In recent years I've watched sadly as sherry has lost its
popularity. In the KWV cellars in Paarl there used to be a vast area devoted to the sherry "solera".
Tier upon tier of old casks filled the cellar as the special flor yeast worked its magic on the maturing sherry. Today the sherry solera takes up a mere corner of its former space. Fewer and fewer people are discovering the charm of this very special wine, which is a great pity.
No other wine style captures the subtle nutty character of a good flor sherry.
Sherry is a unique wine in that it never has a vintage year, like port or table wine. In the solera system, new wine is added to one tier of barrels as the matured wine is racked down to the next level and again to the bottom level of barrels.
It is drawn from the bottom tier as required and blended into one of many sherry styles.
Dirkie Christowitz, one of the few passionate sherry makers in South Africa, insists that sherry is a drink for all occasions, and I agree. Christowitz, who is the cellar-master at Monis, is leading a campaign to put sherry back on the country's tables.
He would like to put an end to the misconception that sherries can only be enjoyed in more conservative, "snobbish" circles.
"It is actually a sensationally refreshing drink served as an ice-cold aperitif, adds a smooth finish to dinner or for pure pleasure, makes a bold statement at teatime," he claims.
"Few wine lovers know that you should serve a sherry ice-cold, at the same temperature as sparkling wine or champagne.
"Pale dry sherry," he says, "is a classic dry, aromatic and refreshing drink that makes a fine aperitif but is also the perfect accompaniment throughout a seafood meal.
"Medium cream sherry is mellow and smooth, with an elusive and underlying sweetness.
"It will serve as an exciting substitute for tea at high teas paired with an assortment of cakes and even cucumber sandwiches, while full cream sherry is the more generous, rich and mouth-filling of the three styles. Its nutty, woody flavours make it a fabulous dessert wine, perfectly complementing heavy puddings, decadent desserts and rich ice-cream.
"Sherry is also an elegant yet simple end to a meal on its own or with a fine cigar."
I hope his enthusiasm spreads. It would be a great pity if our South African sherries faded from the scene. We make really excellent ones.
- I was interested to see that Stellenbosch Vineyards has released its very pleasant Kumkani Sauvignon Blanc 2003 in a screw-cap bottle.
To pander to the traditionalists they've also released the same wine in a bottle with a conventional cork stopper. It might be an interesting experiment for wine-tasting circles to buy a few bottles of each and keep them for some time, tasting them from time to time and comparing the keeping qualities of the cork and screw-cap.
Corks do undeniably present occasional problems, but for many wine lovers the ceremony of drawing a cork is an important part of the experience.
Both packages of Kumkani Sauvignon Blanc retail at about R40 a bottle. That's good value for a wine that won a gold medal at the last Veritas competition.