Designer labels for the masses

Published Nov 21, 2004

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As a teen who strictly obeyed and monitored style barometers, I looked upon department store clothing with the same disdain Jamie Oliver has for dried and packaged basil.

In the '80s one went to boutiques like Esprit, Tin Pan Alley and Smileys for all one's luminous fashion-victim requirements. One only made brief and shameful visits to department stores like Woolies to snap up underwear and the ubiquitous polo-neck. However, the Woolworths South African Designer Show held last weekend has marked a new era: the birth of department store cool.

Much to the delight of trend devotees, sought-after labels Stoned Cherrie, Native and Maya Prass have shimmied into selected Woolworths stores.

To celebrate this momentous fashion landmark the designers showed off their creations in an in-store style spectacle inspiring gasps from hardened Sandton shoppers.

Nkhensani Manganyi's Stoned Cherrie label, which spearheaded Sophiatown Afro-chic, served up Cherrie basics: Flared A-line skirts with traditional trimmings, the fitted "Drum" printed "T" and body-hugging shirts with contrasting bias binding.

The 70s-esque printed A-line wraparound skirts in vivid shades of chocolate and green were a nice new addition. Monochrome outfits shared the ramp with courageous colour combos of ochre, rust and orange. The look was traditional African styling with a sophisticated twist. However, the range was nothing you haven't seen before.

Stoned Cherrie need to do a bit of brainstorming before next season as the collection lacked a bit of the wow factor. Nevertheless, I am sure Cherrie fans will be thrilled to pick up these staple clothing items for a song.

The Stoned Cherrie show ended with an energetic dance sequence proving that these garments are perfect to get down in. The sly cut of the skirts just begs for a twirl.

Maya Prass's range was a burst of colour: burgundies, hot pinks, limes, greens and electric shades of turquoise and yellow sashayed down the catwalk and had audience members fishing their sunglasses out of their bags.

Cute little camis came with ribbon ties and skirts were embellished with floral prints. The lightweight dresses floated down the ramp and skirt hems swirled. The vibe was relaxed, with a quiet touch of femininity.

Maya Prass applied her own distinctive love of pattern and colour to basic clothing items, elevating them to designer status, creating a fresh and vibrant look for this summer. Maya Prass Thai-style trousers are definitely a must-buy for this summer.

Edgy, Afro-urban-retro-meets-traditional, sums up Craig Native's Woolies collection. Native proved that denim never dies. Applying his creativity to this "worker's cloth", Native gave Diesel a run for their money with innovative style lines, pleating and rouching, re-establishing this label's street cred.

Slogan T-shirts were partnered up with his denims, and in case you were wondering where his allegiance lies, his "I love Africa" T-shirts said it all. And if you get tired of wearing your jeans, Native has the solution; just turn them inside out and you have a whole new look.

Native took traditional African prints and combined them with denim, confirming that fashion designers are looking to customary culture for inspiration.

If this carries on, one might not be able to tell the difference between a fashionista and a sangoma.

Native's stripy tops and dresses are great if you want to funk up your wardrobe.

Not only have Woolworths taken a gamble by betting on the creativity of designers to expand their brand, but the designers are also taking a risk. How will their established clientele feel about "their" style being snapped up by the masses?

Native says that he is thrilled that his label will now be accessible to a larger market. "I want my clothing to be non-segregational; available to any age or cultural group. I want an 80-year-old to be able to buy my garments."

However, Native stresses that he is "testing waters" with his line for Woolworths but believes that collaborations with retail chains are "a new way forward. South Africa is like a 10-year-old kid and we are going through this experimental phase at the moment."

Native suggests that the hottest item from his range is his "I love Africa" T-shirt, but only wear it, says Native, "if you live it and you feel it and you know it. Don't wear it if you don't believe it. It takes a lot to say 'I love Africa'. South Africa has been through harsh times and (the slogan) is designed to promote a positive outlook.

"I am never going to reinvent the wheel in clothing, I know that. Native is about a message," he asserts.

Native does not believe the label's move into a retail chain will adversely affect the label's style status.

"Firstly, we are only in five stores and I supply eight boutiques, so more boutique outlets stock my clothing. We are not producing hundreds of thousands of units. The Woolworths range is also a diffusion range; the more experimental clothing will only be found in the boutiques.

"We are doing what big designers are doing all over the world. Jean-Paul Gaultier makes a plain white T-shirt with his logo on the front. Nobody wants to wear bells and whistles every single day. I want to cater for everybody."

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