Fair trade and vines in Wellington’s Bovlei

Published Aug 19, 2013

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Cape Town - Bovlei is Bosman country. It’s also a beautiful Wellington valley that presents a picturesque history of Boland activity spanning nearly four centuries. Tranquil it may seem, but these are settings for both innovative and high-tech vini and viticulture, agricultural operations involving a labour force of more than 250.

Eighth generation and eldest son Petrus Bosman took over the reins as MD in 2011. His wife Cara runs the wine club, brothers Pietr Daniel and Jannie Bosman focus on the vine nursery and wine business while sister Antonia handles wine sales and Jannie senior still mentors proceedings.

Five years ago the Adama Workers’ Trust acquired 30 percent of the business. The sprawling 660-hectare estate outside Wellington is dotted with family farmsteads – Lelienfontein, Groenfontein, Naaby, Twyfeling, Hoogenoot and Optenhorst, among others, architectural heirlooms from classic gabled manor houses to early Edwardian homes.

The Bosmans are among the biggest suppliers of “stokkies”, or young vines, in the southern hemisphere. At Lelienfontein I was shown a nursery field ready to be uprooted, sorted and graded, as the vines had been growing for nine months. Every year about 45ha of nursery vineyards are productive, while the remaining 50ha are left fallow.

Ducking out of the rain, we entered a cavernous building where teams of women were working with bunches of dead-looking twigs. On a raised platform vine nursery manager Ivan Thomas and grafter Gawie Plaatjies were skilfully and rapidly making incisions in one twig or rootstock, fitting in the second, stapling the join together, then dipping the wound in wax. These are then planted closely and left to grow.

Because leafroll virus is still a problem at the Cape, Lelienfontein Vine Growers go to enormous lengths to keep their rootstock clean, planting in isolated areas like the Ceres-Karoo.

At their Foundation Vineyard in the Hemel-en-Aarde valley, 47 cultivars are nurtured in pristine conditions. Here contemporary consumer trends are pandered to with clones which will yield good fruit flavours. Along with classic Cape varietals, the Bosmans grow Italian, Spanish and southern Rhone wine grapes, as well as table and raisin grape vines.

“Around the world in one vineyard”, remarks Petrus.

At the Bovlei Community Centre, Mandela Day celebrations were in full swing at the crèche. This Victorian complex includes one of the oldest mission churches in South Africa, with a primary school and clinic . There’s a daycare centre, a karate club, a music school, skills training for youth, a neighbourhood watch, library, sports club and women’s club, along with a home for retired staff members. Bosman Community Developer and Project manager Klaas Morkel elaborated on further services such as debt counselling, drug rehabilitation, and school holiday activities.

 

Captivating ranges from Bosman

Bosman winemaker Corlea Fourie is softly spoken, dedicated and talented. She’s also meticulous, a characteristic which became evident as she took us through a tasting of the two ranges, starting with the Bosman Family Vineyards wines.

After sipping the sprightly all-chenin limited edition Cap Classique, (R200) we moved to one of the stars of the show: Optenhorst chenin blanc 2011 (R180), named after the 60-year-old vineyard from which it is sourced, is outstanding, still fermenting, fresh yet creamy, with luscious apricot, citrus and honey flavours. It will feature at the Nederburg Auction in September.

Equally impressive is Adama White 2012 (R100) a harmonious and classy blend of chenin, chardonnay semillon, viognier and pinot gris, nicely but not overpoweringly oaked.

For the same price, the flagship Adama Red 2010 is a great buy, 70 percent shiraz with mourvèdre, cinsaut, primitivo, and a little viognier. Bosman pinotage 2010 (R200) is both well balanced and juicy, well-crafted from a cultivar that thrives in Wellington.

From an elegant decanter, Corlea poured us samples of Erfenis 2010, the Family Cuvee (R350) which she makes from barrels of wine that excel. It’s the wine that is used to toast the new generation of Bosmans, along with Corlea’s twins and marketing manager Neil Buchner’s young daughter.

The Fairtrade de Bos range was launched last year, handcrafted and traceable, using the best grapes from Walker Bay, Hermon and Wellington. Another superb chenin Sur Lie 2012 is well-priced at R60, rich fruit and minerality in fine balance. There a floral sauvignon blanc and a delicate, elegant unwooded chardonnay (R80) perfect for spring days.

The maiden pinot noir 2012 (R95) is light and fresh in contemporary style, while a merlot and cab complete this captivating range. Look out for these charmers at retailers or e-mail [email protected]. - Weekend Argus

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