LOSERS is arguably one of the most recognised up-and-coming sneaker brands in the world. It is stocked on the shelves next to Comme des Garçons, Valentino and Givenchy at many of the world’s leading boutiques.
It is available in 20 countries and more than 100 different retailers (namely Superbalist and The Corner Store in Cape Town).
Its brand director is South African-born Thian Pillay, who hails from Mobeni Heights in Durban.
The 30-year-old has lived a relatively quiet, jetsetter lifestyle. But the launch of his own brand is sure to change all of that.
Pillay, who went to school at Westville Boys’ High and studied Economics at the University of KwaZulu-Natal, moved to Hiroshima to work on the JET (Japan Exchange and Teaching) Programme for the Japanese government after completing his studies.
He’s the first to admit that establishing a career in a foreign country is not easy.
“I worked for the Japanese government for about three years and then moved to Tokyo to pursue work as a freelance photographer and style reporter.
“I always knew that I wanted to be in fashion. I didn’t really get a big break. It has been hard work and has meant many long hours spent away from my family.
“The position at LOSERS came up after about a year-and-a-half and I didn’t hesitate. It’s been a learning curve with tremendous amounts of travelling, but it’s safe to say LOSERS is now a globally-known brand.”
While he can’t really bemoan the travel, having become the face of the brand over the past three years, he explains that it can be taxing.
“It usually starts in early January with a five-day trip to Florence for the world’s leading menswear tradeshow – Pitti Immagine, then it’s on to Milan for fashion week, followed by Paris Fashion Week, New York, Berlin, London, Las Vegas and Copenhagen and usually comes to an end around the first week of March.
“Then it’s showroom meetings, collection launches, photoshoots accompanied by a family holiday to some beach resort, product development, client meetings, meetings and more meetings before the whole Florence-through-to-Copenhagen cycle kicks off again in mid-June through to September,” he says.
When he isn’t travelling, he’s at the office in Harajuku, the heart of Tokyo’s fashion district. And after walking the dog and dropping his 4-year-old daughter, Arya Yuika, off at school there are meetings and time is scheduled for looking at online fashion magazines and stores, just as research and trend analysis.
He says, “As the industry goes, there are many business dinners, fashion week parties, early mornings and lots of espresso.”
Pillay says working with Sneakerwolf, aka Motoki Takenaka, who founded the footwear brand LOSERS in the latter half of 2012, has taught him a great deal about the fashion industry.
“LOSERS is always striving to create things with a sense of iki: a concept of beauty and perseverance unique to Japan.”
“We are LOSERS – just like struggling artists, we built our culture from our own ideas and ingenuity, without being given any handouts.
“Unlike most sneakers, which have their logo on the side of the shoe, LOSERS’ trademark is the V-shaped design on the toe. This symbolises the toe strap on traditional Japanese footwear; Geta, Zori and Waraji.
“The LOSERS colour scheme is based on the concept of 48 browns and 100 greys from the Edo period of Japanese history (17th-19th century). This was a time when noble members of society imposed restrictions on common people to prevent them wearing bright and flamboyant colours – anything associated with decadence.
“The core line forms the basis of the collection, while the custom-made line changes from season to season.”
Pillay says, “I’m involved in all aspects of the business, from design to delivery. I’ve had the benefit of working with Japanese, Italian and UK-based brands as a creative consultant and this is how I was able to conceptualise my menswear brand.
“NONCONFORMIST will debut in 40 stores across 14 countries on January 15.
“It is a UK-based brand and the SS16 collection is called A Great Fraud.
“Born from the ideas of social movements and uprisings, the graphics of NONCONFORMIST portray the message of power, corruption and lies and are aimed at disparities within society and acts of social injustice.”
The collection features a balance of classic streetwear staples and contemporary pieces mixed with prints, badging and fine embroidery to complete the details.
* The brand will be available online at www.nonconformistuk.com and you can also get a taste of Pillay’s work in collaborations with the Johannesburg brand, Simon and Mary.