Bangkok - I love the Thai way of greeting. The hands delicately clasped together in front of the face, the dipping of the head and the gentle bow. So graceful. From street foodstall cooks to hotel staff, and people I had spent several days with who still afforded me their respect.
I was travelling with Surasak Sarapat, Thailand’s chargé d’affaires in South Africa, a fellow journalist and a diplomat from the Department of International Relations and Co-operation on a whirlwind trip to the south-west city of Trang, away from the bustle of Bangkok and the partying in Phuket and Pattaya.
Just because you’re not in the usual holiday hot spots, don’t think that Trang hasn’t the beautiful beaches, a kick-back-and-relax vibe, to-die-for massages, or any sights to see – it does in abundance. It has its fair share of stupas and pagodas but offers another side to Thailand.
It’s for the more sophisticated traveller, the thinking tourist who wants to participate in sustainable tourism without roughing it – make a contribution but have a holiday at the same time.
But before talking about getting involved, I have to mention the police escort. I guess it was because we had Surasak with us. Not only did we have three cars – two in front and one behind with red lights flashing and sirens blowing – we had an entourage whenever we stepped out of our van. It took some getting used to and was difficult not to be swept up as a participant in the life of the rich and famous. It was wonderful. I waved a lot.
After an early start on our first day, we took a short drive out of the city to the Tam Lae Caves (300 baht/ R135, maximum of six), which you explore by boat, eventually reaching a point where you and your companions are fully stretched out along the bottom of the narrow vessel and the cave walls are literally a nose length away. I was holding in my tummy, my eyes were squeezed shut and I was whimpering… I could feel the roof scraping against my body every now and then… too scary… 350m like that is one helluva long ride. Even one of the men in our boat let out several yelps. And I saw another two cave trips scheduled on the itinerary – should I feign illness? Just panic now and get it over with?
However, the afternoon tour to Bo Hin farm stay in the Sigao District quickly eased my shredded nerves.
This ecotourism venture lets visitors rest and relax by participating in activities to conserve nature and to experience village life and cuisine. Communities provide home-stay lodgings for travellers, local and foreign.
Here we learnt about the dugong (one of the things Trang is known for), or sea cow, which grazes on sea grass and is an inhabitant of the Andaman Sea, though rarely seen. After a lecture/slideshow, we took off by boat and while the tide was out, planted grass on the seabed as part of the manatee feeding programme (water police in tow). It was great to be able to do something so worthwhile. This is one of 25 attractions that have been supported by the Fishing Rehabilitation Centre for the tsunami victims located along the Andaman Coast. Nearby, and among the mangroves, is a natural heated pool of water at an eye-watering 47ºC, so no plunging in.
Fortunately, this part of Thailand was left relatively untouched by the 2004 tsunami, which devastated many parts after a magnitude-9 quake. However, we were told that sand banks have been created in a number of parts of the sea.
The following day we boarded another boat which took us to nearby Kradan Island – a short stop-over for us – and the Emerald Cave; thankfully nothing like before.
Leaving the island, we headed off to a craggy promontory and after anchoring – a young lad swimming to a rocky outcrop with a rope – we grabbed snorkel and goggles, and the optional lifevest, and hit the warm clear water, a light green close to the shore gradually turning teal further out. We snorkelled over coral reefs among fish of all shapes and sizes, pointing and appreciating the quiet colourful life around us. After lunch on board, we upped anchor and headed to the cave; donning life vests and swimming in a long crocodile we broke through the semi-darkness into another world. As you looked back from the white sandy bank, you could appreciate the gorgeous green water. It’s a small beach surrounded by precipitous rocks and jungle-like foliage. After catching our breath, we headed back to the boat.
Under the canopied section of the motor launch we barrelled along the vast Andaman Sea, taking in One Stone Place en route (a four-island trip), with snorkelling and lunch on board is 950 baht (R435).
We disembarked at Charlie Beach Resort on Koh Mook and checked in. Small, neat two-bed chalets were our home (3 500 baht in season; 2 990 baht low season with breakfast per person; 600 baht for additional mattress for children). Kicking off your shoes before you enter is encouraged, and a clay pot with coconut scoop at the bottom of the stairs allows you to wash the sand off your feet before entering. It was too hot to stay indoors so I did a spot of nosing around. There is a shop which sells basics like deodorant, water, beer, and sarong should you have left yours behind or just want another. Attached to the restaurant with views along the beach or through the gardens up to the hills beyond is a takeaway should you need a fast-food fix.
