Garden Route – Having spent much of my childhood enjoying road trips up the Garden Route, there are only so many work-related matters I can deal with before that craving for another coastal exploration begins to gnaw at my soul.
The Kouga territory stretches along the coast from the Tsitsikamma River in the west to Van Stadens River in the east, and inland towards the Baviaanskloof Mountains in the north. It is time to explore its inner beauty more thoroughly.
The N2 pierces through the heart of the Tsitsikamma bush, offering the occasional spotting of bushbuck or other forest residents, but it’s only when you turn off the highway and draw open the luscious green forest curtain that the true meaning of this hidden gem is justly exposed.
Tsitsikamma is the Khoisan word for “place of much water”. As we enter the gates of the national park and meander through the ever-green shrubberies towards the true blue Indian Ocean, it is evident how its name originated. Breakers pound the rocky shores beneath high cliffs, where ancient rivers have carved their path to the ocean through rocky ravines.
Nestled at the foot of the cliffs and a mere 150m from Stormsriver mouth, Untouched Adventures afforded us the opportunity to explore this river (where the five-day otter trail commences) by kayak. We enthusiastically kitted up and prepared to paddle across the small stretch of ocean, hoping to be swallowed up by the river mouth.
Bobbing feverishly in the swell we paddled under the stares of holidaymakers perched on a suspension bridge that runs overhead and marks the entrance to the gorge. The sound of crashing waves softened as we paddled beyond the gazes and chatter from above, replaced instead by the tranquility of dripping mountain waterfalls piercing the ever-still waters of the gorge.
Further upstream ancient caves, once inhabited by San people, stretched hundreds of metres back into a dark abyss and seemed to absorb any echoes created by our paddles dipping into the water. It was here we exchanged the kayaks for lilos and continued splashing upstream, where we found some icy pools to plunge into from the rocks that surrounded them. Feeling rejuvenated, we slowly drifted back to the ocean, before heading back from whence we had come.
The rain forest-type vegetation gives the Tsitsikamma its unique character. Much life lies deep within its foliage and it is only through the advent of advanced camera technologies that the once thought-to-be-extinct Knysna forest elephants have been exposed in recent video footage.
Knowing that an animal this size could be “lost” for years in the forest, we could not wait to explore a bit of the jungle. What better way to do this than by Segway, a self-balancing, two-wheel human transporter. Tsitsikamma Backpackers runs daily Segway excursions into the forest and it is recommended that you make use of their well-constructed obstacle track in their back yard to find your balance before embarking on the forest paths. Bustling along the varying terrains at a gentle pace provided much elation as we took in the scenery of greenery before proceeding on our coastal adventure.
Jockey in Jeffrey’s Bay
Glancing out over the aloes from the wooden deck and amphitheatre-type feel from the famous carpark, it’s not hard to imagine the drama of the great surfing contests that have graced these shores in the past playing out in front of you. But really, the magic of this town is found in the people who have made it their home. We are soon introduced to Alison, who heads up the Supertubes conservation initiative.
Her projects not only deal with recycling, beach clean-ups and local plant protection, but also involve the community in a number of these ventures. It is evident that her passion behind the scenes is what drives the sustained beauty of this endangered coastline.
Stomach rumblings turned us towards De Viswijf restaurant, a lovely family venue nestled above another classic J-Bay surfing beach, aptly named Kitchen Windows. Some argue whether the surf spot or restaurant came first, but I am sure owner Ernie Blignault will indulge you in this and other “Viswijf stories” while you enjoy the delectable dishes on offer from the unique positioning of this award-winning restaurant.
Feeling gratified after a scrumptious lunch we mosied on toward the eastern side of Jeffrey’s Bay to a horseriding school, Featherfoot Horse Rides, in Kabeljouws. They offer a variety of trails for beginners to more accomplished riders, and provide everything one needs for a horseback adventure.
The skill level of our group varied significantly, so we opted for a gentle trot along the beach. Sandwiched between the lagoon and incoming tide, the well-trained horses kept pace with one another before turning back and allowing the more experienced riders to break into a gallop home.
I sat at a contented trot and watched the sun begin its descent into the ocean, causing the sea and lagoon to glitter simultaneously before pausing for a moment, as if to give the photographers among us the chance to capture some exquisite shots of these golden minutes.
Supertubes conservation initiative
“A village within a village” is the impression you get walking among the secluded villas and self-catering bed and breakfast units found within Cape St Francis resort.
With direct access to a long stretch of untouched coastline and an award-winning restaurant and bar on site (Joe Fish) there seems no reason to go any further if you are looking for some rest and relaxation. Stencilled into the horizon is Seal Point Lighthouse, which at 27.5m high is South Africa’s tallest masonry lighthouse.
As with Jeffrey’s Bay, it is the people who really shape the character of this seaside town. Actively pursuing responsible tourism, Betty’s Tours provides a glimpse into the everyday life of those in the area. You can visit Sanccob penguin rehabilitation centre, Talhado’s children’s haven and Nomvula’s Knitters, an initiative started to empower woman from the nearby township by creating a sustainable income and imparting business skills in the clothing industry.
By night the glow of fishermen’s lamps, strapped to fishing vessels, decorate the bay, which is widely renowned for its chokka (squid/calamari.) The Chokka Trail offers the more active traveller the chance to explore the region on foot over four days of slackpacking.
Blow hole
The trail opens up the Sandriver dunes, Oyster Bay, St Francis Bay and the coastal paths which weave among a treacherous coastline responsible for many a shipwreck in years past, commonly referred to as “The Wild Side” of Cape St Francis.
We were fortunate enough to time the tides well enough to see a natural blowhole, created from waves gushing through a gully, powerfully forcing through a small opening and creating a fountain which showered all those who had crept close enough.
After a great day filled with wonderful conversations and tough walking it seemed only appropriate to enjoy a calamari feast, overlooking the harbour at Port St Francis, with our new friends who had endured the day’s activities with us.
After a good day’s exercise Liquid Lines, a new sports facility in Cape St Francis, offers just the set-up to deal with the lactic acid build-up.
Haydn Holmes, recently back from Dubai, has a state-of-the-art aquatics facility that some will use to begin their training for the gruelling Iron Man series in March each year.
However, those with any kind of aquatic ability are also welcome here and it is well worth visiting on your day off.