Why leave the mainland?
Because, just offshore from Tuscany's rolling fields of vines and sunflowers, hill-top villages and fine cities, the region encompasses seven islands that few British travellers know about. The Tuscan Archipelago, lying in a broad arch off Tuscany's west coast, in the Tyrrhenian Sea, is Europe's largest protected marine park. The archipelago stretches from Gorgona in the north (almost on the same latitude as Florence) via Capraia, Elba, Pianosa, Montecristo, Giglio and Giannutri, close to Rome's port, Civitavecchia.
Most of the islands are accessible to tourists, with the exceptions of Montecristo, which is open only to marine research scientists, and Gorgona, the Mediterranean Alcatraz, home only to a large prison. Those visiting of their own volition, however, can expect idyllic beaches and a wide variety of activities both on- and offshore, providing a welcome new dimension to a typical Tuscan art-and-architecture tour.
By far the largest and best known is Elba, at which Napoleon Bonaparte arrived in May 1814.
A Napoleonic holiday?
No. After the disastrous War of the Sixth Coalition, the Corsican general was banished to the Tuscan isle, and kept under surveillance by British naval patrols. Napoleon did not simply relax and enjoy it. With the support of his loyal 500-strong guard, he became the emperor of the island. He implemented fundamental reforms to Elba's economy and infrastructure, reviving Elba's ancient iron mines and Medici fortresses, building roads, and modernising the agricultural and legal systems on the island. Rumour and intrigue brought him back to France nine months later, followed by the Hundred Days campaign through France and his eventual defeat at Waterloo.
The name of Napoleon resounds in island lore, and his two houses are well worth visiting. Both houses open 9am-7pm daily, except Sunday when they close at 1pm, admission €5 for both properties. The first, the Villa dei Mulini (00 39 05 65 915 846), is located in Portoferraio. Here, the baroque meets head on with enough Napoleon memorabilia to set up your own car-boot sale. It contains the original flag designed by Napoleon for the island, which features three golden bees on a diagonal red stripe.
The Bonaparte summer house, the Villa di San Martino, is no less grandiose, though the Napoleonic Museum within is lacklustre. It is located in the rolling hills, 5km south-west of Portoferraio, accessible by bus.
Will I find some Elba room?
Yes. While the island of Napoleon's temporary abode is small compared with Italy's main islands - Sicily and Sardinia - it is, in fact, Italy's third-largest offshore asset. It has been popular as a holiday destination for a couple of millennia; the ancient Romans were partial to the odd fortnight here.
Elba stretches a maximum of 30km from coast to coast, and has a permanent population of 30 000, spread throughout the island in picturesque coastal and mountain villages and a handful of larger towns. For the best chance of a peaceful island retreat, travel to the archipelago in the late summer, autumn or early spring; in high summer, Elba becomes a magnet for Italian families and fashionable Florentines trying, but failing, to get away from it all.
Portoferraio is where you get off the ferry from the mainland. Beyond the modern port, a charming Tuscan town rises up to the high cliffs cradled by the imposing Medici fortifications. Capoliveri, just beyond Portoferraio, has charm writ large in its cluster of tightly packed streets, and boasts three decent sand and shingle beaches below.
I crave peace and quiet
Try some of the other Tuscan islands. Being smaller and requiring a little more effort to reach, they have a more tranquil atmosphere than bustling Elba, although there are fewer hotels and rooms for rent, so advance booking is advisable, even in the shoulder months.
You could try Giglio, the second-largest island in the archipelago, which is growing in popularity with Italian holidaymakers. Accordingly, its beaches are becoming increasingly built up, but there is some way to go before the island could be considered spoiled. Most of the rugged coastline is raised from the water, and there is only one real sandy beach, at Campese, which is 2km long and marked by a somewhat phallic rock and overlooked by an intrusive Medici tower.
To escape, make for tiny Giannutri. Just 500m wide and 5km long, it provides a real adventure. Lined with grottoes and two beaches, there are no hotels and just one restaurant. However, you might persuade the owner of La Taverna del Granduca (00 39 338 468 4020), who is the island's unelected authority, whether you can stay. If not, this little island jewel makes for a great day out from Porto Santo Stefano on Monte Argentario.
Of course, you could escape the crowds on land by taking to the sea.
What are my options on - or under - the sea?
Crystal-clear warm waters and shipwrecks make the Tuscan islands a prime spot for divers. You can learn the basics with the Diving in Elba Centre in Portoferraio (00 39 347 563 7833); the Capraia Diving Service(00 39 05 86 905 137); and the Blue Scuba Diving Club(00 39 340 399 4648) in Giglio Porto. They also arrange equipment hire, and run trips to take divers into the heart of the archipelago, which is teeming with interesting marine life.
