Africa’s only menswear-focused fashion showcase, the fifth edition of the Lexus SA Menswear Week, took place this month at The Palms in Woodstock. I chatted to three designers whose work was among those that stood out, about their collections and inspiration.
Jenevieve Lyons
South Africa
Collection name: de-frag-mented (undated)
Tell us about the concept behind your collection?
The collection was an amalgamation of my two previous collections: Macula Autumn/Winter 2016 and Deferential Spring/Summer 2017.
Both these collections carry immense relevance internationally , allowing us to showcase Macula Autumn/Winter 2016 in Helsinki, in Finland, at the end of last year.
We felt that a revisit would be pertinent, thus seeing the opportunity for de-frag-mented to arise as a collection.
The collection was therefore presented in the manner of an artistic installation showcasing a concise, five-look collection featuring all the campaign models from our previous two collections.
They were initially disguised behind a stocking, which was later cut open to reveal their faces, and this was intended to tell a visual parable to intrigue fashion-lovers, compelling them to think, wonder and ponder about the reasoning and also reminisce along with us, all three stories in one.
How important is Fashion Week for you?
The mission of our brand is to tell parables through our fashion - to take it so much further than just clothes.
As a South African designer uniting to build our industry and African fashion’s identity; and to pull this clichéd identity of “ethnic” and print to a more modernistic view that can be placed next to an international brand and be understood globally.
So the importance of realising cultural, social, political and environmental issues within a fashion context to educate and build renewed perspectives on the African fashion industry is imperative.
Where do you go to seek artistic inspiration?
I am aware of my surroundings at all times - politically, socially, news-driven, culturally - all in all to be tapped into the zeitgeist every day, at every moment. I find inspiration in organic places.
I will experience or witness something or someone that will spark interest, and this interest links up within my fashion forecasting stream.
Nicholas Coutts
South Africa
Tell us about your A/W17 collection you presented at the Lexus SA Menswear Week?
For this collection, I drew inspiration from South Africa’s diverse culture combined with a strong 1970s influence.
I aimed to create fresh and dynamic garments that the contemporary man can wear while making a subtle impact.
There are glimpses of metallic touches of texture running through the collection. The colours give a warm and happy atmosphere, and sophisticated tailoring.
My collaboration with House of Grace design (macrame bags) and milliner Crystal Birsch for the hats added a vibrant and innovative mood which energised the collection.
Styling for the collection was by Peter Georgiades. He brought a fresh approach to the styling and another point of view to the collection.
It was important for me to collaborate this season to empower both myself and those that I collaborated with.
What were the first steps you took in the fashion world?
My interest in fashion was sparked from an early age. I come from a creative family who have been supportive in my career from the beginning.
After studying fashion design for three years, I worked learning different aspects of fashion industry before starting my own brand.
What is it like working for yourself and who is your dream client?
I work with a pattern maker and a seamtress, and it’s quite lonely sometimes. It’s challenging as I have to do it all, from PR to
overseeing garment construction to designing. However, in the end, the final product is very rewarding.
Mai Atafo Atalier
Nigeria
Collection name: Me
Tell us about your Lexus SA Menswear AW’17 showcase?
Me is a collection that describes my journey from when I was 19 years to this present day. In my early years, hand-downs from my siblings and shopping second-hands because one couldn’t afford cool new clothes made up my wardrobe.
Added to this was my need to stand out by reinventing these pieces through reconstructing or sometime deconstructing them.
Hand print by Dricky_ helps tell a literal story (my first fashion collaboration).
The base of all this was my love for denim, velvet, corduroy (ridged velvet) suede and camouflage print.
I also used houndstooth (a pattern with notched corners suggestive of a canine tooth) which I consider to be the most technical check pattern, which could be fun and serious at the same time.
Tie and dye for character and the obvious knitwear just because it’s Autumn/Winter and Verraomo is amazing as she knits herself.
In the past few years, my love for tuxedos led to a path where I can respect the dress-code and also give it twist, which is subtly visible by the velvet taping on the trousers matching the jacket fabric
(velvet) rather than the conventional
trouser tapping matching the lapel of the tuxedo jacket.
Not to forget the smoking jacket with our trademark shawl peck lapel (like all the tuxedos in the collection) with houndstooth trousers rather than the traditional tartan checks.
For once, the collection wasn’t about predicting consumer trends but one that’s truly me and what I love.
The fashion industry is very competitive. What sets your brand apart?
As bespoke tailor and fashion designer, what sets me apart is
fine tailoring, fit, quality and ability to create garments that
incorporate this with edge and fashion forward design, which sets us apart.