Johannesburg - L’Oreal is trying to find out what African
women want, and then make money from it.
In a sparsely lit room inside a laboratory near
Johannesburg, a young woman pores over single strands of hair, the ends of each
fibre held, jewellery-like, in delicate copper tubes. A laser machine nearby
draws a horizontal red line over the face of a motionless volunteer in a black
T-shirt.
“African consumers don’t have today a great freedom to do
what they want with their hair without pain, money and effort,” said Alice
Laurent, a 39-year-old French biochemist who built up the research centre from
scratch after a five-year stint for L’Oreal in China. “I’d say that L’Oreal is
quite a pioneer.”
The world’s biggest maker of beauty products is hoping to
capture a market that it estimates at 100 million middle-class consumers.
Unlike Europe, Africa holds the promise of high growth: the number of
middle-class African women who live in cities and work outside the home will
continue to grow for years to come, and their average age is an alluring 24.
The idea is to develop new hair products especially for them rather than
offering brands developed for black consumers in the US, and thus giving
L’Oreal an advantage over competitors such as Unilever and Avon.
Pointing at a study that’s pinned on a wall detailing
degrees of curliness in countries across sub-Saharan Africa, Laurent said her
first priority is identifying habits and needs of African consumers, about whom
there is little research.
The laboratory is part of the company’s plan to tap into
new markets, according to Deborah Aitken, a Bloomberg Intelligence analyst.
L’Oreal seeks to sustain growth by carefully chosen acquisitions and by
going into emerging markets with long-term potential, Aitken said.
“Africa is a big market for key product categories like
hair care, and to really capture that will help develop L’Oreal versus peers
like Unilever,” Aitken said.
Rising sales
Worldwide, L’Oreal has extended its lead in recent years
by expanding its stable of luxury lines. High-end brands have fueled
expansion in North America, where like-for-like sales were up 6.3 percent in
the fourth quarter of 2016, the company said this month. While its shares have
slightly lagged behind the Stoxx 600 Personal & Household Goods Index over
the last 12 months, L’Oreal expects to outperform the beauty market globally
this year.
Read also: L'Oreal beats estimates
But in Nigeria and South Africa, the region’s two largest
economies, L’Oreal’s sales in all beauty and personal care categories combined
are trailing Unilever, Avon and P&G. And it faces strong competition from
local brands, which according to L’Oreal account for two-thirds of the African
hair care market.
Purple bottles
Most of the money African women spend on beauty products
goes to hair care. Among popular brands that L’Oreal already sells across
sub-Saharan Africa are the relatively pricey Garnier and the mass-market Dark
& Lovely, whose purple-tinted bottles and jars are coveted from salons in
Tanzania to shantytowns in Sierra Leone.
The beauty market in Africa is divided in two segments:
local brands and international brands. “African women will use both, and
they’re also very good at customizing their own pomades,” Laurent said. While
L’Oreal says it considers sub-Saharan Africa “very promising,” the company
won’t disclose sales forecasts or targets.
undefinedBut sales data tell the story. The total value of sales
of beauty and personal care products in South Africa and Nigeria rose to almost
$5 billion last year. Hair care was among the fastest-growing categories of
products sold between 2010 and 2015, with the value of sales climbing 38
percent and 63 percent in South Africa and Nigeria in the period respectively,
according to Euromonitor, which collects data for four countries in the region.
Growing slowly
“The big manufacturers are realizing that there’s a lot
of future potential,” said Thomas Verryn, research manager at Euromonitor
International for sub-Saharan Africa. “They’re investing now to make increased
sales in the long term.”
African hair comes with a unique set of
challenges: it’s more fragile than Caucasian hair, it grows more slowly
and it’s more difficult to manage. Wigs aside, braiding is widely considered
the most convenient style because they can stay in for several weeks and barely
require maintenance, Laurent said. But years of braiding or chemically
straightening curly hair can cause receding hairlines and even baldness, as
some products, relaxers especially, are “very harsh to the hair,” she said.
Natural hair
To be sure, the African hair care market is still
tiny compared to Asia or Europe, accounting for roughly $450 million in sales
in South Africa and more than $300 million in Nigeria, according to Euromonitor
data. And like other big-name western brands, L’Oreal is facing the skepticism
of a generation of media-savvy African women who’ve latched onto the
natural-hair movement that originated in the US about a decade ago.
While US sales of relaxers dropped 19 percent
between 2013 and 2015, market research company Mintel reports, in Africa
they’re still climbing steadily. At the same time, the natural-hair trend
is rapidly gaining a foothold in Africa, with at least 10 specialized salons
opening in Johannesburg alone in the past few years, each selling their own
pomades.
Back in her office, Laurent brings out a sample of the
first brand to come out of the lab: Au Naturale, a range of four products
designed to untangle and moisturize African locks.
“We redeveloped the range specifically for Africa, we
tested it here and we worked with our experts here,” she said.