Haarlem, Holland -
Elegant canals, a handful of tourist-friendly coffee shops and even a mini red light district make Haarlem easy to draw comparisons with Holland's largest city.
1. IT'S THE OLDEST TOWN IN NORTH HOLLAND
Haarlem was granted city status (stadsrechten) in 1245, long before Amsterdam, although the first city walls were not built until 1270. Its location close to the North Sea meant the city quickly became rich after charging toll revenues to passing trade ships.
Today much of the historical architecture remains, including the Unesco-protected 14th century St Bavo's cathedral, which dominates the main square. Go inside to see the Müller organ, once played by a 10-year-old Mozart. Bells still ring daily at 9pm to warn residents the gates to the old town are closing. Visit the Amsterdamse Poort, built in 1355, the last of 12 original city gates that once formed a defence system.
My famous windmill | #DeAdriaan #Haarlem
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2. MANY DUTCH MASTERS LIVED AND WORKED HERE
This led to Haarlem becoming the subject of numerous great paintings. The most famous resident was Frans Hals, who spent his final years living in a local poorhouse. It now operates as a museum, showcasing the largest collection of the 17th-century artist's work alongside key pieces from the Haarlem School. Highlights include Hals' portraits of the civic guard and pieces by Pieter Saenredam and Jan Steen. Visit franshalsmuseum.nl
3. IT'S HOME TO SOME OF THE FINEST HISTORIC ALMSHOUSES
In total, there are 21 hofjes enclosed in quaint, leafy courtyards. Originally built by wealthy families to house elderly widows, many are still used by single women aged over 60. Most are free to visit, and open daily, except Sunday, from 10am-5pm. Every Saturday a 1.5-hour guided tour takes place, starting at 2pm from St Bavo's. Built in 1395, the Hofje van Bakenes are the oldest almshouses in the Netherlands, and are located next door to the newest addition, the Johan Enschedé Hof, built in 2007.
4. IT'S LIKE AMSTERDAM, BUT WITHOUT THE CROWDS
Elegant canals, a handful of tourist-friendly coffee shops and even a mini red light district make it easy to draw comparisons with Holland's largest city. There's even a replica of an 18th-century windmill, Molen de Adriaan, overlooking the Spaarne river.
Most shops and cafés are located on pleasant streets that trail off from the main square in a star formation. For a cosy lunch spot, try the restaurant Dijkers (restaurantdijkers.nl), and ask for a window seat.
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5. THE OLDEST MUSEUM IN THE NETHERLANDS IS IN THE CITY
Celebrating the worlds of arts and science, the excellent Teylers Museum (top right) has its roots in the 18th century period of Enlightenment. Both Napoleon and Einstein visited the grand building, with its high-domed ceiling and dusty wooden cabinets filled with treasures.
Key pieces that are housed in the museum include a large electrostatic generator and a collection of preparatory sketches for the Sistine Chapel. The originals are kept in storage but can be viewed by appointment. A hidden library houses a collection of atlases and natural history books, including the beautifully illustrated Birds of America, worth $10-million.
As museum official Michel Hommel explains: “An institution such as this might not have survived independently in Amsterdam. But in Haarlem time moves slower; at Teylers it stands still.” Visit teylersmuseum.nl
6. YOU CAN DRINK BEER IN A 200-YEAR-OLD CHURCH
At one time there were 120 breweries in the city, but they have all since closed down. To commemorate the 750th anniversary of Haarlem, the Jacobskerk was restored to create the Jopenkerk brewery and restaurant. Now giant gold mash tuns hang above the bar from vaulted ceilings, against a backdrop of stained-glass windows.
There are roughly 20 beers available to try, including the Joppen Hoppenbier made using a recipe from 1501. Order the High Beer (€22.50) to taste three beers with accompanying dishes. It's filling enough to substitute a meal. Visit jopenkerk.nl
7. AL FRESCO DINING SPOTS CAN BE FOUND ALL OVER THE CITY
One of the best options is Restaurant Zuidam, with its terrace overlooking the Spaarne river. Housed in a former 1900s shipyard, the contemporary space follows a maritime theme with lanterns hanging from the ceiling and tables made from old fishing boats. In the summer, glass doors open onto the water and food - anything from catfish to apple pie - can be served directly to diners moored up in the boats. Visit restaurantzuidam.nl
Stena Line operates daytime and overnight sailings from Harwich to the Hook of Holland from £49 one way for a dutchflyer rail and sail ticket that allows onward travel to Haarlem. Visit stenaline.co.uk
For more information visit Holland.com
The Independent