Gavin Rajah is a name that is synonymous with South African fashion. He’s showcased with the best of the best locally and abroad and has dressed a host of A-list celebrities including, most recently, Guess model and actress Candice Boucher, who made a stir at the recent Cannes Film Festival with a Rajah piece that left very little to the imagination. This weekend he returned to his home town of Durban to show off his latest range at the Fashion By The Sea event held at Moyo, dubbed The Homecoming.
Your rise in the fashion world has been quite impressive. Did you ever think that you’d go this far?
I think I set out to do well in the industry, to be a successful designer. That’s who I am. I always strive to do something well and make a success of it. However, that being said, I never expected (this level of success) at the beginning of my career. It has exceeded my expectations. What I like most is that I’ve been able to get my work across the borders of South Africa and have had many people appreciate it. It’s all well and good to have success at home, but you really grow when you are not confined to the borders of the country.
Fashion is a business where you need to have a strong support system to be a success. How did your parents react when you told them you wanted to do fashion?
I’m very lucky and blessed that I have amazing parents. I was nervous when I was starting out. I mean, you could have exceptional talent but without that emotional support, it can be a very difficult business. It’s good to know that I’ve always had their approval and one needs that sort of support to keep a level head at all times in business.
What was the most difficult thing that you faced while trying to get into the industry?
It wasn’t easy. I mean the fashion industry is so guarded and protected. Young designers have few supportive people in the industry and that’s why I always try to make a contribution to young designers who come to work with me in my studio, especially those that I can see have the potential to go far in the industry. Another obstacle I faced was the whole stereotype thing. Just because I am an Indian I was expected to design saris, which is really not what I am about at all. I was and still am aware of my background and culture, but that didn’t mean I couldn’t evolve and design high fashion.
Have you experienced any creative issues when it comes to designing your garments?
Thank goodness I’ve never experienced that. I do believe that you have to be in the right place, mentally and physically, to get the creative juices flowing. Personally, I find that being in a peaceful place, on holiday or just being alone will give one a whole lot of inspiration for a collection.
How has your latest menswear range been received?
I’ve been doing menswear for a long time. It’s just that I decided to focus more on the womenswear side of things. But doing menswear means a new client base and since I know I can do it – well, why not?
What frustrates you about the fashion industry?
One of my frustrations in the local fashion industry is that the people are just so fragmented and fragile. They don’t accept criticism, even if it’s constructive. It’s all about their ego. The industry is just so guarded, and that hinders possible collaborations that could, in essence, help our industry. I’d rather be in an open industry as I believe that there would be growth.
This was like a homecoming show for you. Is it always special for you to show at home?
Yes it is! Durban has always been a special place for me. I don’t have the opportunity to work from here, but the emotional attachment to Durban has always been there in my garments, especially when using colour. Being in the city evokes sweet memories of childhood, being young and carefree. (Big sigh) Life was so simple then…
What’s your favourite place in Durban?
You know, when I drive around Durban I realise that so much has changed in the city. It’s amazing to see the new places. Even on Florida Road, people are engaging with each other. I would love to see more people out and about, talking and having fun. Different races too. When I come to Durban it’s always great to see how people function. It’s like you are in your own time zone and the brain automatically goes on auto pilot. I love that about Durban because it’s a relaxed environment.
What do you miss most?
The warm ocean! (Chuckles) You guys are lucky. But I miss the whole city, the people, the diverse cultures, and just a 40-minute drive away is the Natal Midlands. It’s a place where I can enjoy music, theatre, culture. Granted, Cape Town has more arts events happening than in Durban, but over here there’s that authentic quality about it.
When you were showing in Paris for the first time, what was going through your head?
Oh, but 2006 was a long time ago. But what I do remember was that I did the show and I then had to host a dinner, which I didn’t stay for because I was tired. But I had back-to-back interviews with foreign press and it seemed that Paris had embraced me. It was a surreal moment and, when you think about it, some of the media who attend Paris Fashion Week are not easy to please and are pretty harsh. So for me to have pleased them felt great. It was a liberating feeling actually.
What are your thoughts of the South African fashion scene?
(Sighs) People are doing interesting things, but the thing is people have this warped view of what fashion is about. As much as it’s about creativity and art, it’s a business and we need to start realising that. Designers need to do more things for their brands, to empower them in order for them to be in business. Frankly, I’m tired of all these bodies and councils being formed. Us designers must take a stand and control our industry. We can’t just allow other people to take control of the industry without us designers having a say on how it’s run.
Do we have too many fashion weeks?
Well I used to own one… Cape Town Fashion Week. Anyway, I don’t believe that one can just have a fashion week. I think they should be for established brands whose work is at a certain level and is ready for export. Staging a fashion show with mediocre talent doesn’t do anything for the industry, the designer or the country. So what’s the point?
Any new designers that have stood out for you?
They are not new designers. However, Thula Sindi and Craig Jacobs have done a great job and they understand what the fashion business is about and that’s always refreshing. - Sunday Tribune