Cape Town - Passing the new chardonnay and young sauvignon vineyards, round the bend and up the hill, I was just in time to get the last parking bay near Buitvenverwachting’s restaurant.
Noon on a warm weekday and the place was buzzing, with German and Dutch the predominant languages among a sprinkling of British accents. My year is not complete without a visit to this most entrancing of Constantia farms, where history, fine wine, delectable fare and friendly, informed service meld to ensure happy memories.
Lars Maack joined us for lunch at Coffee BloC and over Caesar salad and aubergine gnocchi we caught up on developments. The extensive fire in the farm’s workshop has been offset by positive events.
First was the recent low-key launch of the cellar’s first potstill brandy, produced from a blend of merlot and cab franc, and matured for over five years in French oak. “We named it Richard, after my father,” said Lars, adding with a grin that it was after he had downed a few of his favourite brandy and Cokes back in the early 1980s that Richard Mueller bought Buitenverwachting, a deal sealed with a handshake.
The news that the 2013 Husseys Vlei attracted five stars in the new Platter guide is rewarding, and in fact both the cellar’s sauvignons are hugely appealing. Those who invested in the 2012 Husseys Vlei will reap the benefit this summer: it’s developed admirable depth, along with a long finish. The 2011 Maximus, an oaked sauvignon is another triumph, while the expressive, elegant 2010 Christine, a cab franc and merlot-led Bordeaux blend is a worthy leader of the reds.
The farm exports about half its production and early next year Maack leaves for the US for an extensive marketing trip. It was left to irrepressible cellarmaster Herman Kirschbaum to hint at the imminent release of the cellar’s first gin, a spirit which promises unique aromatics.
Chef Edgar Osojnik’s menu is a delectable potpourri of classic and rustic, with good vegetarian choices and lip-smacking desserts: his vanilla pannacotta with strawberry-balsamico sorbet is a finale to savour on sultry days.
With the festive season upon us, it’s time to celebrate with Buitenverwachting and TGW with fine prizes for wine-loving readers. Winners’ names will be published in my last wine column for Weekend Argus on December 27.
Sardinian cultivar to sparkle here
It’s been a memorable decade. Everyone who has met Michael and Attilio Dalpiaz at their enchanting Slent farm on the Paardeberg slopes, have become friends with this enterprising couple who exchanged life in Friuili, Italy, for a southern Africa adventure.
Last month they marked their 10th anniversary with a party that started with the planting of a vineyard of Vermentino, a white cultivar from Sardinia that is expected to thrive well in this part of the Paarl region. Fellow viticulturalist Augusto Fabbro brought samples from his home country to prove the point. The recent release of a pair of exciting blends also places Ayama firmly on the wine map: the Leopard Spot duo celebrates the sightings of adult and junior Cape leopards on the farm, the white melding chenin from old vines with a little chardonnay and viognier, while in the red, shiraz and pinotage benefit from a splash of mourvèdre. Both cost R75.
More in the Italian vein is the launch in this country of an extensive range of wines produced in Friuli and now available online from www.adriatic.co.za and some retail outlets. Fantinel whites include a pinot grigio and aromatic Sant’Helena collio bianco, while the three reds – cab, pinot grigio and friulano – are well-priced at R165.
A trio of bubblies is waiting to contribute to holiday festivities while those ready to raise the bar should sample the La Roncaia labels. Not to be outdone, Profumi D’Italia, established Italian importer of Bottega wines, has increased its bubbly range with two low-alcohol dessert sparklers. Vino Dell’Amore Moscato Spumante rosé (R190) and Vino Dell’Amore Petalo Pink Rosé Sparkling Wine (R400) both beg to be paired with biscotti or torta.
Weekend Argus