How to find the right bra

One hundred girls pose wearing the new Wonderbra Multiplunge bra in the National Portrait Gallery in London

One hundred girls pose wearing the new Wonderbra Multiplunge bra in the National Portrait Gallery in London

Published Jul 19, 2011

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Auckland - Okay ladies, there are two garments we wear every day (well, most of us do) and that is knickers and a bra. Like the foundations of a building, if we don't get them right, nothing we put on top will look any good.

Yet leading bra manufacturer Bendon reports that most of us are wearing the wrong size bra - and not only does it affect our appearance and ruin the look of our clothes, it can be uncomfortable and responsible for problems with skin, back and posture as well as causing aching breasts.

Now, bras have been around for a long time. Way back in 1907, the word “brassiere” first appeared in Vogue magazine, when couturier Paul Poiret encouraged Parisian women to discard corsets in favour of the bra because they worked better under his loose new silhouettes. A radical move, indeed.

But it was American socialite Mary Phelps Jacobs who had the insight to create her own bra in 1913 out of ribbon and silk handkerchiefs. She was granted the first US bra patent the following year.

Over the past 100 years, thanks to advances in fabrication and design technology, the bra has evolved radically. In 1937 nylon was used for the first time; in 1955 the good people at DuPont developed Lycra, resulting in much-welcomed comfortable bras with a bit of give.

Back in 1964 the Wonderbra came on the scene, adding cleavage for those lacking in that area. It made a radical comeback in 1994 when supermodel Eva Herzigova headed up the “Hello Boys” advertising campaign.

The first sports bra was invented in 1977 and in 1997 a circular knitting machine meant they could be made without seams.

And it's thanks to Madonna in the 1985 movie Desperately Seeking Susan and her 1990 Blonde Ambition tour, where she wore Jean Paul Gaultier's conical bra, that underwear became a fashion statement that could be worn to be seen.

So, the humble bra you put on each day has an impressive history. The question to ask yourself is: Are you giving it the respect it deserves? Take a look under your top right now. When did you buy the bra you are wearing? Can't remember. What colour is it?A dirty grey after too many washes. Do you fill the cups? Are the straps cutting into your shoulder? Or is the elastic completely shot?

Don't worry, you're not alone. A recent survey by Lycra in Britain revealed that the majority of women still wear the wrong-sized bra, with one-third saying they felt undersupported and one-quarter saying they've never found what they were looking for ina bra.

Here in New Zealand, personal shopping and fitting services are the essential first stop when you're looking to buy a new bra. Their staff are fully trained, experienced fitters who can clock at 3m whether your bra is right for you.

“When you've been wearing the same bra for a long time, it's easy to overlook that it's not fitting correctly,” explains Ann Harray, the Intimate Apparel Buyer for Smith& Caughey. “People don't notice that their bras in decline and that the cups and straps feel loose and stretch. It's not until they put on a new one that they can see the incredible difference. A well-fitted bra can enhance your posture and silhouette. It will make your clothes sit better and overall be more flattering.

“A lot of women also still think that because they were, maybe, a 12C in their early 20s that they are still that size. They forget that they've probably had a family, lost weight or put on weight, or that their body shape has changed. In fact, your breast size fluctuates even throughout the month.”

Harray recommends that ideally, every time you buy a new bra you should have it fitted. Unless, perhaps, if you're buying exactly the same bra as you already have.

“You really need to be resized and refitted because there are so many different brands available now and they all have slightly different sizes and fittings to them. You can't really just buy something straight off the rack,” says Harray.

“The exciting thing is that there is now a bra for everyone - for every shape, every size, every age, every occasion. So there's no excuse not to have the right one.”

And if you're worried a bra-fitting will be a nightmare session trapped in a tiny room - think again! Harray is passionate about ensuring the experience of buying a new bra is a positive one.

“It's important for a woman to feel safe and secure when she is trying on a bra. It is quite an intimate thing, being with a stranger half-naked, so we have robes they can wear, buttons they can push in the changing rooms so they don't have to come out, and we are very sensitive to ensure they feel comfortable.”

So how many bras does a girl need? Well, at least three, suggests Harray. A smooth-lined T-shirt bra that sits smoothly under fitted garments, a sports bra which provides extra support when you exercise and something pretty and feminine that you can wear under blouses or dresses that don't need a smooth look. That covers the basics.

From there you can get bras to suit the demands of specific outfits - narrow straps, no straps, a low cleavage, a racer back... When it comes to colour, black and white are your basics, and nude is essential - it's the only colour to wear under white.

But as leading fashion writer for Britain's Sunday Telegraph Hillary Alexander recently claimed, “drab black and white basics just won't do.Women now want a lingerie wardrobe with patterns for every mood... even when no one else can see it”.

Underwear has never been more fashionable and fun. With the runway showing more and more sheer clothing, interesting designs from the flowing to the tailored, your bra and knickers can no longer be an afterthought. So treat yourself. You'll be amazed how fabulous you'll feel and look.

THE BEST BRA FOR YOU

Padded: These are great for those who want to increase their overall bust size. They're also good under tight tops if you don't want your nipples to show through.

Underwire: This is any bra constructed with curved wires underneath the breast for extra support.

Push-up: The way to create cleavage. Most are underwire bras with extra pads that you can slip in for extra boost.

Demi cup: Rather than a full cup, that encloses the whole breast, these have half cups with wide-set straps that push in from the sides. Great for A or B cups who have trouble filling out a full cup.

Soft cup: These do not have underwire and should fit properly to avoid a saggy cup. Good for those who don't need a lot of support.

Sculpted cup: Designed to hold their own shape,so give your breasts a rounder, fuller look.

Seamless: Bras that are completely smooth and the cups have no seams. Good for under tight tops.

Minimiser: It works to lift and spread the breasts, slightly flattening them. Good for fuller-breasted women.

The U bra: This has a very deep cleavage to allow you to wear low-front tops whilst also supporting your breasts.

IF IT DON'T FIT, DON'T FORCE IT

The lingerie experts at Bendon share their solutions to the most common bra problems:

Bulging Bust? A bulging bust creates unsightly curves in the wrong places. It will ruin your outfit, not to mention causing red marks and sore skin. Bulging busts, which create the “double-breasted” look are usually caused by a bra which is too small, especially in the cup area. To remedy this, get measured and fitted regularly as many women do not realise their bust size can change.

Wrinkles on your cup? If the fabric on your bra cup wrinkles, it is probably because there is too much fabric - which means it's too big for you. A well-fitted bra should fit smoothly over your bust without excess fabric showing. Your cup size should be measured accurately to ensure a smooth fit.

Bra riding up? Your bra should be level front and back. If it rides up, it's not supporting your breasts properly. This is probably due to the underband being too large and can be remedied by being measured so your correct back size can be determined.

Digging in? Bras that dig in cause major discomfort and affect your posture - even mood! This can be caused by ill-fitting underwires and straps, leaving tell-tale red marks on the skin. Initially, ensure that you have the correct-sized bra after being measured properly, but also pay attention to fitting, which is often overlooked. Adjustable straps should be correctly positioned and underwires should be flat against the contours of your bust.

Visible Straps? Solution: It's important to look good as well as feel good when going out. With the numerous party dress styles available - such as halterneck, backless and strapless - it is often difficult to find the appropriate underwear to match. Ask for advice on the the correct style of bra for your outfit. So whether it's an underwire or strapless bra you need, you'll feel confident in your appearance. For more tips on what bra is right for you, go to www.bendonlingerie.co.nz . - The New Zealand Herald

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