Vin mmx
Sandton Sun, corner Fifth and Alice streets, Sandton
Tel: 011 780 5000
Ratings
Food: ****
Value: ***
Wine: *****
Vibe: (Deck) *****
(Vin) ***
The New Year’s party held on the San Deck at the Sandton Sun, which boasts one of the best views of Jozi’s night lights, was the talk of the town. Tickets, costing about R900, sold quickly (for dinner, drinks and the party) and if you had the money to blow, it would have been well spent. Even the rain didn’t stop the jol – partygoers simply took off their shoes and danced the night away.
The ageing hotel owes its sudden sexiness to a sorely needed sixth- floor revamp that cost R90 million. Much of it was spent no doubt on sustainable green initiatives, such as its carbon emission-free kitchen and a silver roof that breaks down pollutants.
The revamped level has been transformed into a contemporary space that includes the San restaurant, a café-style eatery; the trendy San Bar; the Deck, which besides the incredible sunsets features large fire pits and generous couches; the Market, which sells on-the-go pastries (including sublime doughnuts), sandwiches and coffee; and Vin mmx, a sophisticated grill-style restaurant.
As parents of a six-month-old, fine dining has become a dine-and-dash affair. Never mind, we enjoyed the sunset with champagne on the Deck. Being too windy that night to eat outdoors, we went inside Vin. As the name suggests, Vin mmx (French for wine and Roman numerals for 2010) loves its wine.
Wine is central to its design, with racks taking up wall space and a pillar of bottles as a focal point. So much so, that the wine list is more of a wine bible. There are 72 wines a glass, so you don’t have to commit to a bottle. The list includes wines from around the world – the most pricey import being the Château Margaux, at R18 000. Cough.
But Vin is not only about wine – its fine dining menu changes seasonally, using produce sourced within a 100km radius. Exec chef Garth Shnier is a talent Southern Sun should hold on to – his classically inspired menu is well executed and inspired.
We didn’t want a bottle, so we asked the sommelier for a pairing. My rich and creamy starter of a coconut saffron white lobster bisque with Emmental soufflé was nicely balanced by the Avondale chenin blanc, while my partner’s steak tartar (prepared at the table) was accompanied by his faithful Windhoek Draught.
His mains, a grilled fillet topped with foie gras on a herbed potato rösti, served with a decadent braised oxtail ragout and bordelaise sauce, was elegant and flavoursome.
The baked sea bass on seafood linguine with vanilla bean and passion fruit sauce leapt to my attention. But the 2003 Louis Latour Bourgogne pinot noir was perhaps too ambitious a pairing. Never mind, the fish was super fresh and the seafood linguine tasty. A bit more seafood variety would have been nice, though.
We were tempted by the crêpes Suzette (also prepared at table) and the cheese room with 18 cheeses (and a cheese sommelier nogal) beckoned, but we had no space.
If you haven’t checked out the new Sandton Sun, do. Its restaurants reflect a vigour and passion that’s been sorely missing from hotel kitchens in recent years.