Geneva - I've always loved skiing; the sparkling mountain views; the fresh, clean air; the thigh burn you just don't get from a gym session. In recent years, I've been with friends to the Alps and the Austrian Tyrol, but it's become more about the après and the deckchair sunbathing than the white stuff. These are big, mixed groups - last year, men made up three-quarters of our number and Jägermeister was a staple.
So, you could say the “retreat-style”, women-only ski break I was previewing was a bit of a departure. Based in the quiet Les Bosons area of the sprawling Chamonix valley, the five-day trip with luxury specialist Amazon Creek is aimed at girls who want to up their ski game in a supportive environment - as owners Tim and Lisa Davis see it - without the pressures that can come with large, testosterone-fuelled groups or the parenting distractions of family holidays.
I was dubious on both counts; I love the buzz of a busy resort. And I enjoy the camaraderie of a boisterous mixed group , even if it does mean I occasionally find myself being pushed to go down steep and bumpy off-piste routes against my better judgement - and beyond my ski abilities. After all, I went to an all-girls' comprehensive and I go on a lot of hen dos, so given the choice I generally wouldn't opt for a single-sex environment.
My worry about the appeal of a more tranquil location melted away as soon as we entered the wooded corner that houses Amazon Creek (the company's original and flagship chalet) and its sister buildings Baloo and Baby Bear (the three together, sleeping 26, are known as “Amazonia”). With views of the Aiguille de Midi, they are picture perfect chalets from the outside; built out of warm-toned wood with huge windows so breakfast comes with a side of mountain vista, while outside there's a hot tub on the deck.
Once through the door, you can hear the log fire crackling before you see it in the open-plan living space that's furnished with slouchy leather sofas and zebra-print chairs. Art is mountain-themed, and a big model boat in a glass cabinet reflects Amazon Creek's other going concern (along with two Sardinian villas). Suddenly those industrial-looking Val d'Isère party houses I'm used to seemed less appealing.
So the chalet ticked all the right boxes, but what about the skiing? Amazon Creek selects its instructors carefully. Rachel Kerr took the lead; a Scot, she's been living in the Alps for 11 years and got misty-eyed as she talked about “Cham” and its “epic” couloirs and steeps. She regularly leads off-piste and backcountry sessions, as well as helping more novice skiers work on improving their technique. She out-skis pretty much anyone, but she is a passionate advocate of what women can achieve in a specialised group: “We want to unite like-minded women to explore the mountains,” she told me, explaining that, in her experience, women feel pressure to keep up with the pace of the boys and take a back seat in a mixed group. “I'd like women not to be afraid to voice their opinions and share their experiences so we can target exactly the skills to improve,” she said.
Her passion for the idea and the mountains was infectious, so I was excited when three of us headed to the central Brévent area to get our ski legs. On this “bluebird” day, the views were at their sparkling best. Rachel listened to what we wanted to get out of the session. For me, it was improving my technique when things get steep - which meant going back to basics.
On a cruisy blue run, there were drills to make sure my weight was mainly over my downhill ski (anyone who tells you skiing with any part of a ski off the snow is easy, is lying). Then, noticing my posture on planks was a bit static, she had me working on bending and flexing my hips on turns. She gave detailed feedback, while still managing to keep the group together. Our number included a mum-of-two who was nervous after a seven-year break. I watched as Rachel gently coaxed her to keep looking ahead, and as her confidence and stability improved, encouraged her that it was OK to go that bit faster. With Rachel's encouragement, we all made it down the black run from Le Brévent cable car (2 525m). Not too shabby.
As well as the on-mountain instruction, those on the women's ski break receive evening video analysis and are encouraged to work on technical terrain, such as moguls and icy routes. Towards the end of the week, there's the option to try Chamonix's lauded off-piste route, the Vallée Blanche.
It was after a hard day on the mountain that Amazon Creek's nothing-is-too-much-trouble approach came into its own. Guests are picked up wherever they are in the valley, relieved of skis and poles and escorted back to the chalet. Back at base, the log fire is primed, with the sauna, hot tub and hamam all cranked up and a free massage waiting.
Food and drink are a big deal, too. I've been to chalets staffed by 18-year-old unseasoned seasonnaires - there's none of that here. You get four courses in the evening and food is hearty but with flair; quality, slow-roasted meats, locally sourced fish and inventive sides such as carrot and wasabi purée, finished off with moreish desserts and a cheeseboard.
Buoyed by my session with Rachel, I joined a group of more experienced skiers, including three men. As we went up the lift, they started eyeing up what looked like a steep, scraped and prohibitively narrow rocky chute. Discussion turned to whether we should give it a go. I missed our all-girl gang already. As they headed off, I ducked out and went to practise my new skills on the red run, throwing in a few off-piste moguls for good measure.
TRAVEL ESSENTIALS
GETTING THERE
Sally Newall flew to Geneva with Swiss (0345 601 0956; swiss.com)
SKIING THERE
The Women's Ski Break at Chalet Amazon Creek (01865 865 456; amazoncreek.co.uk) runs 9-13 March, from £1 700pp (about R36 000) full board, with daily ski tuition and guiding, yoga, spa treatment, and in-resort chauffeur. The chalet can be booked exclusively from £14 320 per week for up to 10.
MORE INFORMATION
chamonix.com
The Independent on Sunday