Paris - With prohibitively expensive gowns, some outrageous hats and some heavy-duty star power on show, Paris Couture Fashion Week got off to a flying start with strong showings at Dior and Chanel and a rare appearance by Naomi Campbell on the catwalk at Atelier Versace.
Versace, which kicked off the star-studded fashion extravaganza, offered daring dresses in Chantilly lace and silk tulle in a muted palette dominated by black but enlivened with deep forest green, navy and oxblood.
Sheer inserts and plenty of sequins ramped up the voltage while silhouettes were nipped in and finished with scoop necks and Donatella Versace’s trademark mermaid’s tail trains.
Another designer to go for serious glamour was former costume creator Alexis Mabille, whose gorgeously colourful collection highlighted his operatic roots.
Particularly eye-catching was a stunning crimson gown in draped silk and a delicate pale blue cape accessorised with an enormous bow that wouldn’t have looked out of place in Madame du Pompadour’s closet.
Also impressing the critics and showing off his mastery of colour was Raf Simons, the former Jil Sander designer who is just a year into his stint at Christian Dior. His international collection was split into four “realms”, with frocks inspired by Africa, Europe, Asia and the Americas.
Most recognisably Dior was Europe, which included the classic strapless ballgowns so typical of the label, and the Americas, which had a sportier, more casual feel and came complete with several pairs of well-cut trousers.
Asia, too, had a pared-back feel with its pure sihouettes and pagoda sleeves in minimal white and cream, while Africa brightened up the catwalk with its intarsia prints, eye-catching colour and Maasai-inspired beadwork.
Although Simons and Mabille went bright, they were two of the few to do so. Again and again, classic winter white, cream, charcoal and black appeared on the runway, not least at Chanel, where Karl Lagerfeld made an apocalyptic statement in muted silver and dove grey.
Not that the limited palette produced a demure effect: Lagerfeld cinched in waists and added sheer panels with a vengeance, producing a result that said grown-up glamour rather than girlishly cute.
Elsewhere, Schiaparelli made a return to form with a fabulously retro collection that owed more than a little to Dior’s iconic 1947 “New Look” with its boxy jackets and swishing skirts.
The effect was heightened with wonderful marabou fascinators in shocking pink and black, while neat grey and white stripes lent bell skirts a modern edge.
Designer Christian Lacroix added drama with pom-poms and striped rosettes, and also showed a bizarre triangle hat that didn’t quite manage to detract from the wonderfully full skirted gown below.
French designer Christophe Josse also took inspiration from the 1930s and 1940s, sending beautifully tailored coats with furry collars and skirt suits with neat, nipped-in waists down the catwalk.
Dresses, too, had a 1930s silhouette, cut on the bias with hemlines dropped well below the knee. Delicate draping added elegance, while accessories were kept to a minimum.
Particularly lovely was the couture collection from Italian designer Giambattista Valli, who sent a slew of delicately embroidered dresses down the runway in hues of white, cream and the palest dove grey. Crafted from Chantilly lace and silk, the demure dresses had an ethereal feel – heightened by the odd flash of lavender, some dramatic oversized bows and the tiny embroidered flowers dotted around throughout.
Another designer to champion monochrome was Stephane Rolland, although unlike Valli the Frenchman chose to keep things minimalist with the focus on the silhouette rather than embellishment.
As a result, Rolland’s frocks were Calvin Klein-like in their purity and clean lines, with the designer restraining himself to just two hues: classic black and chic winter white.
Outside the shows, the A list were out in force, with Jennifer Lawrence, Gemma Arterton and Olivia Palermo appearing front row at Dior while Uma Thurman, Zachary Quinto and Mena Suvari all turned out to support Donatella Versace. – Daily Mail