The most expensive meal I've ever had

Published Mar 12, 2009

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While in Lyon, France, to cover the Bocuse d'Or culinary competition, Jenny Kay couldn't pass up the opportunity to dine at the famous Paul Bocuse restaurant. Her lunch alone cost R2 080, but it was worth every agonising cent.

The restaurant, L'Auberge du Pont de Collonges, near Lyon, France, was not what I was expecting from a Michelin three-star establishment.

The red, green and gold exterior was loud, even gaudy, the interior was cosy and relaxing, and the staff were friendly.

Not at all an intimidating place.

Even the fact that it was the end of January and they still hadn't brought down their Christmas decorations endeared it to me.

While visiting France in January to attend the Bocuse d'Or contest, I was among six South Africans who booked for lunch at Paul Bocuse's restaurant, a 30-minute taxi ride outside Lyon in the village of Collonges.

When we arrived, we were a little taken aback by the large, building - it looked like something out of Hungarian folklore. As we pulled into the parking lot, we were greeted by a large mural of Bocuse at a window.

Other murals depicted gastronomic scenes, well-known chefs and food personalities, cockerels and dishes.

Being winter, the trees around the property were bare of leaves but covered in Christmas decorations, which also adorned lamps, hedges and the entrance.

The path leading to door was inlaid with plaques honouring all the winners of the Bocuse d'Or, with the 2009 winner just having been put in place that morning.

The interior was just as bright, and a pleasant surprise.

A large, elegant dining room, it had a warm, inviting fire at one end.

Restaurant manager Francois Pipala showed us to our table and made us feel very welcome.

The large menus were very impressive, all in French of course, and although I understood most of it Francois was happy to translate.

He explained that we could order off the a la carte menu, or choose one of three set menus, costing E130 (R1 706), E165 (R2 163) or E210 (R2 755).

I scanned the a la carte menu and found that the cheapest items were soup for E18 (R236) or a piece of cheese for E10 (R131).

My mind immediately began converting the prices to rands.

What the heck, I thought, this was a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity and while I was not bold enough to go for the most expensive option, I chose the E130 (R1 705) menu.

We placed our orders and chose a bottle of 2006 rosé at a hefty price of E65 (R852).

Francois must have seen how tense we were after looking at the prices because he arrived with a tray of kir royal (crème de cassis in Champagne) on the house.

One sip and I decided that it was my new favourite drink.

Looking at the table setting, we got the sense that Bocuse really knows how to market himself.

Every piece of crockery, cutlery, glassware and even the serviette ring was monogrammed with his name.

As an appetiser, we were all served a portion of cod fish and potato with a mini baguette. It was delicious, and a promise of things to come.

My starter was three versions of foie gras served with brioche - one in a terrine with pistachio nuts and encased in a thin layer of duck fat, one in aspic jelly and the third was a smooth pate which just melted on my tongue.

Fortunately there was a pause before the main course arrived, which gave us the chance to compare out taste experience.

It is usually at this time that Bocuse arrives to chat to diners.

Francois asked me to give him my camera so he could record the moment Bocuse came to our table.

The great chef was so sweet.

As he posed for pictures with everyone at our table, he chatted away in French, which we could not understand, of course.

He shook my hand, and I felt very privileged to meet him. I was in for another surprise.

He presented me with a signed copy of his beautiful menu as well as a poster of the Bocuse d'Or competition.

Francois said that although Bocuse is 83 years old, he still goes to the restaurant every day.

After all the fussing and posing for pictures, we were served a palate cleanser - a blackcurrant sorbet in red wine sauce presented in an elegant little silver bowl.

The flavour was so intense, and refreshing.

I chose fish for my main course, and was stunned when the waiter arrived carrying a big silver platter with a pastry case shaped like a fish and detailed with fins and scales.

It surely was not meant for one person, I thought. How would I eat the whole thing?

After showing me the platter, the waiter removed the pastry shell to reveal a whole sea bass inside.

He filleted the fish, and placed it on my place with some pastry and sauce.

Although it was a very generous portion, I manage to clean the plate, which I would come to regret.

After the main course, a large tray with a selection of cheeses was brought around. I limited myself to slices of just four - a goat's cheese, a creamy brie and two local white cheeses.

I planned just to taste each but when I looked again, I had finished the lot. They were all so delicious.

Next came a little crepe Suzette, and this was the pre-dessert! After that, I was feeling decidedly uncomfortable but, never one to skip pudding, I forged ahead and tackled the dessert trolley.

"You may have as many helpings of dessert as you like," said Francois. It was an incredible selection and I found it difficult to choose as all the desserts looked dazzling.

Eventually I chose the classic French dessert, "oeufs a la neige", which roughly translates to "snow eggs", but is also known as "floating island".

It consisted of poached meringue in a pool of crème anglais, drizzled with caramel.

The meringue had a marshmallow consistency and melted in the mouth, while the custard, made with real vanilla beans, was not too sweet.

But, wait, there's more, as the advert says.

Just when I thought I couldn't possibly eat another morsel, they brought round a delicate, three-tier stand of petit fours including beautiful pastel-coloured macaroons, fruit jellies and truffles. It was pure torture to look at the little cakes and have room for only three mouthfuls.

All in all, the atmosphere was not at all stuffy, and the staff made us feel very comfortable. I was able to enjoy the meal without feeling my every move was being observed and censured.

Before leaving, I visited the little shop where you can buy "Paul Bocuse" merchandise including jams, Champagne, plates, knives, and corkscrews, as well as every book he has written.

I also peeped into the kitchen, which had the most amazing collection of copper pots and jelly moulds I have seen.

The cost of my meal with a tip, coffee, water and a glass of wine came to E160 (R2 080) - certainly the most expensive but memorable meal I've had the pleasure of eating.

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