San Francisco - The best-known state on the West Coast of the US is probably California, with Los Angeles and San Francisco being the most popular cities to visit. Of course, Nevada, the home of Las Vegas, is equally famous.
I visited all three cities and contrary to what they say, what happens in Vegas doesn’t stay there, because I’m about to share my experience of the debaucherous city, along with my experience of California.
Las Vegas
While it has been on my bucket list for the longest time, Las Vegas wasn’t really my cup of tea.
“The Strip” is a collection of palatial hotels, each housing its own theatre and casino, plus numerous restaurants. Malls are also within hotels, so you can’t escape the trilling of slot machines (which starts at baggage claim at the airport, believe it or not.) Because it was so hot (around 45ºC when I visited, in July) we went from one air-conditioned space to the next, barely managing five minutes walking in the street.
The hotels are all ridiculously over the top – the Venetian is a replica of Venice, complete with its own canals and gondolas, while the Luxor is reminiscent of ancient Egypt, built in the shape of a pyramid, with a massive sphinx at the entrance.
I’m one for natural beauty and my favourite way to explore a city is on the streets, on foot, so I quickly grew tired of constantly seeking air-conditioned salvation.
I stayed at the Four Seasons on the end of the Strip, which didn’t have much of a Vegas feel to it, a welcome respite from the rest of the city. Unlike the larger hotels, where it’s common to wait more than 30 minutes in a queue to check in, my stay at the Four Seasons was hassle free, with welcome added extras, like a “house car” – a complimentary vehicle ready to drop guests off anywhere on the Strip. www.fourseasons.com
While I didn’t do any gambling, I was thrilled by the entertainment hub that is Las Vegas. Shows, clubs, fine dining, exhibitions – you could be kept occupied for days, provided you’re willing to pay – these attractions don’t come cheap.
One show that is worth its ticket price is Le Reve. The entire show is performed in an aqua theatre – basically a multi-dimensional swimming pool. The theatre is intimate, leaving you captivated by the artistic athleticism and aerial acrobatics displayed by the performers. www.lereve.com
During the day, activities are mostly limited to shopping and gambling, but there are a few great exhibitions worth seeing. I thoroughly enjoyed the Titanic artefact exhibition at the Luxor hotel, which has been running since 2008. Visitors are guided through a replica of the ship’s lobby, guest rooms and dining area. You are also able to see a piece of the ship (the largest solid piece that has been recovered to date), a life-size replica of the iceberg that determined its fate, plus the actual personal possessions of some of the guests. www.luxor.com/entertainment/titanic
Los Angeles
After the desert that was Vegas, the mild Los Angeles weather was more than welcome. The sprawling city, with its multi-lane overlapping highways, is intimidating at first, but very quickly grew on me. I had heard that each suburb had its own identity, so I opted to spend time in various areas, in order to get a proper feel of the city.
Starting off in downtown, the financial district, I called Omni Hotel home for two nights, and liked being in the centre of the action. The hotel’s in-house restaurant, Noé, is a real treat. It prides itself on the freshest seafood possible – my soft shell crab had just been caught that morning. The wine list is impressive and includes many vintages from the California area. www.omnihotels.com
From there, I headed to swanky Beverly Hills, characterised by the palm trees framing the wide roads. Here, I spent a night at the Avalon hotel, where Marilyn Monroe lived for three years. Because of the boutique hotel’s history, it has tried to maintain the layout as it was in the 1960s, leading to a retro, art deco feel. The hotel’s restaurant, Oliverio, is a great spot for celeb spotting, due to its enclosed booths surrounding the pool. I particularly enjoyed the Bufalina pizza, with tomato sauce, buffalo mozzarella and fresh oregano. www.viceroyhotelgroup.com
While fine dining in Los Angeles is not hard to find, farmers’ markets are equally part of the city, with each suburb having its own.
I joined Melting Pot Tours for a tour of the original farmers’ market, which was initially a dairy farm, founded in 1880. In 1900, the owner discovered oil on the premises and struck it rich, until the 1930s and the Depression struck, when the area was left vacant. In 1934, the farmers’ market was born, with a few merchants selling their fare from the back of trucks. Since then, it has grown in size and fame, with dozens of speciality food items available for sale. We started the tour with a bang – doughnuts and coffee. We also tried ice cream made on the premises, falafel, and some artisan bread and cheese. This was a great way to hear about the history behind the market, as well as try some of its treats. www.meltingpottours.com
My last night in LA was spent at the London West Hollywood. Oversized, modern suites come complete with private dressing areas, large living spaces and private terraces. A few nice touches: free calls to London and a complimentary continental breakfast available to all guests.
Gordon Ramsay’s LA restaurant is situated at the London, and here I tried the best gnocchi of my life. The US is generally unfriendly towards non-red meat eaters like me, so I was thrilled to find a vegetarian dish as flavourful as the ricotta cheese gnocchi, served with rocket. Because my main was that delicious, I did not expect dessert to be the highlight – I tried “donuts and coffee”, which was coffee ice cream served with freshly baked mini doughnuts – completely decadent. www.thelondonwesthollywood.com
San Francisco
The final stop on my West Coast adventure was San Francisco. Here, I stayed at Hotel Vitale, in the financial district, close to the Embarcadero. With complimentary yoga classes, free wi-fi and urban-style rooms, this provided a comfortable base for three nights in the city.
My first day was spent exploring North Beach, known as “Little Italy”. I enlisted the help of San Francisco Local Tastes of the City Tours to help me get acquainted, and very quickly fell in love with the little suburb, home to many family-owned pizzerias, coffee roasters and bakeries, including one that bakes bread in a 130-year-old oven.
I didn’t see a Starbucks the entire time I was there – unheard of in this part of the US. www.sffoodtour.com
While in North Beach, I had to see the longest running US musical, Beach Blanket Babylon. This hilarious cabaret, packed with spoofs of pop culture and political characters, was certainly a highlight. Characters sport spectacular costumes and outrageously gigantic hats, the show-stopper definitely being the “San Francisco skyline” hat. www.beachblanketbabylon.com
Last on my San Francisco to-do list: a meal at MKT restaurant.
The retro spot is a popular after-work watering hole for the city’s swish bankers, with food having a “market-to-table” freshness. The MKT specialty is communal dining, featuring small plates designed to share, creating a great social atmosphere. Here, I enjoyed the “Dungeness Crab Fritters”, served with a smoked tomato remoulade, as well as the “Summer Melon Salad”, cucumber, feta, watercress and chilli vinaigrette. www.mktrestaurantandbar.com
l Hasmita Nair was hosted by some of the establishments above for the purposes of this review.
Sunday Tribune