Veranda

Many Capetonians were excited when the Metropole hotel was spruced up in new livery. Owners Jens Merbt and Steve van der Merwe gave cosmopolitan sheen to inner-city grit by roping in architect Kurt Buss and designer Francois du Plessis.

So clever was the merge of Victorian and Georgian features with modern touches that the boutique hotel now features in the stylish global portfolio of Design Hotels group.

White tables and chairbacks; black lacquer cupboards and silver tiles; smartly funky table accessories and narrow glimpses of Long street activity - all are endearing features in the upper-storey Veranda restaurant.

Young chef Devon Matthews arrived after the restaurant opened. With experience at Jean-Christophe Novelli and Alistair Little's London restaurants on his resumé, his style is seasonal and made from scratch.

It veers towards France and Italy, and plays with Asia. The menu changes for summer and winter, yet our table is more enticed by winter menu starters and desserts than main courses.

From seared prawns with soft seaweed, pineapple and pickled ginger salsa (R45), blue cheese and green onion spring rolls with cranberry syrup (R38) and trio of sashimi (R45, we select two portions of chilli line fish (R37) and gremolata tossed ceps on bruschetta (R40).

They're out of goat's cheese terrine - the chef discovered too late that goats don't produce milk during August.

Chilli line fish works a treat. Kingklip and dorado bites with coriander root, ginger, garlic and medium-heat chilli, glazed in sour-savoury tamarind, lime leaf and soy.

Also good: tasty minced parsley, lemon rind and garlic gremolata drizzled over cep mushrooms (they're not rubbery despite being sautéed from frozen).

We're drinking sparkling water (pricey at R22 per 750ml; Windhoek beer at R14.50) and Terra del Capo pinot grigio (R78). With main courses we move to Nitida semillon (R89).

Both are food-friendly, a general feature of Veranda's wine list with names such as Ridgeback viognier (R145), Kevin Arnold shiraz (R180) and Webersburg cabernet sauvignon (R198). Around four whites and reds come by the glass, including Montaudon Champagne Brut (R65) or Rosé (R85).

Service is efficiently unobtrusive but drags towards the end.

Two servings of classic duck confit (R72); thigh/legs are crisped on the outside; velvet-tender underneath. A baked potato slice uses beef stock instead of the heavier cream version.

The bird lacks definition in flavour terms, yeasty duck fat flavour dominating after a salt-and-spice marinade, rather than Madeira sauciness.

Sirloin steak (R71) served medium-rare, fares better. Green peppercorn sauce covers flaws in the less flavoursome cut, while green beans and rustic-cut garlic potatoes are delicious.

The dish of the day radiates simplicity: two fish cakes with lime aioli (homemade garlic mayo), a subtly moist contrast to crisp chips and assorted mini leaves in vinaigrette (R58).

Avoiding hazelnut and pistachio parfait with raspberry coulis (R32) or chocolate brownie with espresso ice-cream (R30), we take the day's crème brûlée (R30) - orange - and a tarte tatin with cinnamon icecream (R32). The brûlée suffices without wowing, while the upturned apple tart merges mushy apple in sugary texture instead of the intended caramel. It's homely, nevertheless, with vanilla custard.

It turns out that Matthews's day off coincides with our visit, and kitchen activity wasn't as smooth as usual.

I'm a repeat diner, thanks to Veranda's dinner special running until October (any free starter or dessert accompanies any main course). Hence I've witnessed superlative talent from Matthews's dishes previously. This dinner was above ordinary, but fell short of a stellar performance.

Veranda

Restaurant category: city, smart-casual

Address: Metropole Hotel, 38 Long Street, Cape Town. 021 424 7247

Open: Daily for breakfast, lunch 12 - 3pm; dinner 7pm - 11pm

Chef: Devon Matthews

Wine: Small, creative local selection arranged by whites, pinks and reds. Ask for wines by the glass and sparkling list. Mark-ups towards the higher end, but cheaper labels can be found. R35 corkage on wine; R40 sparkling wine.

Vibe: A narrow upstairs space is stylish in minimalist white with colour accents. Art on the walls and cosy window views of city activity. Buddha Bar and Café del Mar lounge music. Cape Town creative industry trendies, couples and hotel guests.

Vegetarian: Yes

Smoking: No

Wheelchairs: Yes

Loos: Imported soap and lotion; video screens and fish tanks for entertainment

Who ate? Four adults

When? fairly busy Wednesday night

Cards: Major

Spend: Three courses excluding drinks and service: R120 - R160

Value: Good on food, especially winter dinner specials

VERDICT

Food: 3.5/6

Wine: 3.5/5