look at these statistics: “According to the International Shark Attack File, between 1580 and 2013 there were 2 667 confirmed unprovoked shark attacks around the world, of which 495 were fatal.”
You’re more likely to be killed by a ballpoint pen, a toaster, or just plain stupidity (look up the Darwin Awards). The great white has only two enemies: orcas, and humans who hunt them relentlessly. Shark fin soup, anybody? Like rhino horns, it’s a shameful thing. You’ll learn some of these facts and figures during your briefing at Marine Dynamics before heading out into Shark Alley in Gansbaai to see these magnificent animals at extremely close quarters.
This is not the best time of year for shark spotting; it’s much better during the winter months. But I was in the area and had my heart set on ticking this thing off my bucket list. It was one of the worst days possible – the wind was howling, the swells were high, and almost every one of the skippers of the many shark boats based in Gansbaai were shaking their heads and saying no way.
All except Marine Dynamics.
That’s because Marine Dynamics has a huge custom-built boat called Slashfin (named after a legendary male shark with a very distinctive dorsal fin) which is designed for speed, stability, safety and space.
It’s the only boat that will go out under just about any conditions. Slashfin can accommodate up to 40 passengers and crew on two levels, plus of course the shark cage, which holds eight divers at a time.
You’ll need to set aside several hours for this experience, not including travel time, which is about three hours from Cape Town. Transport can be arranged – check the website below. There is registration, wetsuit sizing, and briefing, as well as a light lunch. Sea sickness was a very real likelihood due to the raging ocean, but apparently having something to eat and drink can actually help. Naturally there is an indemnity form to be signed.
Once Slashfin is in the harbour, you’re fitted with a bright orange hooded oilskin and a life jacket. before filing down to board the boat. On a day such as this one, the ride out to the viewing area is more hair-raising than any shark encounter. Hold on tight, is all I can say, even when the boat is anchored.
The crew of permanent staff and volunteers from around the world swing into action, getting the shark cage attached, dishing out wetsuits, preparing the bait. The sharks are attracted by a mixture of fish oils and other bits, as well as a bait handler who has a cluster of fish heads on the end of a long rope, and another bloke tossing a seal-shaped decoy. At no time are the sharks fed; these methods are only used to lure them closer.
A very helpful tip I was given was to position myself in the shark cage at the end closest to the bait handler. It makes perfect sense, and it paid off. With this form of diving, no breathing apparatus is used. Apparently the sound and the bubbles annoy the sharks and that’s the last thing you want, no matter how safe you are in the cage. The only part of you that is left exposed is your mouth and hands.
Once inside the cage, there are foot and hand rails and under no circumstances should you put any part of your body outside the cage, however tempting it is to point in excitement when you think you see a fin. Leave that to the spotter who will shout the instruction, “Down! Down!”. This is when you take a deep breath and pop your head beneath the surface of the water to see the shark.
On the best viewing days you will be able to see clearly, but on this occasion visibility was virtually nil. So it was a good thing I was where I was because the first shark appeared as if out of nowhere, slammed into the cage mere centimetres from me – no exaggeration – and swam away just as fast. It was all too quick even for my adrenalin to kick in.
But it happened, and that’s all that matters.
After that, it went quiet for quite a while so I got out of the cage to give others a chance, only to have several more sharks – average size about 4m – make an appearance.
On the plus side, the elevated perspective from the boat was quite spectacular, especially since the bait handler got them to lift right out the water giving a clear view of their massive heads and wide open toothy jaws.
Yes, it’s all very thrilling, but there is more to it than that. Marine Dynamics is dedicated to the conservation and study of sharks, and there is a marine biologist on board every trip to explain and answer all your questions.
“Taking you on captivating trips at sea to meet and dive with the great white sharks is just one of many things we do to protect, conserve and enjoy the unique marine wildlife in the Gansbaai area. The ecosystem is interlinked and, while we study and research the great whites and their natural habitats, we also teach and educate our guests and the local community about ways to look after and cherish nature,” it says on the website, which offers a wealth of information about the dives and the sharks.
“Marine Dynamics, in conjunction with Dyer Island Cruises and the Dyer Island Conservation Trust, is deeply involved with various and diverse research and conservation projects concerning the Marine Big Five – penguins, whales, dolphins, seals and sharks – as well as educational and upliftment programmes in the local community.”
After returning from the trip, you’re given more food and shown a video of your experience which you can download for a small fee to watch and share with your friends. Mine is tinyurl.com/22fe152. Check it out.
Weekend Argus
For more information, see www.sharkwatchsa.com or call 082 380 3405 or 079 9309 694.