Peruvian cuisine has many influences – from its indigenous population as well as those imported by immigrants from Europe, Asia, and West Africa.
Charango has done very well with what is on hand here. The four traditional staples – corn, potatoes, quinoa, and legumes – are represented, as are pork, chicken, beef, and ceviche.
The “house” ceviche, usually a white fish said our waiter Aime, is served with butternut, corn, chilli, and coriander with aji limo(a pepper) leche de tigre. Leche de tigre translates directly to “tiger’s milk” and refers to the citrus juices in which the fish is “cooked”. The Rainbow sea bass is made with beetroot and jalapenos, and for vegetarians there are courgettes and cucumbers with shiitake mushrooms, mint, garlic, chilli and miso.
Exploring Japanese influences we had seared tuna tataki (R70) which sent Sexy Deborah into a state of ecstasy. The fish was dressed with pickled ginger, miso, mayo, sesame oil, and caviar. My “new style” tiradito (R60) was quite similar, also tuna, but with grapes, tiny cylinders of crispy rice, tabiko(flying fish roe), crispy slaw, and uva(grape) leche de tigre. Both beautifully presented and utterly divine and mine in particular, a wonderful combination of textures.
A friend happened also to be dining there and offered some advice: order mainly from the small portion/starter segment of the menu and give the main courses a miss. Aime suggested the same thing, telling us most of the dishes are portioned and designed to be shared easily between two people. We listened to both, and added dirt-rubbed tuna taco (R85), a portion of four. Inside the soft little tacos with the tuna are guacamole, tomato, wasabi, and slaw. I clean forgot to ask what the dirt part is all about but damn, they were good.
The initial intention had been to follow this with main courses: BBQ chicken with chimichurri and chipotle mayo, and lamb cutlets with chilli, aubergine, corn, paprika and parmesan. Then we saw the noisy table next to us being served another kind of taco. Pork, as it turned out. These are not on the menu and usually available only at lunchtime. Occasionally the chef serves them at night. Aime had forgotten to tell us, but remedied the situation by presenting us a portion (R75). Again, delicious – sweet, creamy pork with apple slaw and just a hint of chilli.
After that we were almost perfectly sated with just enough room to share a dessert, so we cancelled the main course orders without regret. We finished with toasted quinoa (pronounced “keen-wa”) creme topped with bruléed bananas and rum butterscotch sauce (R55).
To drink we had begun with pisco sours. Pisco is a colourless or yellowish-to-amber brandy from the wine-making regions of Peru and Chile. The basic one has pisco, lime juice, egg whites, bitters, and is sweetened with Xylitol. Sexy Deborah had the chilli chocolate one, which knocked her at the back of her throat. Matt the manager brought out the new watermelon version, which is going on the summer menu – sweet of him.
The bill for our excellent meal came to R500 on the dot before a tip for the exemplary Aime.
CHARANGO
Where: 114 Bree Street, Cape Town.
Phone: 021 422 0757
When: Tuesdays to Saturdays lunch 12pm till 3pm, dinner 6pm till late