Keeping your head above water, the calm waves off the coast of Elba and the southern islands of Giglio and Giannutri create ideal conditions for snorkelling, canoeing and sailing. Indeed, Elba and Giglio are also top spots for an altogether smarter boating set - among the smart yachts dropping anchor at Elba's main town, Portoferraio, last year was the cruiser belonging to the top Italian fashion designer Roberto Cavalli.
Room for my designer towel?
The Tuscan islands are blessed with beautiful beaches, some sandy, some rocky, interspersed with grottoes and coves. In high season, though, you may have to head slightly off the beaten track in order to find a more spacious alternative to Elba's crowded shores. Either aim for the less built-up north-west side of the island, or make instead for the island of Capraia, which lies 32km north-west of Elba.
With only two inhabited areas - the port and the hilltop old town of Capraia Isola - this island is largely unspoilt, and much of it is protected from further development thanks to its National Park status.
Where can I get active on dry land?
Elba's mountainous interior is popular for both 37 mountain-biking and hiking, with the most challenging routes and spectacular views around Monte Capanne, Elba's highest peak, which stands at 1 018m above sea-level. Reaching the rugged summit from the nearby village of Marciana takes around two hours. The rewards make the effort well worthwhile. On a clear day, you can see across the 32km stretch of water to mainland Italy in the east, as well as to Corsica on the west and the smaller Tuscan islands nearby.
Keen hikers can extend their walk along the valley to Poggio. For those in pursuit only of the panorama, the top can also be reached by a precarious-looking cable car from the station at Marciana. It operates 10am-12.15pm and 2.30-6pm daily from June to September (until 5.30pm October to May), and the round-trip costs €12.
Mountain bikes can be hired from several places around the island, and specialist companies such as Costa dei Gabbiani(00 39 0565 9421) arrange guided trips for mountain-bikers.
And the other islands?
While not offering the same spectacular views as the Elban mountains, the island of Capraia provides ample scope for walking across its peaceful interior, with the opportunity to spot several unusual birds, including the rare Corsican gull.
On Giglio, hikers can undertake a satisfying 9km trek along a hilly ridge, from Giglio Castello to the island's most southerly point, Punta del Capel Rosso.
Something more cultural?
The Tuscan archipelago has a long and interesting history, and the sights to show for it. As well as the two spectacularly luxurious houses occupied by Napoleon during his stay (see box, right), Elba is home to some fascinating archaeology.
The Museo Archeologico, in Portoferraio (00 39 0565 937 241; daily 9am-3pm, 6pm-midnight, €3), contains Roman and Etruscan remains found on the island, including a chunk of Roman mosaic floor.
The uninhabited isle of Pianosa boasts the ruins of the Roman Agrippa villa. The remains tell a less well-known tale of exile: the banishment in AD6 or 7 of Postumus Agrippa, the disgraced grandson and ex-heir to the Roman Emperor Augustus. Exploring Pianosa is possible as a day-trip from Elba, with several local companies offering guided tours of the island that can usually be booked on the day.
Further south in the archipelago, visitors can explore Giglio's well-preserved medieval castle, which, in its hilltop setting, offers unrivalled views across the island.
Several of the Tuscan islands were also used as pawns in more relatively recent power-struggles between the Florentine Medici family and the Appiani of Piombino in the 14th and 15th centuries. Cosimo I de' Medici left his mark on Elba, constructing forts that dominate the skylines of Elba's towns.
The geological legacy of the ore-rich area can also be appreciated in the Elban town of Rio Marina, where there is a mineral museum and park (00 39 0565 962 088). It opens daily, 9.30am-12.30pm, 3.30-6.30pm from April-September (4.30pm-7.30pm in July and August); €2.50; and offers guided tours into the old mining areas for €13.50.
How do I get to the islands?
Very easily, these days. Plenty of UK airports have links to Pisa, with the most frequent services from Gatwick on British Airways and easyJet; and from Stansted on Ryanair. The airport is extremely close to the city, with a train link (or half-hour walk) to Pisa Centrale station.
From Pisa Centrale, the train takes a couple of hours (with a change at Campiglia Marittima) to the industrial port of Piombino. The station is right at the port, beside Piombino's ferry terminals.
Two large ferry companies - Moby (00 39 02 865 231) and Toremar (00 39 08 10 171998) - run hourly services between 6am and 9pm from Piombino to Porteferraio on Elba. Less frequently, they also serve the Elban towns of Porto Azzurro and Rio Marina. The journey to any of these destinations takes just over an hour and costs around €7 one way. To avoid the risk of a longer-than-anticipated banishment, book your return ticket in advance, as evening ferries back to Piombino can often be jam-packed.
Travelling to Pianosa from Elba typically takes around 45 minutes, but the trip across the emerald Tyrrhenian Sea is as enjoyable as the destination. Toremar also runs a daily ferry service to Capraia from Livorno - accessible by road or rail from Pisa - which takes two hours and costs €6.30.
