This carpet of bushy grass seems to have been designed for one purpose only - for people to lie down on and stretch themselves out, preferably flat on their backs while gazing at the seagulls wheeling aloft.
Lying around here with nothing in particular to do is a fine way of getting accustomed to the slow pace on the alluring island of Belle-Isle. Life on the largest of the Breton islands off northern France is a languid affair. Those anxious to gobble up miles in search of landmarks will be disappointed. The island is only 20 kilometres long and nine kilometres across at its broadest point.
The ferry arrives with a tooting of horns. The vessel brings commuters and tourists to the main settlement Le Palais. Shortly before it enters the harbour, the captain throttles back and glides between the twin lighthouses, each topped with lantern houses, one green and the other red.
Nicolas Fouquet, the wealthy financial guru in the service of Sun King Louis XIV, bought this island in the mid-17th century and turned it into the headquarters for his merchant fleet - without ever having visited the place. Fouquet later fell out of favour and the king had him clapped in irons. Naturally the island was confiscated too and the monarch sent his fortress builder Vauban to Belle Isle. The citadel of the star-shaped fortifications is a classic piece of Vauban architecture and these days it houses an exclusive hotel.
Belle Isle can be easily explored on foot by taking the coast road and with four or five days at their disposal tourists can get around the entire island. The path is well-marked and only hikers are allowed to use it.
Hiring a car or bicycle is another way of getting to know the territory more intimately. However, bikes are for more athletic types and although there are no real hills to speak of, the paths plunge up and down and the roads tend to be narrow. A fun way to stay mobile is by hiring one of the two-seater, convertible buggies.
We plump for one of these dodgem-like vehicles which lack either a roof or doors. Passengers are perched only a few centimetres above the ground. The bright yellow contraption looks like a child's toy car and it appears to be grinning at us in an amiable fashion. The pop-up headlamps stare out above a smiling mouth daubed on the front. Yes, it does look a bit daft but this is a hilarious way to joyride around the island.
We set off for the northern village of Sauzon. The distances are modest and before we can change up to fourth gear the yellow midget car is rushing up to the quayside. Yachts bob on the water next to fishermen's nets spread out on the flagstones. A woman is standing on her own selling freshly-caught lobsters whose claws and legs wave slowly.
The northern tip of the island with its white and red lighthouse extends so far into the sea that it can only be reached at low tide. French actress Sarah Bernhardt (1844-1923) chose Pointe des Poulains as a refuge from the glamour and glitter of Paris. Back in those days the rail trip from the French capital took 12 hours and she had to be carried on land from the boat by a team of strapping assistants.
Artist Claude Monet discovered Belle Isle a few years before Sarah Bernhardt. He planned to remain for only two weeks but ended up staying two-and-a-half months. He took a particular liking to the west coast with its heather-covered cliffs and rock stacks which tower above the waves like slender-necked monsters.
The Aiguilles de Port Coton are named after the plumes of spray which remind onlookers of cotton wool buds.
Journeys from one picturesque spot to the other seldom last longer than 20 minutes. In Bangor, the only place of any size in the interior, the local senior citizens are busy playing petanque, a form of boules. This is where former French president Francois Mitterrand liked to unwind.
As light falls, we find ourselves back in Le Palais where it is time to take an aperitif on the terrace. The rest of the evening's entertainment consists of choosing the right restaurant and navigating the delicious menu selections.
Fresh fish and butter are the culinary basics on Belle Isle and they can be combined to create up some truly mouth-watering dishes. Add a refreshing glass of Rose wine with a flambeed crepe for dessert to top off a perfect island adventure. - Sapa-dpa