Lisbon - You've barely arrived in Ponta Delgada, the capital of the Azores, and the recommendations begin.
The welcoming islanders of São Miguel are the best kind of trip advisers. They look you in the eye, say “eat at A Tasca”, and mark the location on your map with an X.
With luck you will drift past the tavern (at Rua do Aljube 16) as you explore the squiggles of lanes in the historic heart of Ponta Delgada -all basalt and marble, like a crooked urban chessboard. You can peer in to the premises to get a glimpse of the distressed timber furniture. Book for the evening, so you can breeze in at around 7.30pm, past all the hopefuls waiting patiently, who were urged to dine there but failed to book (calling 00 351 296 288 880 if need be). Your appetite now whet, wander off to explore some more.
A photo posted by @drnazancihan on Apr 19, 2016 at 12:01pm PDT
Ponta Delgada is the hub of the Azores -the nine mid-Atlantic islands that are sufficiently part of Europe to feature on euro notes. The archipelago's main airport appeared on the nofrills route map from Stansted exactly a year ago. It takes about 40 minutes to walk in from the airport (named for John Paul II) to appreciate the way the volcanic terrain softens as it declines towards the coast.
The city provides shelter for the fishing fleet, plus hardy yachtsmen and women on transatlantic journeys. Head inland from the waterfront, through the city gate, to find whitewashed cottages with terracotta rooftiles that trail the island''s imposing monuments of church and state.
Venturing further afield is easy; São Miguel is the size of Anglesey, yet rather more topologically exciting thanks to its crumpled volcanic landscape. From Ponta Delgada, nowhere is too far away, so you can head off on an afternoon jaunt to enjoy scenery that rivals the best in Europe. The standard mode of transport is a custard-coloured Mercedes taxi, at an implausibly low fare, driven courteously along improbably good roads (no chance of an Azorexit, given the infrastructure benefits that EU membership has conferred).
To the east, you can climb through palms and pines to Lagoa do Fogo, then plunge into the “lake of fire” to cool off, or borrow a bike and pedal off in search of waterfalls. To the west, Sete Cidades comprises seven volcanic craters, including two that have become lagoons: one deep green, the other shining bright blue.
As the light lingers at the end of the day, your table, surrounded by modern art and ancient tiles, awaits. A beer to sink as the sun does, fresh tuna with sesame, medium rare, and a generous glass of Dao wine -it's all yours for £10, including a tip. Any room here tomorrow?
Travel essentials
Simon Calder paid €127 (about R2 400) a night, including breakfast, for a family room at the São Miguel Park Hotel (00 351 296 301 880; bensaude.pt), which overlooks the city.
The Independent