Hipster brands have the king of razors on the run

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Published Apr 8, 2017

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Washington - The

razor business is all about the blades.

Get consumers

hooked on your razor, and they buy the highly profitable refill blades forever.

That seemingly

indestructible, high-margin revenue stream is what made Warren Buffett once

fall in love with Gillette, which dominates the global razor business with an

estimated 50 percent market share. Buffett became one of its largest

shareholders and added to his humongous fortune when the razor king was sold to

Procter & Gamble for $57 billion in 2005.

But Gillette's

dominance is now at risk, with lower-priced, private-label upstarts like Dollar

Shave Club and Harry's eroding market share that Gillette built over more than

a century.

Last week,

Gillette began across-the-board price cuts averaging 12 percent in an attempt

to halt the inexorable surrender of its men's razor business to the newcomers.

The Boston-based company, now a division of P&G, has seen its market share

drop from 70 percent in 2010 to 54 percent in 2016.

Barclays analyst

Lauren Lieberman said Gillette's moves are too late.

"We are not

assuming that there's any material change in the long-term trajectory of the

Gillette business as a result of these cuts," Lieberman said in an

interview Wednesday. "There is something about Dollar Shave and Harry's

... we are in a consumer environment where people like feeling they are making

a differentiated personalized choice. Small and niche is in vogue."

Gillette said

Wednesday its price offensive is hitting every part of its portfolio "as

we speak."

"We want to

be available at all price points that men are looking for and give them the

best shaving experience in that category, regardless of what they want to

spend," Gillette spokesperson Barbara Diecker said.

Diecker said

refill blades for the Gillette Fusion, for example, will drop from $4.99 to

$3.74 per blade, a savings of around 25 percent.

The company is

also recharging its longtime "18th Birthday Program" initiative, with

a goal of putting a Gillette razor handle and cartridge blade against the cheek

of every American male turning 18. Parent P&G has a strong relationship

with Amazon.com, which also helps the company's online sales, according to

industry observers.

"We are

fully aware of the challenges we are facing as a North American business,"

Diecker said.For decades, Gillette was focused on a trade-up model similar to

how General Motors encouraged its customers to start with Chevrolet and

eventually buy up to Cadillac. Gillette prided itself on every seven years or

so inventing new - and pricier - razors that would offer an even better shave.

"Gillette

was the only game out there for high-quality shave," Lieberman said.

"The idea was if you were a (Gillette) Sensor user, when they launched

Mach3, to get Sensors to trade up to Mach3. Then trade up from Mach3 to Fusion,

an even better shave. "That business model was always in place."

Rival Schick

disrupted Gillette's cycle several years back with its own innovations such as

the Quattro. Then along came the Dollar Shave Club, Harry's and even smaller

players such as 800razors.com.

"This is

not a new issue," Lieberman said. She said Gillette realized they needed

to emphasize lower price products, but they waited too long to launch them.

"If I go back to 2012, they were already losing share and it was before

the advent of the Dollar Shave Club."

The Wall Street

Journal, in a report this week on Gillette's price changes, said Gillette's

refill razors are $2 to $6 a cartridge when not in bulk, compared with $2 to

$2.75 for Schick per cartridge. Dollar Shave Club's cheapest refill razor cartridge

is 20 cents.

Publicly traded

Edgewell Personal Care Company, last year began selling a compatible refill

blade that fits Gillette's Mach3 handle after the Mach3 patent expired. The

refill is a fraction of the price Gillette charges.

Phil Masiello,

who founded 800razors.com and built its sales up to $2 million before selling

it to ShaveMob last year, said Gillette's strong online presence could help

halt the erosion if it is able to be price-competitive with its rivals.

"Gillette

makes a great shave," Masiello said. "Nobody has ever complained

about the great shave of Gillette and Schick. People only complained about the

price. You take the price difference out, all of a sudden they are back in the

game."

WASHINGTON POST

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