Harare - They walked in single file past the diningroom/lounge area of our campsite on the banks of the Zambezi River in Zimbabwe.
Six elephants – a bull, four females and a calf.
The bull, which had summoned his family with a short, sharp trumpet call, led them deep into the fast-flowing river until all clearly visible were the tips of their trunks. The current took them rapidly downstream for about 200m before they got out on an island to spend the day grazing on reeds.
What an awesome sight, what a privilege to have seen it from such close quarters at Ruckomechi Camp, situated on a concession run by Wilderness Safaris within the Mana Pools National Park about 40km from Chirundu on Zimbabwe’s western border with Zambia.
The concession stretches about 9km along the riverfront and 4km inland. The river there teems with hippos which regularly snort and below their presence amid fish eagle calls and the roar of lion after dark. An out of Africa scene to set hearts a flutter!
My wife Colleen and I had driven from Durban to Chirundu – a 2 000km journey which took us into Zimbabwe through Beit Bridge, up to Harare via Masvingo and on to the border with Zambia.
We were collected by motor boat from our overnight stop at Jecha Point Fishing Lodge in Chirundu.
A thrilling hour-long ride up the river past countless hippos (there are about 3 000 in the concession area) and crocodiles lazing on the banks, brought us to Ruckomechi. (For those preferring to fly, Wilderness Air offers aircraft services to the camp from Victoria Falls and Kariba).
Ruckomechi boasts 10 luxury tented, en-suite rooms – each with an outside shower, verandah and undisturbed (except for passing elephants!) river views – providing accommodation for a maximum of just 22 people.
The units, all connected by boardwalks, are comfortable, spacious and decorated to blend with the surroundings. The communal area includes a splash pool, a deck to stargaze while sitting around a fire, and airy dining room and lounge/bar areas. The food is top class with chefs prepared to go out of their way to cater for individual tastes.
Attractions include enjoying a bubble bath in a secluded area situated (safely) close to the riverside and an elevated platform deep in the bush for sleep outs. Nothing like nodding off to the sounds of an African animal choral collection.
Game drives, boat cruises, canoe trips and nature walks are offered in the morning and late afternoon by experienced game guides.
Elephant and hippo are common while adventures often reveal lion, leopard, wild dog, and buffalo among other species.
Fishing is on a catch-and-release basis from boats or on the river banks.
The Zambezi River is the area’s lifeline, a main artery always flowing, always providing sustenance and shelter for animals despite the dangers lurking beneath the surface.
Our canoe trip on the river was special allowing us to get close to a wide variety of birdlife in silence, the only disturbance being the ripples from our paddles. Walking in the Zambezi Valley in the company of a guide proving fascinating background on animals, trees and plants in the area was a treat.
While we were checking in, two elephants sauntered along the main boardwalk in the communal section in search of tasty treats, especially fallen acacia pods. They managed to tread gently along the boardwalk to gasps from enthralled guests.
Our three-day stay at Ruckomechi was full of wildlife sorties but three experiences were stand-outs.
l On an early morning game drive we encountered a large pack of wild dogs, an endangered species. The 21 adults and 14 pups were resting in the shade of large trees. Later that same day they moved on and we followed in anticipation of them planning a kill.
The dogs eventually zeroed in on an impala, setting up a well-planned attack, silently and patiently fanning out on either side of their quarry before breaking into a run which ended swiftly in the kill they were after.
During the hunt the puppies were away from the scene, in a tight huddle protected by two or three of the older dogs.
The hunters returned with strips of meat for the youngsters who yelped and squealed in obvious delight until a loud bark from the Alpha male silenced them in a flash.
We were fortunate to be in the company of the head of the Painted Dog Research Trust, Dr Gregory Rasmussen, whose doctoral thesis at Oxford University in England was on African wild dog.
Rasmussen has been doing research on the animals for the past 25 years and the background he provided on the lifestyles and habits was fascinating.
He said there was a total of about 250 wild dogs in the Zambezi Valley.
l A pontoon trip along the river uncovered a group of about eight elephants grazing among thick reeds on an island. During the hour we watched they all had mud baths of note, getting every part of their bodies covered.
They sat on the bums, kneeled, went head first, sprayed themselves and rolled toes up in the stuff. The positions they got themselves into were hilarious. We had front row seats to all of this. What a treat!
l During a late afternoon drive we followed a lion family – a mother and her three young ones. Their obvious dislike for getting the paws and legs wet was mirrored on their faces when they crossed a wide stream. There were snarls and sneers, while a few leaped into the air in their haste to complete the crossing. Very entertaining.
Our three-day stay at the camp was a wildlife experience up there with the best. The special sights and sounds that raw Africa provides are banked in our memories.
Enjoy benefits and discounts
For more information on Ruckomechi, contact Wilderness Safaris at 011 807 1800, e-mail [email protected] or see www. wilderness-safaris.com. Readers are invited to join the Wilderness Safaris Residents Programme and enjoy reduced rates and other benefits. To find out more about benefits and discounts on last-minute safaris, see www.wilderness-residents.co.za or [email protected].
Weekend Argus