New KWV vintages impress

ENTHUSIASTIC: Richard Rowe, head winemaker of The Mentors range, which is likely to attract more interest this weekend with the chilly weather.

ENTHUSIASTIC: Richard Rowe, head winemaker of The Mentors range, which is likely to attract more interest this weekend with the chilly weather.

Published Jun 1, 2011

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While KWV regularly makes business page headlines, its raison d’être – production of many and varied liquor ranges – doesn’t always attract commensurate space.

Asked what comes to mind when the name of this Paarl corporate comes up, most refer to its renowned brandies, listing the five or 10-year-old as the best in the country. Some will mention old favourites like Roodeberg, while those in the know will respond with the comparatively recent addition, The Mentors range. Once discovered, discerning hosts and diners seek these labels when dining out and at boutique wine stores.

When the maiden vintages were launched, the response was rapid and positive. There are about a dozen in the series, housed in heavy dark bottles, sealed with unusual screwcaps and adorned with front labels notable for minimal wording.

The wines, which reflect the combined talents, innovation and enthusiasm of winemakers Richard Rowe and Johan Fourie and brand director Jeff Gradwell attracted numerous awards from local and international challenges last year, and 2011 started in similar style as the second vintages enter the market.

In the mood for something other than conventional chard or chenin? I can recommend the Grenache blanc 2010, a partially oaked, refreshing yet creamy companion for fish and risottos, sourced from Paarl grapes. Grapes from two Elgin vineyards combined to produce the elegant chardonnay (R115), predictably a cool climate, classic, crisp rather than creamy, that spent nine months in oak. It brought home gold from the Concours Mondial at Brussels, will enhance meals, and is sure to keep well.

Another white to try that will complement poultry and meatless fare is the semillon – unoaked, full-flavoured and fruity, sourced from a west coast vineyard near the Olifants river mouth. It makes a great aperitif, too.

Adventurous winemakers are taking on viognier, a difficult grape to deal with, and a few are making pleasing wines that avoid blousiness and perfume overload. This one, from Wellington grapes, is set to enhance Thai and Vietnamese fare, fruity and floral notes balanced by citrus and time in second and third-fill French oak.

With cold fronts following on each other, the Mentors reds are likely to attract more interest this weekend: the 2009 petit verdot will find favour with those looking for a wine of character – this well reflects the quality of the Stellenbosch grapes and their meticulous handling in cellar.

Generously-spiced red meat including traditional fare – think quince bredie – could be paired with the 2009 Canvas, a shiraz with some grenache and a little tannat, that offers New World enjoyment, albeit with high alcohol levels. The Mentors ’09 shiraz upholds Paarl’s reputation as champion area, a potential winner that will partner much venison and lamb this winter, as will the 2009 pinotage, made from Simonsberg and Bottelary grapes – well balanced enough to appeal to those wanting drinkability and others looking for good integration of wood and fruit.

Orchestra, a cab-led Bordeaux-style blend with classic nose and flavours, brought home gold and a regional trophy from the Decanter World Wine Awards earlier this month and will no doubt collect some local medals as well. It’s the cherry on the top of a range that is testament to sound viticultural and cellar practices in pursuit of top quality. - Weekend Argus

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