It's fairly common practice for chefs and foodies to be asked to name their favourite restaurant. I'm never surprised that responses vary widely - a suitable answer depends on the type of occasion, who's doing the asking, their preferred style of eating and range they're prepared to pay.
Those criteria aside, restaurants can usually be divided into two categories. Those which impress with cutting-edge trends, smart decor and innovative skill. And the ones that resist fads and dish up traditional values and classics, while little changes.
La Perla in Sea Point definitely belongs in the latter category. The restaurant opened in the 1960s in Cape Town's CBD and moved to its current location in 1969; somewhat weathered décor now reflecting that sentiment.
Large windows, horizontal beams, ceiling panels and '70s lights now have retro appeal; unfortunately hideous carved chairs and tasselled Italian upholstery have also survived. Orange is a feature colour, with specks dotted inside and out.
Art on the walls from the Sandri family's collection is discernibly more stylish and contemporary. It also changes more regularly than the menu. Seated at "one of the best" tables on a busy Saturday night, we get the feeling most diners aren't there because
La Perla was flagged by Condé Nast Traveller's 2004 website as one of Sea Point's best restaurants.
A few waiters in white lab coats look as historic as the venue - three of them did start in the '60s. Hence curt, no-nonsense service is delivered in the style only old hands get away with - we dutifully obey when told the restaurant is busy; orders should be quick with no detailed explanations. So resisting an inquiry about seafood platter prices, we bypass salads, soups and a springbok bresaola with Gorgonzola (R65).
Instead, an order of grilled calamari (R50) is shared three ways, alongside unusual-sounding zucchini carpaccio (R45). Patagonian calamari tubes and tentacles are tender and crisp respectively; in olive oil, chopped fresh garlic and chilli.
With a squeeze of lemon, the dish is an ideal contrast to cool, raw zucchini circles in olive oil, lemon juice and seasoning. The carpaccio is completed by rosa tomatoes, pecorino shavings and chopped red pepper.
We're drinking a moderate quality red, Guardian Peak Shiraz (R101), and similar options include Terra del Capo 2003 Sangiovese (R140) and Delheim Sauvignon Blanc 2005 (R86). The list is creative, but don't expect wine advice from the blue-coated stewards.
More ambitious labels include Kanonkop Cabernet 2001 (R389), Meerlust Rubicon 1994 (R590) and Taittinger NV (R736). Main courses include pastas, fish, seafood (prawns start at R145) and meat. The spatchcocked baby chicken (R70) roasted in rosemary and garlic with crisp skin is declared delicious.
Grilled red roman fillet is a little dry, but fine when doused in lemon juice and a good cream-and-wine-based mustard dipping sauce (R85).
All linefish can also be poached or fried. Chips (R10 per bowl) or veggies are extra. Some cooks use fortified Marsala in Veal Saltimbocca (R85), but La Perla's large flattened pieces are grilled, draped in prosciutto, mozzarella and sage leaves, before being doused in a white wine sauce containing tomato, peppers, mushrooms and onion.
The veal is tasty with noodles, but flavours are obscured by the sauce. Portions are large at La Perla, so there's little space for dessert.
We pick at another Italian classic, panna cotta with berry sauce (R30), but are disappointed by the dense, heavy texture of this cream-based dessert.
It's a small chink in La Perla's armour however - the characters, comfort value and cooking produce enough redeeming features to keep diners returning.
- Details:
Restaurant category: Italian, city casual.
Address: Beach Road, Sea Point - 021 434 2471
Open: Daily from 11.30am to 11pm.
Chef : Albert Msuwali.
Wine: Blue jackets denote the wine stewards; waiters wear white. The owners of Wijnhuis also select this SA label-dominated list. Arranged by variety or style, with vintages, descriptions and awards discreetly listed. Fair wine-by-the-glass selection and average mark-ups. R25 corkage on BYO.
Vibe: Linen-cloaked tables with bright lighting are packed with regulars including families and businessmen. Models dine alongside babies in prams. Italian, Spanish and French tunes vie with Cuban and South American above the bustle. Terrace tables in good weather.
Vegetarian: Yes
Smoking: In separate popular bar or at terrace tables.
Wheelchairs: No
Loos: Neat marble bathrooms
Who ate? Three adults
When? Busy Saturday dinner
Cards: Major
Spend: Three courses excluding drinks and service: R110 - R340
Value: Good
VERDICT
Food: 4/6
Wine: 3.5/5
Service: 3.5/5
The rest: 3/4
Total: 14/20