If you have had enough of the sun, there’s a pool with loungers and umbrellas (yes, and the inevitable German tourists hogging them) which has a bar that you swim up to place your order. It also has thumping music. Further along is a “beach shack” with tables and chairs if you want some quiet time where you can get coffee, tea, beer and cooldrinks.
Deck chairs are available if you want to sit and read or just watch the waves and skiffs dropping off and collecting guests. You can also hire a canoe (100 baht for one hour for one person, or 150 baht for one hour for two people) should you need strenuous exercise, and there is a sectioned-off area in the sea should you want to do some lengths.
Not far away, and overlooking the beach, is the spa, where mats and tables are set up. Massage? Outdoors? Lying on a comfy bed with a view along the beach, lulled into relaxation by the sea gently washing up and down, up and down, shaded by palms and a gentle breeze to keep you cool? How long do I have? Prices vary according to type – from reflexology to traditional Thai – and length of time, 15 minutes to two hours. The last appointment is 9pm.
On our first night in Bangkok after a 24-hour journey from Durban, I had a two-hour traditional massage in our hotel, Novotel Bangkok on Siam Square, so I only had to stagger upstairs afterwards and hit the deck.
After working out the kinks in my body, the strong, small capable woman used an upside down, mushroom-like handle she heated in a steamer and then ground into me.
She did caution that it would be hot, but it still was a surprise as the warmth oozed into my tired muscles. I could have stayed there all night. Bliss (850 baht for an hour).
But back to reality… at Chalie Beach you can also hire a motorbike taxi (400-500 baht for three people) and trundle around the island, where dozens of other types of accommodation can be had – from tents to 5-star luxury where the towels are sculpted into swans, elephants and golf shirts. It really is the small things that make all the difference, isn’t it?
At dusk, we watched the sunset from the beach before climbing up the steps of a neighbouring restaurant perched on the promontory where, with an ice-cold bottle of Chang (Thai beer) at hand, we saw it slide into the glassy, warm water below. The next morning, another sunny day, we caught the long-tailed boat back to Kwun Tong Ferry Pier, then it was back to the city, more wondrous food and a variety of short trips – Thep Tha Ro has the most amazing wood sculptures of dragons created from the sweet smelling pine tree which grows in the area.
Since 1996, Trang has become well known for its underwater weddings, and huge plastic flower arrangements were seen in the lobby of our hotel, the Thumrin Thana.
In 2000, the event was inducted into the Guinness World Records book as the largest underwater wedding ceremony and, in 2008, the event officially welcomed gay, lesbian, transgender and bisexual couples. Each Valentine’s Day celebration continues to bring watery wedded bliss to a new generation of couples.
A visit to Na Muensri village lets you see women weaving on traditional looms, making fabrics from silk and using local techniques and patterns. The Lai Look Kao pattern has been renowned for centuries as a design only for the upper classes.
Now, anyone who can buy the cloth can wear the pattern, with women using it as a traditional sash and men as a cummerbund or wound around the head.
Another Trang “speciality” is durian, the fruit that has the most overwhelming smell and a taste to match. I tried it and have to say it was truly vile, but many love it.
Some even travel from Chinato, eat it and take some back home. So revolting is the stench that most hotels have signs in reception prohibiting guests from keeping it in their rooms. But don’t despair, there are dozens of restaurants nearby and plenty of street food vendors to keep hunger at bay
There is also a street market in the main road behind the hotel, selling mainly clothes, from stalls set up by young entrepreneurs. I stocked up on tea (from lemongrass to butterfuly pea), T-shirts and Thai silk boxers, Tiger balm and the ubiquitous incense, fragrances overpowering my suitcase.
As we left for the airport, saying goodbye to our police escort, new friends and with a head full of memories, I was delighted that I had not seen a single elephant staggering under a load of overweight tourists – a hideous “attraction” that needs to be abolished globally.
Kob khun ka (thank you), Trang, the city of smiles.
l Shepherd Smith flew Singapore Airlines via Singapore to Bangkok and Nok Air to Trang. With thanks to the Tourism Authority of Thailand and Chao Mai Tours.
Joanne Shepherd Smith, Saturday Star