The southerly island of Giglio can be reached in about an hour. Maregiglio ferries (00 39 0564 812 920) run almost every hour, while the Torremar ferry runs every three hours. Both companies operate from Porto Santo Stefano on the Monte Argentario Cape, further south down the E80 highway and across the Laguna di Orbetello, and buses run from the town of Orbetello to the port.
Giglio's tiny, privately owned, neighbour - Giannutri - can be seen on a day trip from Giglio, or in high season from Porto Santo Stefano itself.
How do I get around?
Buses operate in Elba and Capraia, fairly frequently in high season. Driving is not such a good idea: on Elba, you face the daunting combination of cliff-top roads and the frenetic local motoring style, and you need a permit to take a car on to the smaller islands.
Where should I stay?
Budget travellers are surprisingly well catered for, with a wide choice of low-price facilities around the coast of Elba. Given the climate, camping is popular: sites crowd the coasts near the popular resorts of Lacona and Marina di Campo on Elba, typically charging about €23 per day for a tent and a vehicle. Many sites include clubs and activities for children.
If you prefer not to pitch your own tent, Eurocamp has two sites on Elba, where a week's stay costs from around £260, excluding travel to Italy. These resorts are extremely popular with Dutch and German families, so need to be booked well in advance.
For camping on the smaller islands, head to Giglio's Baia del Sole (00 39 0564 804 036) in Giglio; or to Le Sughere (00 39 05 86 905 066) on Capraia, the only campsite on the island and open from May-September, where prices start at around €7 per day per person. An alternative for a low-cost visit is to hire an apartment or private room. These are available in most of the larger towns in Elba, and can be arranged through the Associazione Albergatori in Portoferraio (00 39 0565 914 754).
The tourist offices in Capraia (00 39 0586 905 071) and Giglio (00 39 0564 809 4000) can also recommend cheaper rooms to let on these islands.
A little more luxury?
If, like Napoleon, you want your stay to be one of extravagance rather than simplicity, several hotels in the archipelago should appeal. Park-Hotel Napoleon(00 39 05 65 911 1111) is a 19th-century mansion located next to the Emperor's summer house, with two swimming pools, tennis courts and access (by shuttle-bus) to a private beach. Double rooms start at €106 in early summer, rising to €238 in high season, including breakfast.
On Capraia, Il Saracino (00 39 05 86 905 018) is a four-star hotel in the town of Capraia Isola, with doubles starting at €120, including breakfast. On the isle of Giglio, Pardini's Hermitage(00 39 05 64 809 034) offers exclusivity, thanks to geography. This three-star hotel is set in the cove of Cala degli Alberi, and is accessible only on foot or by boat. The Hermitage opens from April to September, with doubles from €120 full board. Near Porto Ercole, on Monte Argentario, the secluded but lavish Pellicano(00 39 0564 858111) charges €341 per double, including breakfast.
Monte Argentario
Until about 200 years ago, this was the eighth island of the Tuscan Archipelago, but the tidal push and pull produced sand banks, finally joining the island to the mainland. Today, a causeway from Orbetello connects this large, rugged and rural outcrop to the southern edge of mainland Tuscany.
A longtime favourite summer destination among Rome's politicos, the glitzy Porto Santo Stefano is the usual combination of tiny fishing port and shop- and bar-hugged marina, packed with whiter-than-white super-yachts. The more intimate Porto Ercole is dominated by a couple of Spanish bastions, and there are some superb walks to be done, such as along the Tombolo di Feniglia, now a natural reserve that, along with the lagoon below, is the location of nearly half of all Italian resident and migratory bird sightings.
Eating out, island-style
Restaurants are plentiful along the harbour-front of Portoferraio, Porto Azzuro and Marino de Campo in Elba, and many serve freshly caught seafood, along with the usual pizza and pasta. A speciality worth trying is Elba's tasty wild-boar stew, served at several of the more traditional eateries in the island's main towns.
To get more value for your money, however, head inland. The charming mountain-top village of Capoliveri has a lively square on which there are several excellent restaurants, and one of the island's most chic nightspots, Sugar-Reef(00 39 338 917 9026) - a laid-back live-jazz bar - can be found nearby, at La Trappola.
Capraia, with just two towns, offers less culinary choice, but appetising seafood can still be found in many of the restaurants, including La Garitta (00 39 0586 905 230), near the castle. The most popular of Giglio's restaurants are those with quayside-views, such as Margherita in Giglio Porto (00 39 05 64 809 237).
Day-tripping from Florence or Pisa
It is certainly possible to visit Elba, Capraia or Giglio on a day trip from mainland Tuscany, though the infrequent ferries to Capraia or Giglio make careful planning essential.
Easiest, and most popular, for a day trip is Elba. The best itinerary would be first to explore the fortifications and visit Napoleon's house in Portoferraio, and then to head off to relax on one of the many idyllic beaches on the south-west coast of the island - particularly popular are Fetovaia, Cavoli and Marina di Campo.