Siem Reap - I’m in Siem Reap. It’s not the capital of Cambodia, but it probably should be. It’s basically a haven for expats. Its a sprawled out jungle city. Starting from the edges, a thick, green, swampy river leads to the Great Tonle Sap Lake, which boasts crooked stick homes built on 6 to 7m stilts that form a floating village. You see naked children hanging upside down to poop. Old wizened women (or men, its hard to tell) stare at you as you cruise along in your river boat.
Then swamp gives way to land and trees and villages, as the river slithers alongside it. The city of Siem Reap itself, is not really a city. You have maybe two or three main roads. One is called “Airport Road”. Which tells you all you need to know, really. Suddenly there’s dilapidated shops amid colonial monoliths, bicycles and tuk tuks, dogs and puddles and food stalls. But also, 5 star boutique hotels and fancy restaurants.
And then on the other side, because the river splits the town in two, is a tourist mecca. Think flea markets within flea-markets, with hidden alleys filled with shops selling clothes, souvenirs, gadgets, massages, paintings and coconuts. Pavement spas offer foot-nibbling fish services, adventures like quad biking or temple hunting, and restaurants of every possible kind; Mexican, Italian, French, Thai, Japanese, Indian, Khmer (local), Vietnamese, Chinese, Cambodian, and Western.
Add rooftop bars and ladyboy karaoke clubs, massage houses, wine bars and party hostels and you have an exotic mix guaranteed to please the most demanding tourist.
But there’s more. French colonial architecture, hammocks swinging between trees, and glorious, blinding bursts of sunshine that give way to sudden, but soothing showers. It’s crazy. It’s so intensely crazy and yet so wonderfully perfect. It just all works. Which probably explains why there are so many expats here. That and that beer is cheaper than water. No, really, that is actually true.
On the other side, it gets leafier and wilder as the villages give way to countryside. With lakes and rice paddies and green meadows that melt into the horizon. Not far from Siem Reap is the Angkor Archaeological Park. You are given a choice of a purchasing a one, three or seven day pass ($20 (R220), $40 or $60) and once you do, you get to explore the most magnificent temple ruins in the middle of dense jungle. They’re sprawled out 4 to 8km apart, so you can either cycle through, hike it, rent a tuk tuk, or hop on to a motorcycle taxi. Your driver will take you to each one, and then patiently wait for you in what counts as a parking lot filled with other waiting drivers. For a fee, of course. But it is worth every dollar.
Angkor Wat is probably the one you’ve seen, knowingly or not on postcards and travel ads; it’s an ancient and gargantuan relic of a past dynasty; a massive three tiered pyramid complete with moat and 65m towers.
Almost every block of stone is covered in intricate carvings. Walkways and entry points are guarded by sleeping stone sphinxes and courtyards are strangled by moss and roots.
If you only see two temples, the other one should be Bayon.
It was immortalised in the 2001 Angelina Jolie film, Tomb Raider, and knowing that strangely added a sense of satisfaction. But nothing really prepares you for actually setting foot in the mythical temples.
The sheer size of it dwarfs and humbles you, the sounds of the jungle enchant and thrill you, and the silently watching stony eyes of the giant faces carved into the tallest towers give the impression that the ruins are alive.
But Siem Reap is more than just a tourist town conveniently situated next to some of the greatest marvels of ancient architecture; it’s also a thriving collection of villages, and there’s more to see and learn than meets the guided eye.
The easy-going island living vibe betrays its tumultuous past; but there are traces, if you look for them. More important, you’ll see signs of growth everywhere. Construction seems constant, tourists are plentiful and the roads and streets maintain an electric, intoxicating buzz.
The locals know that tourism is big money and so foreigners are treated with big smiles, patience and a genuine warmth that can sometimes be disconcerting.
There’s a simplicity of life here that is refreshing and contagious. Most locals speak or understand a little English, so that the language barrier isn’t actually a barrier. And more of an anecdote waiting to be told.
There are a few other towns that I still have to see in Cambodia. Battambang, which you have to take a six hour boat ride to, is guarded by a giant statue and otherworldly cliff edges.
In Phnom Penh, the capital city, and a few coastal beach towns you can rent a remote beach bungalow and feel like a rockstar.
For now though, I’m still making my way through Siem Reap; I have a number and an address now; I know where the good coffee is, and I have bought a bicycle.
I just have to start riding it.
If You Go...
Food
Food here is cheap and aromatic; a rich smorgasbord of flavours and styles; from Khmer traditional meals to exotic sounding meals like stuffed frog and spicy eel curry. But half the fun is exploring the different tastes and experiences offered. I would recommend walking around and literally following your nose.
The Moon Boutique and Spa make the best burgers I’ve ever had, and Viroth’s restaurant on Bo Watt Road makes the best Fish Amok in town.
The markets that locals shop at have every food imaginable at a fraction of the price of the tourist markets, but you should go with a local, or be prepared to play a game of charades.
Getting Around
Getting around is so easy, that you never fear getting lost.
A tuk tuk or motorcycle is always around the corner and they have a heightened sense for detecting tourists.
You can also rent a bicycle if you’re up for the challenge of navigating Siem Reap’s roads.
I had visions of myself cycling around town like a local, but the alarmingly casual adherence to road rules gave me pause. It’s not quite the chaos of India, but it can be pretty overwhelming.
Accommodation/ costs
Accommodation is plentiful and ranges from fancy to budget; you can stay at hotels and guest houses, or rent a room or flat or a house with a pool. Virtually every eatery, hotel or bar has free wi-fi.
A tourist sim card charges you 7US cents a minute for international calls. A tuk tuk or bike ride rarely exceeds $3.
Getting there
Roopnarain flew Singapore Airlines.
Cost including return was R14 000, including airport taxes. Visas on arrival or you can apply online.
Sunday Tribune