Following in Shackleton's footsteps

Published Feb 5, 2016

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South Georgia, Antarctica - It's always gratifying when the fat guy gets his girl; proof there's someone out there for everyone.

But the two supersized suitors currently engaged in battle are equally repulsive, and the object of their affections isn't much better.

Looks aside, beachmasters will fight to the bitter end to retain control of their precious harems. Watching two elephant seals joust like medieval knights in a tournament is something few people witness first-hand.

I've joined Canadian expedition cruise company One Ocean on an exciting new voyage to sub-Antarctic island South Georgia, visiting in October, long before any other ships arrive.

Located 2 150km from the southern tip of South America and a day and a half sailing from the Falkland Islands, this remote British Overseas Territory is teeming with wildlife. It also has important historical significance; this is where Antarctic explorer Sir Ernest Shackleton finally reached civilisation on an epic survival mission following the failure of his Endurance expedition.

This year marks the centenary of that event, and One Ocean will be offering adventurous guests the chance to replicate his 26-mile trek across South Georgia on skis.

Most of the 7 000 annual tourists visit as part of a longer itinerary to Antarctica, but a two-week trip allows us time to tackle tricky landing sites and explore in greater depth.

We spend six glorious hours at the majestic St Andrews Bay, home to the world's largest king penguin colony. Nearly 300 000 of the regal, golden-crowned birds trumpet call incessantly against a backdrop of snow-streaked mountains and the icy tongue of the Cook glacier, unfurling into the South Atlantic Ocean.

It's life-affirming to know a place this pure still exists on Earth.

Other highlights, of which there are many, include being almost taken out by a fleet of low-flying sooty albatross at Elsehul, and watching the sunrise at Gold Harbour as king penguins play in the surf.

Our final excursion is to Drygalski Fjord, a sculpture garden of icebergs resembling the fine gills of a portabello mushroom or a giant slab of Grana Padano cheese.

Lenticular clouds form in the charcoal sky as katabatic winds whip up and snow petrels - one of only three birds that breed exclusively in Antarctica - skim the crests of rising waves, flashes of white against the icy blue.

The storm triggers our retreat and we head west around South Georgia's most southerly point, Cape Disappointment - so-named by Captain Cook in 1775 when he realised with dismay that this was an island and not the fabled seventh continent Antarctica.

How times have changed. Today a trip to this sub-Antarctic treasure is anything but a letdown.

The 16-night South Georgia In- Depth voyage on October 15 costs from £8 697 (about R189 000) sharing a twin cabin and including a flight from Punta Arenas to the Falkland Islands, all meals and accommodation on board and foul weather gear.

Visit oneoceanexpeditions.com

The Independent

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