Paris - The steaming-hot bouillabaisse arrives in a bowl so heavy it requires two waiters to hold it while another rattles through the ingredients.
“It contains six different types of fish including monkfish, John Dory, mullet, gilt-head bream and conger, with mussels and crabs and potatoes and tomatoes,” server Sebastien says proudly. I'm already salivating and can't wait for him to put the dish down on the table.
This typical Provencal fish stew, originating from the Marseille, region is the perfect meal to mark the beginning of my long weekend to the port city in the south of France.
Designed to be shared, the meal is served in two courses - a rich broth is dished up with bread, garlic and rouille (a mayonnaise made with olive oil, garlic, saffron and cayenne pepper), followed by the fish and then more soup in another bowl.
My friends and I leisurely dip and munch our way through both courses at the Miramar restaurant, famous for its bouillabaisse (63 Euros/R1 000 per person), located opposite the Grand Port Maritime. It's pure heaven.
Marseille, on the Mediterranean coast, is the second largest city in France after Paris. Traditionally a southern gateway into the country because of its large port, creating a cosmopolitan melting pot unique to the city, Marseille has spawned famous footballers Zinedine Zidane and Eric Cantona, and has also been chosen as one of the 10 host cities for this summer's Uefa Euro 2016.
Interior design and architecture fans will find plenty to love about Marseille - from the trendy Philippe Starck-designed Mama Shelter hotel, to Zaha Hadid's CMA CGM Headquarters, a metallic tower that gently arcs 142 metres skyward.
But the real heart of the city is the Mediterranean port. A bustling daily market sells fresh fish and seafood, and regattas take place during the summer months.
I take a two-hour boat ride, exploring the rugged coastline with skipper Yannick Long, a former doctor of genetics who swapped the science lab for the sea in 2004.
He's dressed in a typically Breton uniform of striped jumper, white shorts and boat shoes, accompanied by a deep tan and perfectly-windswept hair.
“Having a boat and being at sea keeps me young,” explains the 75-year-old who grew up tinkering with boats.
Another recommended place to explore by boat is the Calanques National Park, well known for its hiking trails and great snorkelling spots. During summer, tourists flock to the park's stunning, rocky fjords. But with an abundance of culture and culinary delights, Marseille is perfect to visit at any time of year.
The Independent